AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

I got a couple of heads (a '00, an '03, a mazdaspeed, another '01, and a '01 in junk shape you could practice porting on) and I want to sell all but two. :-)

Taking reasonable offers. They have all either been run on my car and been solid, or are visually very good, except that rusted '01 which might clean up but... I wouldn't. :-)

Also got an '01 oil pan/MBSP, and a couple blocks (actually, it's just two assembled motors plus some heads and an oil pan), misc accessories, etc.

Might be willing to trade in part for a '00 driver's door. :-)

RotorNutFD3S

iTrader: (33)

Long shot, but do you have the intake cam from the MSM head available?

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

How much for the MSM head?

AlexandertheOk

iTrader: (1)

Dibs on 00'!

PM sent

y8s

iTrader: (8)

abraham, do you have the 99-00 intake manifold complete?

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Matt: Yep, got at least one virgin '00 manifold, and one that has the FM dual fuel rail set up on it, with a couple mods, and lots of pics.

Unless I still have to make sure no one wants a whole motor but otherwise it's available.

I'm kinda using the MSM head right now, running in the car, so it'd have to be worth it to swap out for the '00 head. I doubt I'll be parting out the MSM head.

One of the '01's is going on my built motor.


Oh, I also have a '00 head with a great port, polish, deshroud, etc etc, but it's cut for +1 mm valves and needs, well, valves, and obviously laping, etc, as the last set burnt up. The tappet bores are <0.001" loose, but they are loose. I wouldn't want a lot for it, and someone who wanted a head with a LOT of room to grow would do well starting with this. With this head, I pulled repeatably on a MSM with a full exhaust while I myself was running ~2 psi (open wastegate), so I know it's solid.

If someone is looking for a complete motor I have a couple, with options. :-)

rlogan

iTrader: (21)

Do you have any of the wiring for the 01+ motors....I need injector harness or any portions of the wiring that are on the motor.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Abe, about the '00 worked head? I honestly don't know a good starting price, and am doing the homework to see what a rebuild and a little machine-work costs. When you say new valves, do you think it needs a complete set of 16 new valves?

I don't know about the significance of loose tappet bores or what the long-term concerns are.

A new set of Supertech's on eBay are $280, but I'd prefer to buy from a sponsor or community guy.

What do you suppose the machine work/labor would be to get the thing useable provided I supplied the valves? Are there any other valvetrain parts that would be needed?

I'd be interested in local pickup of course... whaddya think about my questions.

hensonator

iTrader: (2)

i am interested in a complete motor

..just how complete is it though..? lol

send me a pm

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

I would think you'd want to go with quality valves. Basically all it needs is a valve job, everything else in it is in awesome shape - I got in a fight with the shop over ... lots of stuff, honestly. They'd written me a warranty, then didn't stand behind it, so we had a lot of bad blood. I walked away from the head when I got this bug to do a VVT system on the megasquirt. The spec is something like 5.4-7.1 mils clearance, and they are all 7.2-7.7 mils. What does it mean? Probably nothing, I'm sure any abused car would die of some other failure before these were an issue. Since I have an entirely built bottom end, I plan on reving the motor to at least 9-10k, so I really wanted everything *perfect*. This is something which would be awesome for 4,500-7,500 power band. I'd say figure $250-400 for valves, $200-400 for the valvejob. Guides are less than a year old, same for the seals. Studs have all been fine. The bores have been all cleaned up and the cambores all line honed.

I'd had a couple bites on this, but hell, I'd rather give it to a local guy, just to meet another local guy. :-)
-Abe.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Abe, if you have a 99-00 block with a crank, lemme know. I am pulling the trigger on a build in the next couple of weeks. I'll swap my pan/head/accessories over.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Sure, if I get some interest in the head.

You have a MBSP pan already? What pistons do you want?

Savington

iTrader: (31)

No MBSP pan, I have a pan with a -10AN fitting welded in that I want to hang onto. Are all your blocks MBSP blocks? Not sure what pistons I will end up going with - probably Weiscos but not sure on compression ratio.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Damn valves are expensive. That plus the head really drives the price up.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

I just got a set of wisecos. Presumably you already have rods? Rods will do you WAY more good than pistons, though you probably already know. I ran stock pistons and went through two sets of factory rods, then put in high quality aftermarket rods and went through a head or two, but never hurt the pistons. If you want to do it on the cheap, get some pre-99 pistons, the lower compression is all you need.

I haven't opened the '99 block, but I remember there was some marking on the pan that made me think it was a 99, besides the head. Actually, I believe that block to be a early model one, with the lower compression pistons and the 'suspected' stronger NA rods. I can pull anything apart and check it for a serious buyer.

I do have an extra MBSP pan. There's nothing special about the blocks, it's the pan and the tray that are different - at least it's bolt on for my '00. I dug for a long time, the best price I could get was 62 for the MBSP and 150 for the pan - I didn't count shipping since I combined it with another purchase at the time. But I'd be willing to let the thing go for $200 shipped though BRGracer has dibs. Putting a fitting on there shouldn't be hard, I could likely do that for like $15 + parts, have to check with my guy.

FYI, I put a banjo bolt (I made a banjo bolt) for the drain plug on a freind's car, and it drains his turbo just fine, though honestly I don't get why. :-)


Yeah, you're telling me. I had ~$800-900 in work done to that head, all upgrades. Wanted to do the big valves while I was in there, but there was just no way I could swing it. Then later I did it, so I ended up with that 'ultimate' head. I feel dumb going for revs and VVT over a torquey motor, it's been proven time and time again the best way to make power on a miata is normal rev limit and free breathing... But I just really wanted to play with VVT. The car is a hobby, not a land speed machine.

Anyway, one thing, a decent head means more power on less boost, less intercooling, less backpressure... More efficient all around. Plus, all that metal taken out in porting brings the vehicle down an ounce or two. :-P Basically, the cheaper head will end up costing more, but it will be the sort of thing that buys you 50 hp. :-)

Hi Im Simon

iTrader: (18)

can't reply to you, your PM box is full.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Fixed. Sorry. :-)

Since he wants to buy the head, anyone want the shortblock? :-) I hate to break up a set, but if it makes more sense it makes more sense.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

intake manlyfold ch33p.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

While I'm at it, if anyone wants a link piggyback setup (great for emissions tests, even 100% CARB legal on a 99...) from Fm let me know, got the manifold and the computer, injectors, etc... :-) That wasn't a bad system, used it for a while.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Henson, your PM's are full.