flydaddyskidz

iTrader: (4)

Ordered MS kit today. I was going to get MSPNP or Braineack unit, but this will help me enjoy the complete MS experience. Still saving for FI, that will be next.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Details of order?

flydaddyskidz

iTrader: (4)

My Order listed below. Wideband to follow when build is almost complete. Any preferences on best Wideband for the buck. Also suggestions on a decent low cost soldering iron?

1 x PCBv3 and v2.2 -- Relay Control 'ModKit' (VTEC, TVIS, Fans
Option's $5.00

1 x PCBv3 and v2.2 -- Pullup Resistors 'ModKit'
Option's $1.60

1 x MegaSquirt Tuning Cable (DB9 Straight Thru)
Option's $5.50

1 x Lead Bending Tool
Option's $5.50

1 x MegaSquirt-I Programmable EFI System PCB3.0 - UnAssembled Kit
Option's $187.00

1 x JimStim v1.4 MegaSquirt Stimulator w/ Wheel Simulator -Unassembl
Option's $59.00

1 x PCBv3 -- PWM IAC Valve Control (TIP120) 'Mod-Kit'
Option's $7.00

1 x PCBv3 and v2.2 -- Boost Control Mod-Kit
Option's $7.00

1 x GM Open Element IAT Sensor with Pigtail
Option's $22.25

1 x 3/8" NPT Aluminum Weld-On Bung for IAT or CLT Sensor
Option's $9.00

1 x 12' MegaSquirt Wiring Harness (MS1 / MS2 Ready)
Option's $65.00

1 x EBC Electronic Boost Control Solenoid Kit
Option's $38.00

1 x USB to Serial Adapter - Works with MegaTune!
Option's $20.00

1 x Jumper 10-Pack
Option's $7.00




Billing Information

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

One thing I'd recommend is that you cancel the pre-made wiring harness, and instead buy the raw wire bundle, either the 23" version or the 12' version depending on your needs. I say this because the pre-made harness has some wires in places that are not relevant to a Miata (such as a piece of coax on the pin we use for CKP) and some other wires (such as the IAC wires) are duplicated and not properly labeled. The MS kit already comes with a DB37 connector, so by doing it yourself you'll save some frustration.

As to soldering irons, it's been about 15 years since I've bought one, which is because I tend to buy expensive (and nice) irons.

For a first-time buyer who's going to be doing something as complicated as an MS, I'd suggest the Weller WES51. It's not a super-exotic unit, but it covers all the basics. It's ESD-safe (3-wire with grounded iron), has a good power control, and easily replaceable tips. The tip is just about the single most important part of choosing a good iron, and the place where the most variance in quality exists.

This unit uses the same ET-series tips as its more expensive cousins, and they are super high-quality. A good tip will last for years if properly cared for. A cheap tip won't even last a day. Also, there are a huge variety to choose from for different jobs, another thing you don't get with lesser irons: ET Series tips. The iron comes with the ETA tip, which is a good general-purpose tip for through-hole work.

If you want to go cheaper, the Weller WLC-100 iron can usually be had for around $50. It's the same basic design, but with an ungrounded iron and a much cheaper pencil and tip. I personally don't like this one, but I'm kind of spoiled.


Other things to have would be a spool of fine-diameter solder. I typically use .025", though it's hard to find outside of specialty shops. For your purposes, .032" will be fine, and it's available at Radio Shack as catalog # 64-005. Don't get distracted with "high tech" solders, silver-bearing solders, etc. Plain ole' 60/40 rosin-core is still the best for homebrew use.

You'll want to pick up a coil of desoldering braid. When you need to unsolder a part, or just clean up a blob of excess solder, you put this stuff between the tip and the board and soaks up the molten solder like a sponge. Getting to the point where you can clean out through-holes with it takes some practice, but it's still my preferred method over vacuum-style irons for general-purpose work.

Lastly, have a good pair of dikes, a good needle-nose pliers, and a good wire stripper. All should be on the small side of what you'd normally find lying around. I have about a half-dozen dikes for different sorts of work, and the ones I use for circuit board work have jaws that are only about 1/4" deep. They're great for close-in work when trimming leads and such.

flydaddyskidz

iTrader: (4)

I will be placing an order the soldering iron you recommended Weller WES51.\

All the parts for the MS are already on their way. I will call DIY to see if I can exchange pre-made harness for the wire bundle.

Also, what about a knock sensor? is it neccessary? And I would appreciate your input (or anyone else's) on which wideband is the best bang for the buck. Thx


Update: Soldering Iron, Desoldering Braid Now Ordered

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Don't sweat the wiring then. You can modify the one you ordered to work.

Wideband... I previously had an AEM, I now run an LC-1 w/ XD-16. The most expensive of the lot, but I like it. If you want cheap, build a JAW.

Knock... The KnockSenseMS has no RPM-based sensitivity, so it false triggers a lot unless you adjust it rather aggressively. I wish there was something better, but I've not found it.

booch

iTrader: (2)

if you do get the wiring harness double check all the pins and the wires with a meter. on mine, 2 pairs of wires (for the injectors) were switched, i assume by mistake. either that or all the wiring diagrams on this site are backwards (which i doubt).

yertnamreg1218

Knock sense MS sucks, don't buy it. Wiring directly to the DB37 also sucks, I would recommend you check this out (SHAMLESS PLUG WARNING!)

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t19432/

I'm working on an adapterboard very similar to MSPNP, but with alot of extra functionality. Go to the last page of that thread for the latest details. If you are willing to wait a month or two. This product will greatly simplify your installation, give you more functionality, and not to mention you'll be helping a graduating computer engineer eat. First boards should be out at the end of June.