Hey guys, I have a 95 N/A, I'm prepping for forced induction, and have a few questions. I finished building a DIYPNP and got her started today, but I had to open the idle adjustment screw about 3 full turns to get it to idle. It idled very rich, but it did idle and that's a big step for me. I am using the maps downloaded from the DIY site, and am trying to learn how to adjust them, but have not made any changes thus far. The megamanual said that if it tries to start then stalls, check the ASE percentage, and it looks fine. Is it normal to have to adjust the idle screw so much? It runs just fine with the stock ECU. Thanks in advance!

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put the idle screw back to exact where it was before.

Already done. I've been only running on the MS when sitting in the garage learning/tinkering. So I take it that's NOT normal. With the idle at it's normal position, I have to keep my foot on the throttle to get it to start. Seems to not be getting enough air. Should I be looking at the AFR tables or is there a setting I might be overlooking? I did change the fuel calculator to reflect 1839 cc's, but left it on 8 cyl. Changing it to 4 made it WAY too rich.

I didn't know that diesels had throttles.

This thread might help you . . . Timing at idle - requesting some help.

Try a search next time. Works pretty well.

Thanks Hornet, I guess I wasn't searching the right keywords. I hadn't read that thread before, and I try not to post anything without searching first, I know how annoying it can be answering the same question over and over again.

I'll give it another shot tomorrow.

Still no luck. Seems to want to idle at 4-500 no matter what I change. I referenced the other thread, but I don't have some of the options available on tunerstudio that the procedure calls for. Is there a new procedure for the new release? Here are my current settings, Not sure if there is anything glaringly wrong. Another thread said that a good base is to have a Large I, small P and D at 0%. When I tried that, it wouldn't idle above 300 rpm.

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I wouldn't expect the car to idle with those settings.

please look through this thread: Idle tuning instructions sticky request

If you're just starting out with the MS2 I'd strongly consider using PWM warmup for your idle control instead of closed-loop PWM. Warmup-only is a lot easier to get running at first, and once you get those settings working you can use them as a base for you closed-loop settings.

EDIT: Your valve duty % values do seem really weird. I'm running close 28.1 to open 50 on my 95.

Hoo boy that needs work

I agree, start out with PWM warmup and determine the correct values for your idle valve. Your max value is way less than my min value! How did they stray so far from the original values? Might be better to start from scratch with the stock DIYAutotune map.

Odd, I'm using the DIYautotune map. ???

Are you sure? The base map I have for the 95 DIYPNP runs PWM warmup and not closed loop.

It's the one, but I changed it to closed loop after reading some threads on setting idle. I reloaded the base map this evening and only had to make a few small changes to the idle PWM duty table to get it idling at the desired 850 rpm. Spent most of the day toying with a short in my cooling fan, so I did not get nearly as much accomplished as I hoped.

I tried to find the duty max and min using the idle test, but everytime I turn it on it jumps to around 1900 rpm.

I'm working on finding the Min/Max according to your instructions, so just to verify, I need to enable IAC test while in PWM warmup mode, then open the Idle PWM duty table and corresponding to the coolant temp, drag the target up or down until the rpm does not change when I enable the test?

no, you combined two different methods.

either use test mode and simply plug in the duty cycle numbers up and down to test.

OR use the warm up table and drag the duty cycle numbers up and down to test.

essentially you want to know the min and max duty cycle range that the valve operates. For example, mine works between 25-62% duty and will give around 700-2500RPM