elior77

Hey,

I use DIYPNP on my 97 turbo miata.

When I press the clutch paddle with no ac on, the rpm will go down nice and smooth to around 900 and stay there.

When I do the same with the ac on, the rpm will go down very low 500-600 and almost stall - sometimes it does.

The CL is not even on yet (2sec delay on both situations.

Any help ?

Thanks !

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

Is it a MS1? If it is the MS1 doesnt have the idle up feature. I ran into the same issue. You can play with the Closed loop settings and get it to work however you are going to have a very high idle when the ac is off, however when it is on the idle will be normal. I switched mine back to Warm Up only till my MS2 daughter board gets in and then ill use the idle setting. There is a vid on youtube showing how it works. Much better then then relying on MS1.

elior77

it's a MS2, I understand that I need gslender fw in order to fix the ac idle.

aaronc7

iTrader: (8)

yeah his fw does that, as well as any of the new 3.3 betas will have the same thing. You also need to re-wire a few things on the board to get it to work right...it's all in gslender's documentation for his mods.

elior77

I read his pdf, I could not understand exactly what to do with the wires, can any one help me out ?

Matt Cramer

Can you post a data log of the problem and a copy of your MSQ?

elior77

I would like to install gslender fw in order to fix the ac drop, I just do not understand what to do with the wires.

Can you give me a hand ?



I need to use 1K ? where do I need to put it ?

aaronc7

iTrader: (8)

I just woke up, so maybe sanity check this.....

1K (AC switch) should be routed to an input circuit (PE1, PE0, or PA0). I believe I used one of the input circuits for this to protect the ECU.
Signal to enable AC relay (1B, 1G) is routed from an output port (WLED, ALED)

elior77

I did
1K-->PE1
ALED--->input1 IN
1G,1G--->input1 OUT

worked and then no connection...

Dead CPU?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

That wiring makes no sense. The 1K going directly into the CPU is cause for alarm, it should be going through the input circuit. You have the output traveling through an input circuit, that's silly.

Do:
1K to Input 1 IN (install r14)
Input 1 OUT to PE1
ALED to 1B, 1G

elior77

Did it, still can not connect.

What should I do ?
dead cpu ?
new card ?

aaronc7

iTrader: (8)

Was it hooked up to the car like that, or removed from the car?

elior77

I took it out of the car, did all the wiring and fw flush on the my pc table with a ac/dc psu.

I did not plug it into the car since I took it out.

aaronc7

iTrader: (8)

Then I'd say your MS is fine. I actually think I wired mine up initially without going thru the input, then re-did it (without ever plugging it back in the car, like you). Never had any sort of issues.

elior77

I can not connect... what can I try ?

I used to connect with out a problem all the time.

aaronc7

iTrader: (8)

not sure what to tell ya. is it possible you messed something else up while soldering?

elior77

Luckily a fw re-flush helped, I'm back on track again.

I got it updated to 3.3beta13

looks ok, I need to plug it to the car and see.

Thanks !

I did:

1k--->Input2IN
Input2OUT--->PE1
WLED--->1B, 1G

No need to put something on the WLED pull up - right ?

elior77

Tuned CL fixed the very low rpm when ac + clutch.
(Use last value or table: use initial value table (CLT) - did the trick, keeps the pwm valve open when rpm drops)





*Just closing up all my threads with the solutions I found.