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07-26-2009, 11:42 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
I am: Justin
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hillsborough, NC
Posts: 269
Total Props: 0
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I just wrote some code that adds a fast idle input. You can connect the AC or blower inputs to it. When the input goes low, it changes the idle target to the fast idle speed. It works on the stim, but the battery on my laptop died before I got a chance to test it on the car.
Do you think I'd be better off raising the idle speed, or increasing the minimum dc?
I don't have AC, and I've never actually tried to use the heater in my car (with the MS). My car idles fine. I'm just doing this for you guys.
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92 Miata STS #7 using AFM (no MAP sensor) and custom code in OEM case (custom adapter board). Interfaced with atmega328 for emissions and CEL control.
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07-27-2009, 01:01 AM
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#10
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Junior Member
I am: Justin
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hillsborough, NC
Posts: 269
Total Props: 0
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I've been running a slightly modified version of hr_10g on my car for a while, so that's what I used. It would be simple to port it to 11c2 or whatever everybody runs here.
I made another change that seemed to resolve the idle droop issue on my car (stalls when coming to a stop). I have both TPS inputs going to the cpu (TPS 1N and 2L). The cpu artificially sets the tps values:
0v = no throttle
2.5v = partial throttle
5v = full throttle
I need to do more testing though.
I'll go ahead and play around with different minimum DC steps, and see how it handles heater + headlights, then I'll post a firmware for you guys to try.
If you have any other ideas, let me know!
PS What inputs do you recommend? My car is not setup like everybody elses, so I'm not sure what inputs you guys have leftover.
__________________
92 Miata STS #7 using AFM (no MAP sensor) and custom code in OEM case (custom adapter board). Interfaced with atmega328 for emissions and CEL control.
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07-27-2009, 03:49 AM
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#11
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Newb
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 10
Total Props: 0
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I'm currently using 2 solenoids in parallel, it provides just enough air flow but the rpm raise slowly with these solenoids while the A/C will drop the rpm immediately.
I then get a delay circuit and put it in between the solenoid and the A/C compresser. So I switch on the A/C, then the solenoid get powered immediately, the delay circuit will provide power to the A/C compresser after 2 second.
So the rpm will first raise up to 1200rpm slowly and then drop to 950rpm.
However sometimes in very hot condition, the air provided by 2 solenoids is still not enough to maintain a stable idle. Since the resistance made by the compressor is somehow increased with temperature.
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07-27-2009, 03:28 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
I am: Justin
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hillsborough, NC
Posts: 269
Total Props: 0
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The code has been tested, and I moved it over to a "clean" version of hr_10g (attached). At this point, all it does it wait for JS4 to go low, and it changes the idle speed to whatever you have set for your Fast Idle Speed RPM.
I tested turning on headlights & blower at the same time, and it was able to prevent a stall every time. The idleDC increases quickly and catches it. The downside is that when you turn the A/C off, the idleDC drops quickly, and temporarily increases your idle speed (with my tune, at least).
I haven't messed around with changing the minimum DC yet. It would be a bit more complicated, but I will do it next week. I'm not sure it's necessary, since the idleDC increases quickly on it's own due to the increased idle setpoint... but we'll see.
For testing, I wired it to a switch. You'll want to wire it to the A/C input (1Q) or the blower input (1S). Both of those go low when switched on, and are 12v while off. So you'll need to use a voltage divider to keep it below 5v.
I'm sure there is a "smoother" way to do this. In fact... it might work better in open loop mode. But I like to start with the simple things first
Joe - Feel free to split this thread up if you want. This really doesn't have anything to do with the purge solenoid, although we both have the same final goal in mind.
__________________
92 Miata STS #7 using AFM (no MAP sensor) and custom code in OEM case (custom adapter board). Interfaced with atmega328 for emissions and CEL control.
Last edited by JustinHoMi; 07-27-2009 at 04:36 PM..
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07-28-2009, 11:39 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
I am: Your faaatheeerrrr
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Falls Church, VA
Posts: 1,367
Total Props: 14
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Am I understanding correctly that some of you are looking for a more suitable solenoid? I know older Toyotas used A/C idle up solenoids that they sometimes refer to as a VSV (vacuum switching valve). Don't know if they'd work any better than our purge solenoids, but at least they were originally used for our intended purpose. I don't think they still make the same old part for my 25-y.o. 4runner but some of the Toyota truck guys report successful replacement with Toyota part number 88690-32280, which is originally for a Camry. You can buy that one from a dealer (Jay Marks out of Houston is a good outfit) or just try pulling one from a bone yard, should be plenty of them in random Toyotas.
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Black 94 A-pkg, Koni 450/300, XP10/8, 6ULs & RS2s, HDHCHT. DIY MS3 (parallel), RX-7 550s, LC-1, COPs. Mishimoto radiator, M-tuned reroute. In a box: ABSURDflow, GT2860RS, lots of TiAL bling, 6-spd, ACT XT, '01 motor, forged internals.
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08-03-2009, 10:40 PM
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