Spartan Lambda WBO2 Sensor - Review
#1
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Spartan Lambda WBO2 Sensor - Review
Being one of the early adopters of this $105 WBO2 setup, I thought I'd take a minute to share my thoughts and a little bit of data.
Details are here: 14Point7
It basically does what a WBO2 should do, but without the programmable bells & whistles. It's simply an O2 sensor (same one that Innovate uses, I don't remember the number) with a controller built into the connector. It gives you a simulated NB output and a 0-5v (10-20 AFR) WB output.
"Spartan" is a good name for it. It gives you what you need and nothing else. No fancy box, no fancy packaging, no manual or instructions included (they're easily found on the website), ho hassles.
Shipping was a bit slow, as it came from Canada. Took 11 days to get here. I didn't take any photos. It's an O2 sensor with some wires coming out of it, just like the picture on their website. Nothing photogenic about it.
It's a 5-wire installation:
+12
Signal Ground
Heater Ground
NB Out
WB Out
I wired it directly to the MS and put the NB signal on the main O2 input and the WB signal on EGO2. I know it's completely pointless to even bother with the NB signal, I just did it so that I could easily check it for this review.
I set up an MSQ with EGO correction and AE turned off, and tuned it for good stable(ish) 14.7 AFR on the low end and took a quick log with the stock sensor last night. Today, I installed the Spartan and first ran a test using the exact same MSQ to compare the NB output.
Here's a comparison of the stock NB and the Spartan NB:
Bold trace is Stock.
I did a surprisingly good job of matching my first run-up. (couldn't match it a third time for the WB, though) Both sensors showed stable .5 volts where it was warranted. The big difference is that the Spartan seems to be much more sensitive to deviations from 14.7 and reacts much quicker than the stock sensor. Otherwise, I'd say the outputs pretty much matched. (It seemed much more so watching the O2 gauge in TunerStudio where a lot of those fluctuations are more averaged.)
I never got a good matching trace of the WB to match the stock run-up, and gave up after 3-4 tries. I could do more and better testing (should have just set a 1500 RPM fixed idle and logged that... oh, well), but I'm satisfied that this sensor is accurate enough. Heckuva lot easier to set up than an LC-1, too. No calibration required (or possible).
Details are here: 14Point7
It basically does what a WBO2 should do, but without the programmable bells & whistles. It's simply an O2 sensor (same one that Innovate uses, I don't remember the number) with a controller built into the connector. It gives you a simulated NB output and a 0-5v (10-20 AFR) WB output.
"Spartan" is a good name for it. It gives you what you need and nothing else. No fancy box, no fancy packaging, no manual or instructions included (they're easily found on the website), ho hassles.
Shipping was a bit slow, as it came from Canada. Took 11 days to get here. I didn't take any photos. It's an O2 sensor with some wires coming out of it, just like the picture on their website. Nothing photogenic about it.
It's a 5-wire installation:
+12
Signal Ground
Heater Ground
NB Out
WB Out
I wired it directly to the MS and put the NB signal on the main O2 input and the WB signal on EGO2. I know it's completely pointless to even bother with the NB signal, I just did it so that I could easily check it for this review.
I set up an MSQ with EGO correction and AE turned off, and tuned it for good stable(ish) 14.7 AFR on the low end and took a quick log with the stock sensor last night. Today, I installed the Spartan and first ran a test using the exact same MSQ to compare the NB output.
Here's a comparison of the stock NB and the Spartan NB:
Bold trace is Stock.
I did a surprisingly good job of matching my first run-up. (couldn't match it a third time for the WB, though) Both sensors showed stable .5 volts where it was warranted. The big difference is that the Spartan seems to be much more sensitive to deviations from 14.7 and reacts much quicker than the stock sensor. Otherwise, I'd say the outputs pretty much matched. (It seemed much more so watching the O2 gauge in TunerStudio where a lot of those fluctuations are more averaged.)
I never got a good matching trace of the WB to match the stock run-up, and gave up after 3-4 tries. I could do more and better testing (should have just set a 1500 RPM fixed idle and logged that... oh, well), but I'm satisfied that this sensor is accurate enough. Heckuva lot easier to set up than an LC-1, too. No calibration required (or possible).
#2
I'm happy with my LC-1. Calibration takes all of 2 minutes. I dont bother with any of the programmable bells and whistles however what i do like about it is that it offers a digital output to the ECU. Digital > Analog on a ground sensitive unit.
The sensor is a bosch 17014 which is 51.99 at vatozone. In other words they are charging you 55 bucks for a plug with longer cables?
The sensor is a bosch 17014 which is 51.99 at vatozone. In other words they are charging you 55 bucks for a plug with longer cables?
#3
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I've always wondered why things like the MS2/μS/MS3/MS2PNP didn't come with an option for a purely digital input. Damn near everyone runs a LC-1 or a UEGO and both have some sort of digital output capability. That's definitely a feature I'd pay for.
