So tunerstudio does not let you have 2 a/c idleup outputs. I will need to go back and jumper a/c fan and a/c clutch, unless there is another way. I would like to have the option to control the a/c fan separate from the a/c clutch. I looked through the generic settings for pins and couldn't find a condition that would turn on the a/c fan when the a/c ground was pressed. Any ideas?
Also, what is the best way to control vics? Use generic pin control like the diypnp does or mess around with the vvt map?
Should I use the diypnp settings for spark/ignition or are there new settings that work better?
okay, so you have the main and a/c fan outputs running off a spare INJ output right? so setup the software like I suggested.
just make it so the output for the main fan is controlled using the generic ouputs screen, and the a/c fan is controlled using the fan control screen. that way the a/c fan can activate with a/c and also by temp. the main fan only needs to run with temp...it's possible you can add a condition to allow it to activate with a/c as well, haven't really searched through the options in the dropdown. I have a 91 so the a/c fan runs off hte a/c relay.
no, for vics the solenoid should be powered below 5250, and off above.
stock diypnp spark/ignition settings should be fine, they are the same outputs on the ms3x.
I got the A/C fan setup properly. The method above worked great.
I read some more about VICS. It seems like DIYPNP doesn't really know what the solenoid is looking for in their description of settings. I set it up brain's way and I will check for vacuum at idle to verify.
I setup my spark settings like the DIYPNP instructions specify.
I attempted to start last night and discovered I had a low battery from leaving the key on while changing settings. It cranked but it would start to fire, vibrate and die, and then the starter would stop turning. I took a log and I will try to post it here. All of my sensors/inputs are reading correctly.
The 4 pots have been adjusted, they fell in the range. I used Frank's instructions.
The car wants to start but it gives up before it gets steady combustion. The starter turns for 3-5 seconds, it coughs one to three combustion events, shudders badly- almost like it backfires and stops.
are you watching the sync indicator? took a composite log? setting those pots is a PITA, I assume you used a voltmeter to set them and not just the turn counts. Also, I found that the points he wanted you to measure in the write up weren't quite right. I spent some time googling figuring out where to measure to set the zero crossing points.
I followed the wiring diagram for all of the important stuff and double checked my wires before I closed everything up. I need to open it again to check where I wired my lowbatt light, so I will check everything again. It would be nice if it were so easy.
I have not done a composite log yet. I only took a regular datalog, I will though.
What is the best way to check my spark output? I was going to check for spark at the plug, but is there a smarter way to determine which spark output is firing (to eliminate a wiring problem).
You can use the output test mode to check spark, you can specify one or several or all of the spark outputs to run. Edit, yeah you do it at the plugs, but its easy enough to take them out then start the loop and make sure you've got the outputs going to the right plug.
So I tried to use some of the settings in the map brain posted in another thread. It wouldn't run/idle. I changed it back, but my idle is still lumpy between 1000-1100. Afr of 14.4. Does this sound like a fuel problem?
It has trouble starting still, requiring throttle and a lot of cranking. Starts great when it is warm.
Can anyone share their idle settings for the beta 24 firmware? Too many options and dead end threads/articles online.
Okay, the difference a day makes, I read up on how to control the rpm at idle and got it to smooth out a little and drop to 880, varies between 860 and 920. I'm aiming for 750 ish.
Edit: my idle target based on warmup is 750.
I adjusted the PID settings according to what they should do but I have my min PID duty set to like 15.6% and p=6 and I = 65. D = 0. Does this sound right? I found that the idle didn't vary with changing the setting and required a full power cycle to settle. Any recommendations on how to get that sorted?
Went for a drive and did some auto tuning. Car is so much smoother and stronger than before, the stock ecu always felt a little lumpy. No excess vibrations through the shifter. I am more impressed than I thought I'd be.