Press Release: Billet Fuel Rail for 94-97 Miata - $99
06-04-2008, 09:13 AM
#26
Tour de Franzia
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reading comprehension owns me. Any chance the rail will be finished sooner...I need my **** on the road by the end of the month.
Thanks, and I love you.
-hustler
Thanks, and I love you.
-hustler
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06-04-2008, 02:01 PM
#32
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I'm going to take the boost all the way up to see what it makes. I fairly certain a gt28rs is capable of blowing enough air to exhaust that rail. If people are making 250+ at 9psi, 18psi should be interesting. I have to at least post 1 300whp dyno to **** people off around town.
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06-04-2008, 02:46 PM
#36
This is going to pollute this thread, but..... a lot of people say this. And they let their car sit for a long time.... It's a question of margin. And, perhaps, you can work out other bugs in the mean time. You can run the car a bit over rich, and bit over retarded, and a bit lower boost for a month, and what will be the downside?
I see two effects
1) You'll find any weird software or mechanical surprises during that time, issues that if you found them after your expensive dyno tune, you'd have to fix then redynotune.
2) You'd probably waste 2 gallons of gas, and be putting 225 hp to the ground when it could have been 280.
Plus, you'll have a baseline. Put in the new rail, and your reqfuel goes down 10%, that would be interesting to know in itself.
I see two effects
1) You'll find any weird software or mechanical surprises during that time, issues that if you found them after your expensive dyno tune, you'd have to fix then redynotune.
2) You'd probably waste 2 gallons of gas, and be putting 225 hp to the ground when it could have been 280.
Plus, you'll have a baseline. Put in the new rail, and your reqfuel goes down 10%, that would be interesting to know in itself.
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06-04-2008, 02:59 PM
#37
Tour de Franzia
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Join Date: Jun 2006
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This is going to pollute this thread, but..... a lot of people say this. And they let their car sit for a long time.... It's a question of margin. And, perhaps, you can work out other bugs in the mean time. You can run the car a bit over rich, and bit over retarded, and a bit lower boost for a month, and what will be the downside?
I see two effects
1) You'll find any weird software or mechanical surprises during that time, issues that if you found them after your expensive dyno tune, you'd have to fix then redynotune.
2) You'd probably waste 2 gallons of gas, and be putting 225 hp to the ground when it could have been 280.
Plus, you'll have a baseline. Put in the new rail, and your reqfuel goes down 10%, that would be interesting to know in itself.
I see two effects
1) You'll find any weird software or mechanical surprises during that time, issues that if you found them after your expensive dyno tune, you'd have to fix then redynotune.
2) You'd probably waste 2 gallons of gas, and be putting 225 hp to the ground when it could have been 280.
Plus, you'll have a baseline. Put in the new rail, and your reqfuel goes down 10%, that would be interesting to know in itself.
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06-04-2008, 03:09 PM
#38
Find a reasonable map from someone with a similar motor (if you were running MS-II I'd give you mine, it's not too hard to convert in excel anyway). 8 lb spring would be fine for tooling around.
I'm not saying don't spend the $100 (I'm not recommending it either just yet), but the car won't just explode when you turn the key. Do you have a knock sensor?
If not, then I'd say get one, and spend the $100 on the rail on that. I've had it save my butt a couple times. Once in Oregon, the non-self-serve attendant put regular gas in my car. I caught him doing it, but damage done. Well, I saw the knock sensor flashing and pulled the wastegate arm.
Another time, I got a ticket for no front plate. Put one on, in front of the intercooler, and drove to get it signed off. During that drive, I got knock all the time.
Both of those, all the dyno tuning or fuel rail in the world wouldn't have helped.
Knowing your car (i.e. being capable of runing it without a dyno tune) is much more important than any other piece of hardware. Next, the hardware that enables you to do that (wideband, boost guage, knock sensor) is most important. After that, getting the last 10% of HP out of it on a dyno is the thing to do, but it's not the first thing. It sounds like you're building a nice motor - I suggest getting the tools and the comfort to take it to those levels it's capable of. If you don't think you can run 8 psi hand tuned on the street, develop those skills/tools, then you'll get the most out of the dyno time, and not risk the car afterwards.
I'm not saying don't spend the $100 (I'm not recommending it either just yet), but the car won't just explode when you turn the key. Do you have a knock sensor?
