Originally Posted by m2cupcar
I dunno Joe- the word I've had from more than one race car builder was it's virtually impossible to prevent solder instigated corrosion in most automotive environments (outside a sealed case).
False, false, and false. When the correct fluxing agent is used, there is nothing about a soldering process that makes a joint or interconnection more prone to corrosion than any other type of interconnect. Quite to the contrary, a properly soldered connection is a genuinely "gas-tight" interconnect, much unlike the cheap plastic barrel connectors that most of us (myself included) usually use.
The one area where a wire-to-wire soldered joint can
be inferior to a crimped connection has to do with strain-relief. With a solder joint, it is up to the installer to relieve the actual joint area of the stress of flexation. This can be done with simple chemicals such as RTV or Liquid Electrical Tape and heat shrink tube. If this is not done, and the joint is subject to repeated flexing, the wire will show an increased tendency towards fracturing at the terminating point of the solder flow.
Every single one of my ground wires has crimped ring terminal on the end and there's a lot of them, all intact, all crimped with a $20 crimper.
Mine too. I use a ratcheting crimper that I bought from Tech America about 15 years ago for something like $50, and it does nearly as good a job as can be done with plastic insulated barrels. I'd prefer to have a proper Panduit tool, but could never justify buying one at work.
I have no illusions however about my crimped plastic barrel connections being anywhere close to the level of quality of those in the OEM harness. Wherever possible, I try to use Molex 062 connectors as opposed to plastic barrels, as these have a proper strain relief, give a much more serious wire retention, and I have the proper tool for them.
Incidentally, you want to see some soldered wire-to-wire connections in your OEM wiring? Open up your fuel injector sub-harness. It's filled with soldered connections. Given that this is probably one of the most severely abused harnesses on the whole car, I wonder why Mazda chose to solder it?
Incidentally, forget Summit. If you want proper crimp tools, get 'em from DigiKey, Mouser, or Newark. Note also that most
high-end tools are specific to one particular connector. Eg: the tool for a Molex 062 will only
do Molex 062. Same for Amp ModIV, same for WatherPak, same for ELCO, etc...