When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Don't know what this guy did wrong, but his hose sits way too close to the intake. Mine clears the intake elbow just enough and I'm with a 53 mm mishimoto and bent brackets.
We've found that for N/A applications there shouldn't be any issue running the included hose. For those with turbo applications it is sometimes required to cut the radiator end a little differently or splice in another hose to gain clearance for the IC tubing. I'm hoping I get some time to work on a more elegant solution to this in the sometime this year.
Well, here is what it looks like installed on my NA8. Sorry for the bad pictures, good as I could get my camera into some tight spots. I was lucky in that I was also doing clutch/flywheel so I could tip my motor forward to install vs. try to shove my fat hands behind there.
I found it worked best if I threaded the hose UNDER the engine harness and behind the clutch line. I also massaged the fuel feed and return hoses to get the hose to "lay down".
Because of the oil cooler water hose outlet there, you can only get the clamp so far back.. I kept pushing thinking, why isn't this going?
Oh, and you might find this "interesting" but I designed a little slide/snap in piece for the upper timing cover and printed it on my 3d printer in in black ABS. I'll fix a few issues with it and put it on Thingiverse if anyone else wants to print one.
Sent email but no reply. Regarding the reroute spacer-- there are 3 threaded holes in it. One is used by the factory coolant temp sensor. What size are the threads in the other 2 holes?
Sent email but no reply. Regarding the reroute spacer-- there are 3 threaded holes in it. One is used by the factory coolant temp sensor. What size are the threads in the other 2 holes?
We get a lot of email everyday, and we make our best effort to reply to all of them but that doesn't mean one gets missed once in a while. My apologies if that's the case.
One hole is for the hose nipple that connects to the heater core and the other is for use with gauges or whatever you choose to do with it. If you'd rather not use this port, just grab a 3/8" NPT plug to seal off this port.
We get a lot of email everyday, and we make our best effort to reply to all of them but that doesn't mean one gets missed once in a while. My apologies if that's the case.
One hole is for the hose nipple that connects to the heater core and the other is for use with gauges or whatever you choose to do with it. If you'd rather not use this port, just grab a 3/8" NPT plug to seal off this port.
What size threads in the heater core fitting hole? I want to use a different fitting than the provided one
The uppermost hole on the spacer is much smaller than the two on the sides. Can you double check the necessary plug size? I'd do it myself, but I have the spacer mounted on the head already.
The uppermost hole on the spacer is much smaller than the two on the sides. Can you double check the necessary plug size? I'd do it myself, but I have the spacer mounted on the head already.
Is the 30.25mm freeze plug the right size for a '99 head? Barely took any force to get it flush with the head. Couple taps with a hammer and it was "in" Felt like I could've pressed it in with my hands
Edit: never installed a freeze plug before. Is it supposed to be that easy?
Is the 30.25mm freeze plug the right size for a '99 head? Barely took any force to get it flush with the head. Couple taps with a hammer and it was "in" Felt like I could've pressed it in with my hands
Edit: never installed a freeze plug before. Is it supposed to be that easy?
I haven't experienced a situation where it didn't seal, but if you're worried about it throw a gasket or some rtv between the plate and the head.
I definitely would not recommend running the plug without a plate to secure it. It's very cheap insurance at that point.
I used good ole Indian Head shellac on my plug (I posted the Dorman # earlier for the brass model), because that's how I was taught long long ago by my old man :P I then put anaerobic sealant around the plate for *****.
Thanks for the feedback! Sometimes geometry is a funny thing and often times we run into the whole 10lbs of stuff in a 5lb bag, which is the case here. I tried to give as much clearance as I could while not making the part anymore difficult to machine and thus keeping the price at a very economical level.
Agree with rigidbigelsworth. Something should really be done about the spacing between the sensor and heater core nipple. Is extremely difficult/frustrating to try to make them play nicely together. Couldn't you swap the location of the large and small sensor ports?
For anyone doing this going forward, install as many hoses on the head as you can before putting the head/motor back in the car.
That being said, everything else is top notch! Pleasure doing business with you.
YAS. is it an NPT fitting? One can use a 90° barb and a quick elbow of a vacuum line right to theFPR mounted on a Hawley Performance EGR/FPR mount. So clean.
01-23-2017, 08:21 AM
1