#6
Seeing that a DB gauge + LC1 is $209.00 and the gauge it self is $89.00, this leaves the LC1 controller + a sensor being 120 total. That's 15 bucks more than the what you paid for that cable so no it does not meet my approval. 2nd thought considering its coming from Canada, the shipping will even out that 15 bucks savings.
#9
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Seeing that a DB gauge + LC1 is $209.00 and the gauge it self is $89.00, this leaves the LC1 controller + a sensor being 120 total. That's 15 bucks more than the what you paid for that cable so no it does not meet my approval. 2nd thought considering its coming from Canada, the shipping will even out that 15 bucks savings.
With shipping, I spent $115 and got what I needed. The cheapest Innovate solution would have cost me about $180 (plus shipping), or I could have gone DIY for something like $150-160 (plus shipping).
For the frugal among us, this is the best deal going.
I'm really wondering why you felt the need to post in this thread at all. Nobody is attacking the LC-1 here. It's a great product. This is just an alternative that Joe asked me to share some info about.
#10
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wait... So you're suggesting that i spend an extra $104 to get an lc1 with a gauge that i don't need? And this saves me money how?
With shipping, i spent $115 and got what i needed. The cheapest innovate solution would have cost me about $180 (plus shipping), or i could have gone diy for something like $150-160 (plus shipping).
For the frugal among us, this is the best deal going.
I'm really wondering why you felt the need to post in this thread at all. Nobody is attacking the lc-1 here. It's a great product. This is just an alternative that joe asked me to share some info about.
With shipping, i spent $115 and got what i needed. The cheapest innovate solution would have cost me about $180 (plus shipping), or i could have gone diy for something like $150-160 (plus shipping).
For the frugal among us, this is the best deal going.
I'm really wondering why you felt the need to post in this thread at all. Nobody is attacking the lc-1 here. It's a great product. This is just an alternative that joe asked me to share some info about.
#11
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So, this is pretty much like an AEM UGEO except for the additional narrow band output and lack of gauge? Me likey.
Also, pic is still broke. I'd like to see how that WB/NB relationship works with this thing. Have you thought about trying the NB output on a stock ECU?
Also, pic is still broke. I'd like to see how that WB/NB relationship works with this thing. Have you thought about trying the NB output on a stock ECU?
#12
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Don't know what's up with the picture. It's an attached image... and I see it. It really doesn't show much.
The NB output should work with the stock ECU. My car is still stock-compatible, maybe I'll try it.
The NB output should work with the stock ECU. My car is still stock-compatible, maybe I'll try it.
#14
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Ooooh... I could have just gotten a cable from a PT Cruiser and hooked that to a WBO2 sensor from the parts store? That's all we have to do to get a functional wideband for a Megasquirt? Stunning that I've never run across that tidbit of information before. Thanks so much for sharing it.
Color me enlightened. Next time I'll know.
(Since you obviously haven't grasped the concept yet, in spite of the fact that I've said it at least twice, and you could go read the product description, the Spartan WBO2 includes not just a sensor and a cable, but also a CONTROLLER. Wideband O2 sensors don't work without a controller.)
Color me enlightened. Next time I'll know.
(Since you obviously haven't grasped the concept yet, in spite of the fact that I've said it at least twice, and you could go read the product description, the Spartan WBO2 includes not just a sensor and a cable, but also a CONTROLLER. Wideband O2 sensors don't work without a controller.)
#18
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FYI, I was having issues today and ended up plugging in the stock ECU to verify no mechanical or stock component issues. The Spartan simulated NB output works just dandy with the stock ECU. No CEL. Normal drivability.
#19
Timely thread. I received mine yesterday. I've wired it up, but haven't started the motor yet.(The car I'm building was a bare shell about 2 months ago, I should have it running this week or weekend). It did seem to take awhile to get here, more than 2 weeks. That didn't bother me too much since it's not like I was ready to start the car until this week anyway.
As a note the cable, controller and sensor are potted(epoxied) together. If it dies, you buy a whole new cable, controllerf and sensor for another $100. There is plenty of cable to work with. I haven't unfolded it, but it was way more than I'll ever need. For $115 to my door and if it works as advertized, I'm sold.
As a note the cable, controller and sensor are potted(epoxied) together. If it dies, you buy a whole new cable, controllerf and sensor for another $100. There is plenty of cable to work with. I haven't unfolded it, but it was way more than I'll ever need. For $115 to my door and if it works as advertized, I'm sold.
#20
As a note the cable, controller and sensor are potted(epoxied) together. If it dies, you buy a whole new cable, controllerf and sensor for another $100. There is plenty of cable to work with. I haven't unfolded it, but it was way more than I'll ever need. For $115 to my door and if it works as advertized, I'm sold.