MS2 1.8 Starts, Runs, Revs. What do I do from here? Wont idle. Runs Lean.
07-06-2012, 07:15 PM
#1
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MS2 1.8 Starts, Runs, Revs. What do I do from here? Wont idle. Runs Lean.
I dropped a 1.8 with a lightly ported and polished BP4W NB head and 315cc injectors (FI coming soon).
It starts and runs. It doesn't run that well. It wont idle by itself. It runs wicked lean.
I'll post a couple logs for you folks to look at if they are useful.
What do I do? Where do I go from here?
Big thanks to Reverant for his help and enhanced ms2 design.
I had a good timing trying to get the AFRs to report properly from the LC1. The LC1 was set to something funky, and kept showing straight 7.x and no EGO Correction. Fixed that.
It starts and runs. It doesn't run that well. It wont idle by itself. It runs wicked lean.
I'll post a couple logs for you folks to look at if they are useful.
What do I do? Where do I go from here?
Big thanks to Reverant for his help and enhanced ms2 design.
I had a good timing trying to get the AFRs to report properly from the LC1. The LC1 was set to something funky, and kept showing straight 7.x and no EGO Correction. Fixed that.
Last edited by Mysticle31; 07-11-2012 at 02:04 AM.
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07-07-2012, 03:21 AM
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I dropped a 1.8 with a lightly ported and polished BP4W NB head and 315cc injectors (FI coming soon).
It starts and runs. It doesn't run that well. It wont idle by itself. It runs wicked rich.
I'll post a couple logs for you folks to look at if they are useful.
What do I do? Where do I go from here?
Big thanks to Reverant for his help and enhanced ms2 design.
I had a good timing trying to get the AFRs to report properly from the LC1. The LC1 was set to something funky, and kept showing straight 7.x and no EGO Correction. Fixed that.
It starts and runs. It doesn't run that well. It wont idle by itself. It runs wicked rich.
I'll post a couple logs for you folks to look at if they are useful.
What do I do? Where do I go from here?
Big thanks to Reverant for his help and enhanced ms2 design.
I had a good timing trying to get the AFRs to report properly from the LC1. The LC1 was set to something funky, and kept showing straight 7.x and no EGO Correction. Fixed that.
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07-08-2012, 06:27 PM
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As it sits right now.
Engine:
95 1.8 Block, stock pistons with polished tops, forged rods
NB BP4W Head with light Port'n'Polish and ground valves, NA Intake modified to fit NB head
315cc injectors
JR Header currently unbolted to exhaust. WB02 is after the collector area of the header reading all 4 cylinders.
Car:
The engine is in a 1990 Miata (it's an early car). I'm running 1.8 coils, 1.8 TB (with 1.8 ISV and 1.8 TPS), 1.8 Water temp sensor.
Electrical:
I ran two wires and pulled the 1.6 fuel injection connector (4 wire), re-pinned it and plugged it into the 1.8 harness (6 wire).
I wired the IAT directly to the MS2.
Knock sensor is wired directly to the MS2 and located in the factory NB position (the hole for it was there on the NA blcok under some grease, found it after the jetwash)
For the coils I gutted and jumped the 1.6 ignitor and pluged it in to the factory harness. I re-pinned the 1.6 harness to plug into the 1.8 coil harness and plugged her in.
Engine:
95 1.8 Block, stock pistons with polished tops, forged rods
NB BP4W Head with light Port'n'Polish and ground valves, NA Intake modified to fit NB head
315cc injectors
JR Header currently unbolted to exhaust. WB02 is after the collector area of the header reading all 4 cylinders.
Car:
The engine is in a 1990 Miata (it's an early car). I'm running 1.8 coils, 1.8 TB (with 1.8 ISV and 1.8 TPS), 1.8 Water temp sensor.
Electrical:
I ran two wires and pulled the 1.6 fuel injection connector (4 wire), re-pinned it and plugged it into the 1.8 harness (6 wire).
I wired the IAT directly to the MS2.
Knock sensor is wired directly to the MS2 and located in the factory NB position (the hole for it was there on the NA blcok under some grease, found it after the jetwash)
For the coils I gutted and jumped the 1.6 ignitor and pluged it in to the factory harness. I re-pinned the 1.6 harness to plug into the 1.8 coil harness and plugged her in.
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07-09-2012, 02:31 AM
#9
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They are wired for full sequential injection. I will measure the resistance when I get up there. It's a 60 or so mile drive to my buddies shop, any other ideas?
The injectors came from a car that was running and driving on a stock 1.8 1996 ECU, so they're the same as that.
The injectors came from a car that was running and driving on a stock 1.8 1996 ECU, so they're the same as that.
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07-09-2012, 03:57 AM
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Perform a full test mode on both the injectors and coils to make sure they all work correctly. The coil test is fairly easy to do; to do the injector test, disconnect all injectors and replace the injector you want to test with a 12V tester probe (the ones that have a small light bulb in them), and puch in the following values in the test mode window:
Test mode: Injectors
Output Interval: 50
Injector channel to test: Inj1 (=cyl1; Inj2=Cyl3; Inj3=Cyl4; Inj4=Cyl2)
Pulsewidth: 25
Total number of injections: 12345
The light bulb should glow each time you perform the test for each injector. When checking one injector, check all the others as well to make sure there is no short between any of the injector wires.
Test mode: Injectors
Output Interval: 50
Injector channel to test: Inj1 (=cyl1; Inj2=Cyl3; Inj3=Cyl4; Inj4=Cyl2)
Pulsewidth: 25
Total number of injections: 12345
The light bulb should glow each time you perform the test for each injector. When checking one injector, check all the others as well to make sure there is no short between any of the injector wires.
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07-10-2012, 02:56 PM
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While I was hoping to find a problem, I didnt. No shorts. All injectors fire independently of one another and at the correct time. Cyl1 = Inj1, Cyl2 = Inj4, Cyl3=Inj2, Cyl4=Inj3
Resistance of the injectors is 14.2 ohms.
TPS is stable.
Resistance of the injectors is 14.2 ohms.
TPS is stable.
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07-10-2012, 03:07 PM
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Will it idle better if you add fuel in the idle region?
Also, does it idle at all if you open up the idle valve through the idle valve test mode? Enter 45 in "iac steps" then select "On" and keep the home/run selection to "run". If it idles a little better with 45, add some more.
Also, does it idle at all if you open up the idle valve through the idle valve test mode? Enter 45 in "iac steps" then select "On" and keep the home/run selection to "run". If it idles a little better with 45, add some more.
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07-10-2012, 03:13 PM
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I played with the idle controls the other day. I got it to do this.
not touching the throttle body it will rev, try and stall, catch itself, rev, try and stall, catch itself, and rev.
not touching the throttle body it will rev, try and stall, catch itself, rev, try and stall, catch itself, and rev.
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07-10-2012, 03:16 PM
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I'll add a new condition to idling. It idles while cold. Warm it up and it will not catch anymore and die.
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07-10-2012, 03:30 PM
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I'll add a new condition to idling. It idles while cold. Warm it up and it will not catch anymore and die.
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07-10-2012, 03:51 PM
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I've gathered a couple of logs playing around.
It seems to idle ok now. The ISV duty cycle might be a little high.
My buddy says the pulse width seems high.
I was introducing vacuum leaks to see how it would lean out.
Its good enough now where I think I can drive it. Maybe VEAnylize can figure something out.
It seems to idle ok now. The ISV duty cycle might be a little high.
My buddy says the pulse width seems high.
I was introducing vacuum leaks to see how it would lean out.
Its good enough now where I think I can drive it. Maybe VEAnylize can figure something out.
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