Running way hot after R7 delete
11-21-2007, 01:16 PM
#1
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Running way hot after R7 delete
Are there any certain EasyTherm therm settings that need to be used when you remove R7 on the megasquirt? Before I was using the settings from the EasyTherm thread and the MS CLT was about 10-20 degrees off. (on the Cool Side) Now I have the problem where my megasquirt CLT seems to be spot on but the OEM sensor thinks things are cold. So now fans aren't coming on and as a result I had a nice little bit of coolant leakage today. (wonder if that's going to cause me some problems down the line now... hmmm)
Anyway, any clues?
Anyway, any clues?
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11-21-2007, 01:23 PM
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removing the resistor shouldn't have done anything to effect when the fans switch on. Since the ECU controls the switch, and you removed a resistor that was actually altering the signal, all should be as it was now.
idle the car and wait for them to turn on, they should come on close to 210, something like that.
idle the car and wait for them to turn on, they should come on close to 210, something like that.
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11-21-2007, 01:42 PM
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Yeah I know that it wouldn't affect the point at which fans would come on, what I'm wondering is if there's anything around removing that resistor or EasyTherm settings that would cause the ECU to see the temp as lower than it is and as a result not kick on the fans (so even though the MS is reading 214 or what have you, the ECU is seeing 180 or something where the fans wouldn't be switching on)
If that makes sense. I seem to recall AussieDriver or someone mentioning that when you piggy back on the CLT wire it affects both readings if you don't do the right things.
If that makes sense. I seem to recall AussieDriver or someone mentioning that when you piggy back on the CLT wire it affects both readings if you don't do the right things.
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11-21-2007, 01:55 PM
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Hmmm, yeah it used to do that. I wanna say I fixed that with EasyTherm - but I could be totally off there. Do you still have to futz with EasyTherm when you remove R7? I may just need to go back to stock MSnS-E if not since they're certainly futzed with.
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11-21-2007, 01:57 PM
#7
When you perform the easytherm update did you combine the defaults of the GM AIT and RX7 CLT?
You should compile the created .s19 and .inc files into the MSNSE firmware and upload that to your megasquirt.
The reason you remove R7 is because you are sharing the sensor and because the ECU has its own bias resistor.
You should compile the created .s19 and .inc files into the MSNSE firmware and upload that to your megasquirt.
The reason you remove R7 is because you are sharing the sensor and because the ECU has its own bias resistor.
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11-21-2007, 01:59 PM
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I had smelled something about halfway through my tuning run, but I was driving by a construction site and I couldn't place the smell so I didn't think anything of it.
Over heating would cause a leak wouldn't it? Seemed to stop when it cooled down.
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11-21-2007, 02:04 PM
#10
In my case the end tanks on the rad started to leak so the rad wasnt filling completely, the coolant may have circulated poorly as **** and didnt register properly with the CLT sensor. Thats what I imagined. As soon as I swapped the radiator all the problems dissapeared.
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11-21-2007, 02:22 PM
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When you perform the easytherm update did you combine the defaults of the GM AIT and RX7 CLT?
You should compile the created .s19 and .inc files into the MSNSE firmware and upload that to your megasquirt.
The reason you remove R7 is because you are sharing the sensor and because the ECU has its own bias resistor.
You should compile the created .s19 and .inc files into the MSNSE firmware and upload that to your megasquirt.
The reason you remove R7 is because you are sharing the sensor and because the ECU has its own bias resistor.
-4F 16200
86F 2450
176F 384
settings for the CLT. I guess it looks like I need to go back and reflash that sucker with the GM/RX7 combo.
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11-21-2007, 02:26 PM
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Stops because the pressure drops in the system and doesnt force the fluid out. But if you dont maintain pressure in your coolant system it will cause erratic behavior with the fans.
In my case the end tanks on the rad started to leak so the rad wasnt filling completely, the coolant may have circulated poorly as **** and didnt register properly with the CLT sensor. Thats what I imagined. As soon as I swapped the radiator all the problems dissapeared.
In my case the end tanks on the rad started to leak so the rad wasnt filling completely, the coolant may have circulated poorly as **** and didnt register properly with the CLT sensor. Thats what I imagined. As soon as I swapped the radiator all the problems dissapeared.
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11-21-2007, 07:17 PM
#14
When you enter the defaults, keep in mind that the GM defaults are all in fahrenhiet and the mazda def are in centigrade so enter it correctly. You can also use Aussie drivers numbers, but be sure to select the appropriate scale.
I just realized I entered the values for the CLT in centigrade but didnt chose fahrenhiet in easytherm.
Last edited by Saml01; 11-21-2007 at 07:33 PM.
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11-22-2007, 10:30 AM
#19
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Good call. After reflashing and going out to make sure the fans were kicking in, I popped the hood and sure enough a nice stream of coolant shooting out of one of the heater hoses.
Wonderful.
At least I know where the leak is now!
=(
Wonderful.
At least I know where the leak is now!
=(
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