I recently revamped my entire turbo system, so that I could re-install the A/C in my car. As such, I ended up replacing almost the complete turbo system, except for the turbo itself and some random parts like silicone couplers, air filter etc. This is for a 1.8L, my car is a '94.
So what I have left is about 60% of a complete turbo kit. Here are the details:
I built this system myself back in 2004, and it has about 15k miles of use. No road racing, just two dozen or so autocrosses, two trips to the drag strip, and lots o street driving. The turbo I was using was a GT2860RS, and it made 268 rwhp/250 rwtq at 15psi with a 3" exhaust.
Last spring I noticed a crack in the manifold runner #4. After taking everything off the car, I also found a very small crack in the #1 runner where it met the flange, and a crack in the downpipe at the flange, and finally another crack where the wastegate dump tube slip joint where it merges back into the downpipe. I vee'd out and re-welded all of the cracks myself, using a TIG welder and back-purging the welds. After welding the manifold, the flange was no longer flat so I had to put it in the mill and machine it flat. After the repairs I put it back together and ran it for the rest of the summer without any problems.
Here is what is included:
- ETD Racing 304SS long-tube manifold
- Tial 38mm external wastegate
- ATP Turbo GT28 Turbine housing with T3 flange - this has a 1/8 NPT tapped port at the inlet for an EGT probe. Or you can plug it.
- 10"x17.5"x3" bar and plate intercooler with 3" inlet and outlet (not sure of brand)
- Silicone transition hoses and t-bolt clamps for intercooler inlet and outlet
- Polished aluminum intercooler piping. Starts at 2-1/8" and transitions to 2-1/4" before intercooler, then 2-1/2" between IC and throttle body.
- Stainless steel coolant hardlines for the turbo. You will need the Banjo fitting kit from ATP turbo to make these work.
- Brackets to relocate one of the radiator fans to the center of the radiator
- Custom stainless turbine heat shield
- Braided SS oil feed line
- 2-1/2" downpipe, will mate up to stock cat if you wish. Ceramic coated.
- Wastegate dump tube that merges back into the downpipe, also ceramic coated
This will work with PS, but not A/C. You might have to modify the low pressure line going to the PS pump to make it clear the compressor inlet, depending on what you use for an air intake. I can show pictures of how I modified mine. You will also have to do a little tweaking of the lower coolant hose (quite simple actually, just need to move the hardpipe forward ~1/2" or so, I can show pictures of what I did), or get the BEGi reroute.
I would also recommend a downpipe brace of some type, like the one from Flyin' Miata, to help reduce the risk of future cracks.
$1,000 OBO, shipped to the lower 48.