Turbobarber

iTrader: (2)

Epic. Not really... I just enabled it after having it turned off for quite some time for tuning purposes....

Was driving to work and noticed slight surging while in the fuel cut... 0% throttle - where the FUbar is this power coming from?? During the drive I considered it may be methanol residue in the charge pipe being drawn in and burned - not the case... Never had that happen before anyway.


So - checking the log you can see there is chirps of injector cycling during the fuel cut. I did a brief search on this and came up with nothing on it.

I can't think of what would over ride the fuel cut and blip in PW to the injectors... ?? The screen shot shows these blips during decel.



Corrupt tune? Do I need to reflash?
Some stupid setting I over looked?



*** Well evidently the .msl I logged is too big to upload so I'll have to make another if you all would like to see a log of this issue***

Yet another FaiL



CurrentTune.msq

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

change the RPM to above 1700

change the delay to 2 seconds...not .2.

change the kPa lower than to 30Kpa

Turbobarber

iTrader: (2)

hrm. None of those settings were a problem before.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

what was the TP reading on that log? could be noise putting the TP position above your threshold number of 0.5%.

I notice that on your log shown, the decel indicator reads NO, does it read Y when there's no blip in the PW?

Turbobarber

iTrader: (2)

no... was hard pressed to find it say Decel:Y appears randomly in the log where the pedal is sharply lifted and the tps dot is within range of the threshold.

However the settings in accel wizard for Decel which appear to be what drives the Decel indicator do not mingle with the over run fuel cut. It has it's own parameters to follow and should override all else.

I'm still stumped on this for the moment.

Im at work right now but on the way home I'll log again with some adjusted settings but I expect no difference.

P.S. <*()*> I don't think noise is the issue but it's likely I could be very wrong here. Tpsdot does move around a little (its graph is in the screen shot) but not even close to hitting the threshold and TPSaccel is also shown the SS which shows there is no change resulting from the tpsdot.... Given that 0.5% is my ORFC cut off tps% - it's possible is .5% worth of noise so I'm raising that limit to .8% which would mean that I've gotten some additional noise in the tps signal since last I used the ORFC.

Turbobarber

iTrader: (2)

Close: I would have liked to have more to say; problem solved - increased noise in the tps.

Solution: Raised cut off from .5% to .8%

Current settings:




On another note: I've been reading about high idle and various ways to deal with it.

I don't have/don't want to use the IAC. Any one have any quick suggestions to help maintain a lower idle once warmed up?

Car idles around 1k cold, then 1.35k~~ warm. I'd like to try to close the gap between cold start and warm idle.

spark tables for idle maybe? thought about playing with the cold advance some..

Oh - yes the car idles at 1k because I adjusted the idle to this speed - IAC quit while I had stock ECU still in and I was using the A/C - so this kept the a/c from stalling the car.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

stop being a hard ***, learn how to tune the idle settings correctly and use the IAC.

Turbobarber

iTrader: (2)

You're buying me a new one?

** sorry :/

I have both hands full of other things to spend money on - besides the car. Not to mention the 50 mile long list of stuff the car needs that doesn't even get close to the IAC. Speakers just came due and I've been putting off replacing my passenger window motor but it's about done for.. My dvd player died a few months back, tires are past due, ect. ect.

I would just like the car to idle better as is.

As for learning, I'll be sure to try and do some of that since I clearly haven't learned anything yet. :(

Thanks for the useful info tho..

turotufas

iTrader: (7)

I feel you on that struggle James. Glad to see you're keeping your car!

Oh. When I get my Honda intake on I won't be needing my IAC. I'll let you know.

Turbobarber

iTrader: (2)

For the moment - Don't really want to have to write up a whole new owners manual for the car to sell it lol

I think my headlights are the real killer - w/o the part number you'd have to replace the whole set.

Honda intake?? Don't remember you mentioning that last we spoke. What are you upto now? lol

You got a tig!?


Hells yea on the IAC - I'll put her to good use!

How's the body work comin?

turotufas

iTrader: (7)

Primered! Haha. My friends brother in law (proffesional does side work for friends/family) was going to paint it this weekend but its getting cold so I might have to hold of on a painting it. Gonna look like crap for a little bit but it'll be fast, I hope.

I'm going to stop by soon. Did you hear me in that red Charger Monday when I passed by the shop? Haha.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

use the honda idle valve.

Turbobarber

iTrader: (2)

Lol that was you? I heard someone but all I saw was the red charger :P

C`mon by man - today you might see me outside working on some wiring in the trunk if business is slow...

Trying to get my water pumps working in best possible order. I seem to be having alot of noise interference issues(DVC-30 controller may have also been afflicted by noise) so we'll see... I just ran direct battery lines +/- to the controller, 12 gauge wire so we'll see if that offers an improvement over having previously ground it on the body by the radio.

Also cleaned up some other grounds, one left to deal with - the one that mounts to the support beam between the rear end and the transmission... It's really nasty looking and I'm hoping fixing it will be the final solution to all my electrical problems - since all the rest I know of have been cleaned/rewired.