Woo Hoo Megasquirt II 99NB Stock Sensors!!!
#1
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Woo Hoo Megasquirt II 99NB Stock Sensors!!!
I got the car running on Megasquirt II today. Right now it's only running fuel. I haven't wired up the IAT sensor or any O2 sensors yet. It dosn't run great, but I'm sure it will run better when it's all tuned out with all the sensors hooked up. One problem though. Wait for it....
It's overheating. My cooling fans are not coming on. I guess I'll double check my wiring harness, but the ONLY wires I cut from my patch harness were four wires to the fuel injectors. Any thoughts or do I have to do anything special for the cooling fans to work? Like I said, I didn't cut the fan wires, only the injector wires.
It's overheating. My cooling fans are not coming on. I guess I'll double check my wiring harness, but the ONLY wires I cut from my patch harness were four wires to the fuel injectors. Any thoughts or do I have to do anything special for the cooling fans to work? Like I said, I didn't cut the fan wires, only the injector wires.
#3
He copied your set up, which makes sense since he's running your set up (parallel).
I think I'll take your suggestion and open up the OEM box tonight, see if I can't figure something out.
As I mentioned off forum, I'd make sure the OEM unit sees the temp sensor, or else just move the fans over to MS, gives you more control anyway.
I think I'll take your suggestion and open up the OEM box tonight, see if I can't figure something out.
As I mentioned off forum, I'd make sure the OEM unit sees the temp sensor, or else just move the fans over to MS, gives you more control anyway.
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Yea, I'm running those schematics you posted arga. I'm having an overheating problem though. I'm going to verify the fans are not coming on, though I'm fairly sure they are not, and that's the problem. will check fuses too.
#5
Congrats on your accomplishment, I'm hoping that my MS-II works. What firmware are you running, MS2Extra?
Have y'all found the correct values for the IAT and CLT sensors?
For some reason I haven't found the sorts of values the MS-II configuration wants, ie temperature/resistance.
Am I just being thick?
Have y'all found the correct values for the IAT and CLT sensors?
For some reason I haven't found the sorts of values the MS-II configuration wants, ie temperature/resistance.
Am I just being thick?
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I'm still having goofy temp readings on MT though. I'm gonna reset my CLT values per arga's table above and see what happens. I have a GM open element IAT sensor so I left those values alone. Oddly though, I get a 170 degree reading on the IAT guage in MT with or without the sensor hooked up and it never changes. Don't know what could be causing that. Any thoughts?
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I've heard that some people remove resistor R7 on there ms, and it can affect these sensor values. Anyone know much about that? The coolant temp in MT works fine on the stim, but not in the car, with or without a sensor hooked up.
Edit: I hooked up the fans to MS II so I now have control of the them. Howeve, I'm getting goofy temp readings in MS so I'll have to figure that out. Hopefully arga's vaulues for the CLT calibration will fix these issues. Not sure about what's causing teh IAT issues. I got my LC-1, so I'm gonna install it shortly.
Edit: I hooked up the fans to MS II so I now have control of the them. Howeve, I'm getting goofy temp readings in MS so I'll have to figure that out. Hopefully arga's vaulues for the CLT calibration will fix these issues. Not sure about what's causing teh IAT issues. I got my LC-1, so I'm gonna install it shortly.
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It's currently 41.5 degrees 10 feet from my car, and I have not run the car in 10 hours. I'm trying to get an accurate clt temp guage reading on MT.
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Guys, do I need a diff VE table for fuel? I show 45kpa when idling, and if i pinch the vacuum line to the map sensor, I can make it go up to say 50, and it will idle smoothly. I let go, it goes back to running poorly.
My GM open element AIT sensor refuses to change values. I double checked my wiring, and I have one side of the sensor going to +5V, and the other going to MS. Strangely, I can measure 5V at BOTH leads where the sensor plugs into. Should I switch the +5V that goes into that sensor to ground perhaps?
My GM open element AIT sensor refuses to change values. I double checked my wiring, and I have one side of the sensor going to +5V, and the other going to MS. Strangely, I can measure 5V at BOTH leads where the sensor plugs into. Should I switch the +5V that goes into that sensor to ground perhaps?
#16
An IAT reading of 170 will make your car run horrible. It's like when you get really bad IAT heatsoak. If you tune your idle at like 70* you'll have to use IAT enrichment to make it idle once the sensor heat soaks. For example, while idling my sensor will heatsoak from 70 up to 110-120 or so. The IAT enrichment is disabled by the time i get to 1700 rpm or so.
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Where can I get some copper sheet metal for making a heatsink for my wideband?
I'm gonna switch the 5+ to ground in a second, and go to lowes and see if it runs better. I can tell you right now it feels like a 20 or 30 shot is on the way it now pulls at top end.
I'm gonna switch the 5+ to ground in a second, and go to lowes and see if it runs better. I can tell you right now it feels like a 20 or 30 shot is on the way it now pulls at top end.
#19
You can use aluminum to make your heatsink maybe use two pieces stacked so it looks like it has a upper and lower just to get that extra heat extraction.
Copper sheet isn't cheap or easy to get in small pieces that i know of.
What are you using for your bias resistance values? Im using 1544 and it seems to work great but i have R7 removed. So i would figure you'd be using something ~4k or so but due to recent events with paul's testing that's not how things work for some reason.
Copper sheet isn't cheap or easy to get in small pieces that i know of.
What are you using for your bias resistance values? Im using 1544 and it seems to work great but i have R7 removed. So i would figure you'd be using something ~4k or so but due to recent events with paul's testing that's not how things work for some reason.
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I cut a 1" copper pipe coulpler down it's length, hammered it flat, and dremeled a 3/4" hole in it. If someone tells you to cut a hole in copper with a dremel or they're gonna shoot you, take the bullet. It tooke 30 minutes of dremeling to get it, and I burned up something in my dremel. It let some smoke out and has 1/2 the power. Hopefully just the brushes, but I don't know.
I have a datalog I'll see if I can post it later.
I have a datalog I'll see if I can post it later.