3rdCarMX5

iTrader: (1)

I have a '99 with gm iat and wideband. No boost yet.

3rdCarMX5

iTrader: (1)

So tunerstudio does not let you have 2 a/c idleup outputs. I will need to go back and jumper a/c fan and a/c clutch, unless there is another way. I would like to have the option to control the a/c fan separate from the a/c clutch. I looked through the generic settings for pins and couldn't find a condition that would turn on the a/c fan when the a/c ground was pressed. Any ideas?

Also, what is the best way to control vics? Use generic pin control like the diypnp does or mess around with the vvt map?

Should I use the diypnp settings for spark/ignition or are there new settings that work better?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Use the fan control output for the a/c fan; have it activate with the a/c activation and have it turn on with temperature about 10*F above that of the main fan.

Then use a generic output (INJ E-F-G-H) as the main fan control, giving it a simple method of: turn on above 200*F, turn off after 190*.

For VICS, use another generic output (INJ E-F-G-H). Have it activate below 5250RPM and off above it.

What coils do you have?

3rdCarMX5

iTrader: (1)

I will look further into the fan control settings. The regular fan is already setup as above. I couldn't find a condition for a/c. Should I use the pin description instead?

I think you meant the opposite of what you posted on Vics. It is always on but you want to activate the solenoid above 5200 but I know what you mean.

I have stock coils running in wasted spark.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

okay, so you have the main and a/c fan outputs running off a spare INJ output right? so setup the software like I suggested.

just make it so the output for the main fan is controlled using the generic ouputs screen, and the a/c fan is controlled using the fan control screen. that way the a/c fan can activate with a/c and also by temp. the main fan only needs to run with temp...it's possible you can add a condition to allow it to activate with a/c as well, haven't really searched through the options in the dropdown. I have a 91 so the a/c fan runs off hte a/c relay.

no, for vics the solenoid should be powered below 5250, and off above.

stock diypnp spark/ignition settings should be fine, they are the same outputs on the ms3x.

3rdCarMX5

iTrader: (1)

I got the A/C fan setup properly. The method above worked great.

I read some more about VICS. It seems like DIYPNP doesn't really know what the solenoid is looking for in their description of settings. I set it up brain's way and I will check for vacuum at idle to verify.

I setup my spark settings like the DIYPNP instructions specify.

I attempted to start last night and discovered I had a low battery from leaving the key on while changing settings. It cranked but it would start to fire, vibrate and die, and then the starter would stop turning. I took a log and I will try to post it here. All of my sensors/inputs are reading correctly.

I do not know if my ignition settings are right based on anecdotal evidence I have read. Are these settings right? : http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/ap...0-18bp-mt.html

Am I missing anything?

3rdCarMX5

iTrader: (1)

I put the stock ecu back in and it started as soon as I turned the key. Not a coil/plug problem. Prob not fuel if the cylinders were already primed enough to fire as soon as the key turned.

When I try to start I get very little exhaust that exits the tail pipe smelling very rich.

I am sure it is a setting but I can't seem to find complete settings for a 99 that haven't been modified to run the older boards or the car isn't running and that's why the settings are posted.

Brain do you have a working msq I could start from, or at least look at?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I posted a msq in Omni's thread. You can look at the DIYPNP 99-00 msq for settings for a 99. It's all pretty much the same though.

for VICS do:

enabled 1 | 0
RPM > 5250 100



did you hook the injector order hooked up correctly?

Otherwise only thing I notice on your msq is the need to change skip pulses to 3 from 1. I'd also put lag factors all to 90, but that's trivel right now.

3rdCarMX5

iTrader: (1)

I am not sure what you mean by hooked up correctly, but I have my injection order in tunerstudio set up properly. Do you think that maybe my settings point injectors to the wrong pins?

I'll look for Omni's thread.

My next step is to verify spark and check timing during cranking.

Do I use rising or falling edge?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

but are they wired in the correct order? is Inj A wired to cylinder 1, b - 3, c - 4, d - 2?

should be rising IIRC, you wouldn't sync otherwise. crank for 10 secs while watching the compostie logger and you can easily see how it's reading hte sensors.

did you adjust the 4 pots correctly?

3rdCarMX5

iTrader: (1)

My injectors are wired up like this:

I will make sure it is rising.

The 4 pots have been adjusted, they fell in the range. I used Frank's instructions.

The car wants to start but it gives up before it gets steady combustion. The starter turns for 3-5 seconds, it coughs one to three combustion events, shudders badly- almost like it backfires and stops.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

spark A and B flipped?

ianferrell

are you watching the sync indicator? took a composite log? setting those pots is a PITA, I assume you used a voltmeter to set them and not just the turn counts. Also, I found that the points he wanted you to measure in the write up weren't quite right. I spent some time googling figuring out where to measure to set the zero crossing points.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I've never had an issue just turning them like suggested in the msextra.com/docs/

3rdCarMX5

iTrader: (1)

I used a multimeter to set the voltages.

I followed the wiring diagram for all of the important stuff and double checked my wires before I closed everything up. I need to open it again to check where I wired my lowbatt light, so I will check everything again. It would be nice if it were so easy.

I have not done a composite log yet. I only took a regular datalog, I will though.

What is the best way to check my spark output? I was going to check for spark at the plug, but is there a smarter way to determine which spark output is firing (to eliminate a wiring problem).

ianferrell

You can use the output test mode to check spark, you can specify one or several or all of the spark outputs to run. Edit, yeah you do it at the plugs, but its easy enough to take them out then start the loop and make sure you've got the outputs going to the right plug.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

swap the two outputs (or plugs 1/4 with 2/3) and see if it runs?

3rdCarMX5

iTrader: (1)

It is running now. Needed an adjustment to 5.5* degrees timing and rising edge.

I checked a/c and fans, everything works perfectly.

Now I need to tune my idle, I will also compare Brain's map to what I have. Idles between 10.5-11.2* timing, 14.4-15.0 afr, mostly around 14.7. Idle rpm is 1100-1200. Needs work but it runs.

Thanks for the help, any recommendations for idle tuning on the beta firmware?

3rdCarMX5

iTrader: (1)

So I tried to use some of the settings in the map brain posted in another thread. It wouldn't run/idle. I changed it back, but my idle is still lumpy between 1000-1100. Afr of 14.4. Does this sound like a fuel problem?

It has trouble starting still, requiring throttle and a lot of cranking. Starts great when it is warm.

Can anyone share their idle settings for the beta 24 firmware? Too many options and dead end threads/articles online.

3rdCarMX5

iTrader: (1)

Okay, the difference a day makes, I read up on how to control the rpm at idle and got it to smooth out a little and drop to 880, varies between 860 and 920. I'm aiming for 750 ish.

Edit: my idle target based on warmup is 750.

I adjusted the PID settings according to what they should do but I have my min PID duty set to like 15.6% and p=6 and I = 65. D = 0. Does this sound right? I found that the idle didn't vary with changing the setting and required a full power cycle to settle. Any recommendations on how to get that sorted?

Went for a drive and did some auto tuning. Car is so much smoother and stronger than before, the stock ecu always felt a little lumpy. No excess vibrations through the shifter. I am more impressed than I thought I'd be.