Radiator fan always on - driver side
11-30-2015, 10:41 AM
#21
I verified that a led is hooked up to fan but even with that out put turned completely off the fan runs all the time. It was working when I got the car running again about a month ago (for the first time in 3 yrs) so I know that it can work.
I believe at this point it something in the miata maybe a fault with the ac or something that is telling it to be on all the time.
If all else fails I might wire the aled directly to fan replay and take the ac switch out of the fan loop.
Running out of ideas.
I believe at this point it something in the miata maybe a fault with the ac or something that is telling it to be on all the time.
If all else fails I might wire the aled directly to fan replay and take the ac switch out of the fan loop.
Running out of ideas.
Last edited by 90 Turbo; 11-30-2015 at 01:03 PM.
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11-30-2015, 10:53 AM
#22
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it's not the ac switch.
there's only two ways the cooling fan is going to run in stock form: 1. the thermoswitch 2. the a/c relay is triggered.
if you supect it's the a/c switch, then im assuming your a/c fan and a/c compressor is also running 100% of the time -- but if that were the case I'm assuming you'd have mentioned it.
here's what I'd do to narrow things down:
unplug the thermoswitch. It's possible it failed open.
unplug/replace the fan relay. It's possible it failed open.
Check TFA in the diagnostics box. With the car off, check to see if TFA is grounded. If it is, unplug the ECU and see if it goes away. If it does, it's your ECU. This could be a failed component on the microsquirt, or it could be bad jumpers, or bridge connections due to solder joints or something.
be smart about this.
there's only two ways the cooling fan is going to run in stock form: 1. the thermoswitch 2. the a/c relay is triggered.
if you supect it's the a/c switch, then im assuming your a/c fan and a/c compressor is also running 100% of the time -- but if that were the case I'm assuming you'd have mentioned it.
here's what I'd do to narrow things down:
unplug the thermoswitch. It's possible it failed open.
unplug/replace the fan relay. It's possible it failed open.
Check TFA in the diagnostics box. With the car off, check to see if TFA is grounded. If it is, unplug the ECU and see if it goes away. If it does, it's your ECU. This could be a failed component on the microsquirt, or it could be bad jumpers, or bridge connections due to solder joints or something.
be smart about this.
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11-30-2015, 01:01 PM
#23
My ac is not currently working but I will get out a multi meter and see if its telling it to work.
The relay is fine I checked it with a multi meter and the relay is being told to open (small terminals have power telling the relay to open).
I truly appreciate the advice and I will get to work on it.
OP did yours ever get fixed?
The relay is fine I checked it with a multi meter and the relay is being told to open (small terminals have power telling the relay to open).
I truly appreciate the advice and I will get to work on it.
OP did yours ever get fixed?
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11-30-2015, 02:50 PM
#24
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My MS is a Braineack built dynpnp, it has always done this regardless of the firmware updates and base maps I load on it.
When you said "If you have WLED going straight to 1L, I just don't see how this could be happening." Where you referring to this part of the board?
When you said "If you have WLED going straight to 1L, I just don't see how this could be happening." Where you referring to this part of the board?
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11-30-2015, 06:30 PM
#27
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well is 1L going anywhere? from the connector board to mainboard?
early builds I used pa0 or pe1 or pt7 or pt6 and used the relays on the mainboard instead of aled or wled directly.
who was the original owner?
Sorry 1R is 90-93 and 1L is 94-95. Trying to deal with two people are once.
I see a wire going into it in that pic and going under the microsquirt module. relay 3 maybe?
definitely an early build since the a/c switch is not tied into the MS to control a/c idle up.
early builds I used pa0 or pe1 or pt7 or pt6 and used the relays on the mainboard instead of aled or wled directly.
who was the original owner?
Sorry 1R is 90-93 and 1L is 94-95. Trying to deal with two people are once.
I see a wire going into it in that pic and going under the microsquirt module. relay 3 maybe?
definitely an early build since the a/c switch is not tied into the MS to control a/c idle up.
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11-30-2015, 06:35 PM
#28
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Nope, just what appears to be a cut wire. I did have a friend "help" me rewire the MS since it was originally for a 91-93 Miata. My friend did have a 93 fully megasquirted(first gen I think) and running. I figured he knew a lot more than I, so I didn't double check his work.
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11-30-2015, 07:16 PM
#30
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The original owner went by superstreet or something similar to that. He didn't last long on the forums since he didn't search and had thin skin. But he live in the same town as I and I bought his pieced together turbo kit.
1L is going to pa0.
My car doesn't have ac or power steering.
1L is going to pa0.
My car doesn't have ac or power steering.
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12-01-2015, 12:55 PM
#34
I am glad you got it fixed Gregor,
I am still working on it.
I tested yesterday and I can turn the unjumped wled on and off but the ald aled is always ohm testing as ground when power is on to the diypnp.
Unpluging the ecu does shut off the fan.
I have unplugged the thermostat on the front water neck and plugged it in.
Would it have anything to do with Power steering plug or ac plug not being attached?
Could changing the resistor for the Vvt circuit to 5v effect anything? I did that around the time this started happening.
Cant pin point when it started I could have not noticed for while but I know it was working a month ago.
Would anyone agree moving the R1 jumper from ALD to WLD might fix the issue?
I am still working on it.
I tested yesterday and I can turn the unjumped wled on and off but the ald aled is always ohm testing as ground when power is on to the diypnp.
Unpluging the ecu does shut off the fan.
I have unplugged the thermostat on the front water neck and plugged it in.
Would it have anything to do with Power steering plug or ac plug not being attached?
Could changing the resistor for the Vvt circuit to 5v effect anything? I did that around the time this started happening.
Cant pin point when it started I could have not noticed for while but I know it was working a month ago.
Would anyone agree moving the R1 jumper from ALD to WLD might fix the issue?
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12-01-2015, 02:32 PM
#36
No diypnp is not controlling vvt.
Have vvtunner. There was a signal wire to the diypnp for a while but I had interference in diypnp. So I changed the resistor to 5v circuit as detailed in vvtunner instructions. Still was interference so I changed power sources for vvtunner.
Now they are not connected to each other at all. 1.6 Cas is running diypnp. Cam and crank sensor running vvtunner.
I will get the exact change when I get back to real computer on phone now.
Have vvtunner. There was a signal wire to the diypnp for a while but I had interference in diypnp. So I changed the resistor to 5v circuit as detailed in vvtunner instructions. Still was interference so I changed power sources for vvtunner.
Now they are not connected to each other at all. 1.6 Cas is running diypnp. Cam and crank sensor running vvtunner.
I will get the exact change when I get back to real computer on phone now.
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12-01-2015, 02:53 PM
#37
Here are changes made to diypnp:
VVTuner
If you have swapped in a VVT motor from a '01-'05 Miata and wire the sensors directly to the DIYPNP, sharing them with the VVTuner (instead of using pass through mode), connect the R3 resistor in the 5 volt position instead of the 12 volt. Using the 12 volt may cause sync problems.
VVTuner
If you have swapped in a VVT motor from a '01-'05 Miata and wire the sensors directly to the DIYPNP, sharing them with the VVTuner (instead of using pass through mode), connect the R3 resistor in the 5 volt position instead of the 12 volt. Using the 12 volt may cause sync problems.
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