Wiring and ECU wanted 99/00
#3
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Haarlem ,the Netherlands
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Done a conversion on a '90 model.
We left the ecu in place. Searched the reverse wires b4 taking out the gearbox.
You also need the P interlock switch: (you can only start an automatic in P, so the wires must be connected to each other)
You need:
gearbox All years
Brace (automatic is shorter) All years
driveshaft all years 1.8
Complete clutch including all hydrolics (all years should do, 1.8)
Clutch pedal (all years should do)
We cut the oem automatic brake pedal so it would fit a manual rubber cover
There is also a cable connected to the P that will not allow you to remove the keys when the car in not in P
We left the ecu in place. Searched the reverse wires b4 taking out the gearbox.
You also need the P interlock switch: (you can only start an automatic in P, so the wires must be connected to each other)
You need:
gearbox All years
Brace (automatic is shorter) All years
driveshaft all years 1.8
Complete clutch including all hydrolics (all years should do, 1.8)
Clutch pedal (all years should do)
We cut the oem automatic brake pedal so it would fit a manual rubber cover
There is also a cable connected to the P that will not allow you to remove the keys when the car in not in P
#4
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Haarlem ,the Netherlands
Posts: 453
Total Cats: 0
Done a conversion on a '90 model.
We left the ecu in place. Searched the reverse wires b4 taking out the gearbox.
You also need the P interlock switch: (you can only start an automatic in P, so the wires must be connected to each other)
You need:
gearbox All years
Brace (automatic is shorter) All years
driveshaft all years 1.8
Complete clutch including all hydrolics (all years should do, 1.8)
Clutch pedal (all years should do)
We cut the oem automatic brake pedal so it would fit a manual rubber cover
There is also a cable connected to the P that will not allow you to remove the keys when the car in not in P
We left the ecu in place. Searched the reverse wires b4 taking out the gearbox.
You also need the P interlock switch: (you can only start an automatic in P, so the wires must be connected to each other)
You need:
gearbox All years
Brace (automatic is shorter) All years
driveshaft all years 1.8
Complete clutch including all hydrolics (all years should do, 1.8)
Clutch pedal (all years should do)
We cut the oem automatic brake pedal so it would fit a manual rubber cover
There is also a cable connected to the P that will not allow you to remove the keys when the car in not in P
Took 2 people 1 day work... Not as easy as repearing a clutch.
Good luck
#6
I just wrapped up the auto removal and MSM 6 speed into my 99 a few weeks ago.
Check with Tom at The Partsgroup - Mazda Miata & RX8 Used Parts for the pedals. They are a major pain in the *** to swap... you will have to pull the steering column out to get the brake/ gas to go out and then back in. You also may have to remove your auto pedals then take off the brake pedal and swap in the manual one bc there is an extra throttle cable there on the auto pedals that is not on the manual ones. I think it was for cruise control.
For the ignition interlock, just cut 1 of the 2 black wires going to the solenoid.
As for the ECU, you can skip the purchase of another ECU if you want... all you have to do is modify your range position switch to allow your car to start and also to get your reverse lights.
Good luck with the swap. It surely was not easy but sooo damn worth it.
Cheers,
Prospero
Check with Tom at The Partsgroup - Mazda Miata & RX8 Used Parts for the pedals. They are a major pain in the *** to swap... you will have to pull the steering column out to get the brake/ gas to go out and then back in. You also may have to remove your auto pedals then take off the brake pedal and swap in the manual one bc there is an extra throttle cable there on the auto pedals that is not on the manual ones. I think it was for cruise control.
For the ignition interlock, just cut 1 of the 2 black wires going to the solenoid.
As for the ECU, you can skip the purchase of another ECU if you want... all you have to do is modify your range position switch to allow your car to start and also to get your reverse lights.
Good luck with the swap. It surely was not easy but sooo damn worth it.
Cheers,
Prospero
#10
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 733
Total Cats: 17
Thanks Prospero! Will be in touch...it's a good looking car and I got a great price on it so I will be doing the swap.
The one thing I am concerned about is whether it has a torsen? If it's an auto seems silly to put a torsen in it. If it indeed doesn't, it's not turning out to be such a great deal after all. I may just flip it. I need to call mazda with the vin and find out.
harley butter, I'll let you know...for sure the master cylinder and hydraulic components...I need the driveshaft/brace but I'll probably find that locally to save shipping
The one thing I am concerned about is whether it has a torsen? If it's an auto seems silly to put a torsen in it. If it indeed doesn't, it's not turning out to be such a great deal after all. I may just flip it. I need to call mazda with the vin and find out.
harley butter, I'll let you know...for sure the master cylinder and hydraulic components...I need the driveshaft/brace but I'll probably find that locally to save shipping
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