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Firstly, sorry if this has been asked before, coudn't find the answer.
Some time ago I picked up a reroute kit that was used for a 1.8, I myself have a 1.6. Lately I've been wondering if I really need the thermoswitch when I'm running on a DIYPNP, since I have the blockoff plate without the thread for the thermoswitch.
My "theory" is that the thermoswitch opens/closes (most likely closes) the circuit when the coolant temp is high enough to run the fan, but the Megasquirt already seems to have control over the fan via the ALED or WLED pin. (can't remember which one from the top of my head) Can't I just jumper the wires from the loom side of the connector together and keep the circuit closed at any time and let MS handle the fan control? Or is it not that easy and will the fan constantly run if I wire it this way? Want to clean up some wiring in the engine bay since the bay will be white and black wires don't look that nice in there.. I'm too lazy to do a full wire tuck :P
My idea: (paint professional yo)
Left: stock, Right: My possible solution
Just to be clear; with thermoswitch, I mean this thing (please correct me if it isn't the thermoswitch :S)
Yes that's a thermoswitch. There's only one wire going to it though, when it's grounded the fan relay trips and the fan turns on.
Verify your MS is properly controlling the fan, I've had issues with that before. If it is, you can simply remove it. If not, you'll want to either fix the MS, or find a way to incorporate the stock thermoswitch and wiring back into your setup.
just unplug it. if you jump it, the fan will always been running.
Originally Posted by curly
Yes that's a thermoswitch. There's only one wire going to it though, when it's grounded the fan relay trips and the fan turns on.
Verify your MS is properly controlling the fan, I've had issues with that before. If it is, you can simply remove it. If not, you'll want to either fix the MS, or find a way to incorporate the stock thermoswitch and wiring back into your setup.
Okay thanks! Engine and loom have been separated for quite some weeks now so this was from the top of my head. I won't be able to test it because of that but if it doesn't work when I put it back together I'd rather change some things in the megasquirt than to use the thermoswitch again. Saves me having to buy a tap and drilling & tapping the blockoff plate as well
EDIT: I remember the relay clicking when I was testing the ALED/WLED output on the MS (back when my fan stopped working for a day or so), so I guess that guarantees that the MS is properly controlling the fans right?
Probably, the easiest thing would be to verify the fan output is grounded when turned on in test mode, and that there is continuity from there to the fan relay. Or just check for voltage at the fan wires when you test the output.
Probably, the easiest thing would be to verify the fan output is grounded when turned on in test mode, and that there is continuity from there to the fan relay. Or just check for voltage at the fan wires when you test the output.
Well I can't test it right now as the car is hundreds of pieces. A friend of mine is in need of a thermoswitch, so therefor I was wondering mine would work without one. The fan got power when the test mode was enabled, as the fan turned on and the relay clicked. The switch was plugged in though, but the coolant wouldn't have been warm enough to "activate" it. (if it even works that way)
Bottom line is: Will it be able to work without the thermoswitch and/or will I be able to make it work without it?
02-26-2017, 01:06 PM
Thermoswitch removal
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