If not, then I'd say get one, and spend the $100 on the rail on that. I've had it save my butt a couple times. Once in Oregon, the non-self-serve attendant put regular gas in my car. I caught him doing it, but damage done. Well, I saw the knock sensor flashing and pulled the wastegate arm.
Another time, I got a ticket for no front plate. Put one on, in front of the intercooler, and drove to get it signed off. During that drive, I got knock all the time.
Both of those, all the dyno tuning or fuel rail in the world wouldn't have helped.
Knowing your car (i.e. being capable of runing it without a dyno tune) is much more important than any other piece of hardware. Next, the hardware that enables you to do that (wideband, boost guage, knock sensor) is most important. After that, getting the last 10% of HP out of it on a dyno is the thing to do, but it's not the first thing. It sounds like you're building a nice motor - I suggest getting the tools and the comfort to take it to those levels it's capable of. If you don't think you can run 8 psi hand tuned on the street, develop those skills/tools, then you'll get the most out of the dyno time, and not risk the car afterwards.
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06-04-2008, 03:53 PM
#39
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
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Find a reasonable map from someone with a similar motor (if you were running MS-II I'd give you mine, it's not too hard to convert in excel anyway). 8 lb spring would be fine for tooling around.
I'm not saying don't spend the $100 (I'm not recommending it either just yet), but the car won't just explode when you turn the key. Do you have a knock sensor?
If not, then I'd say get one, and spend the $100 on the rail on that. I've had it save my butt a couple times. Once in Oregon, the non-self-serve attendant put regular gas in my car. I caught him doing it, but damage done. Well, I saw the knock sensor flashing and pulled the wastegate arm.
Another time, I got a ticket for no front plate. Put one on, in front of the intercooler, and drove to get it signed off. During that drive, I got knock all the time.
Both of those, all the dyno tuning or fuel rail in the world wouldn't have helped.
Knowing your car (i.e. being capable of runing it without a dyno tune) is much more important than any other piece of hardware. Next, the hardware that enables you to do that (wideband, boost guage, knock sensor) is most important. After that, getting the last 10% of HP out of it on a dyno is the thing to do, but it's not the first thing. It sounds like you're building a nice motor - I suggest getting the tools and the comfort to take it to those levels it's capable of. If you don't think you can run 8 psi hand tuned on the street, develop those skills/tools, then you'll get the most out of the dyno time, and not risk the car afterwards.
I'm not saying don't spend the $100 (I'm not recommending it either just yet), but the car won't just explode when you turn the key. Do you have a knock sensor?
If not, then I'd say get one, and spend the $100 on the rail on that. I've had it save my butt a couple times. Once in Oregon, the non-self-serve attendant put regular gas in my car. I caught him doing it, but damage done. Well, I saw the knock sensor flashing and pulled the wastegate arm.
Another time, I got a ticket for no front plate. Put one on, in front of the intercooler, and drove to get it signed off. During that drive, I got knock all the time.
Both of those, all the dyno tuning or fuel rail in the world wouldn't have helped.
Knowing your car (i.e. being capable of runing it without a dyno tune) is much more important than any other piece of hardware. Next, the hardware that enables you to do that (wideband, boost guage, knock sensor) is most important. After that, getting the last 10% of HP out of it on a dyno is the thing to do, but it's not the first thing. It sounds like you're building a nice motor - I suggest getting the tools and the comfort to take it to those levels it's capable of. If you don't think you can run 8 psi hand tuned on the street, develop those skills/tools, then you'll get the most out of the dyno time, and not risk the car afterwards.
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06-04-2008, 03:59 PM
#40
Yes. You do!
This is an awesome deal! Really looking forward to pics of the finished product.
It is Official - ETD Racing/M-Tuned is ready to offer their Billet Dual Feed fuel rail for the 99-05 BP 1.8 Miata.
We will be ready to start taking orders on Monday, with an expected delivery of 3-4 weeks.
The Fuel rail will be similar to popular billet rails, but will be offered at an Introductory price of $99 + 10 shipping! Why buy another rail, when you can have this billet piece for under $100!
I will provide you ordering instructions by Monday!
We will be ready to start taking orders on Monday, with an expected delivery of 3-4 weeks.
The Fuel rail will be similar to popular billet rails, but will be offered at an Introductory price of $99 + 10 shipping! Why buy another rail, when you can have this billet piece for under $100!
I will provide you ordering instructions by Monday!
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