chriscar

iTrader: (24)

What firmware do you have on the LC1? If it's not 1.0, try downgrading to it and see if that helps.

FW 1.10 has issues, and lots of posts on the Innovate forum recommend 1.0 instead. I had the same problem as you, as well as hot restart failures on my LC1, and both were fixed by going back to FW 1.0

C

musanovic

iTrader: (2)

Will have to check. How did u run it into the MS? I spliced the brown wire and hooked up both the gauge and MS to it

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Does the small LED blink when this happens?

musanovic

iTrader: (2)

yes.

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

That's an error code. Connect to the LC-1 with your laptop and LogWorks, and see what the error code is - or count how many times the LED blinks. It will blink several times, ie 8, then pause for a second or two and then it will start blinking again.

musanovic

iTrader: (2)

Where to start to get the idle smoother?
PID, Dasport adder, when it warms up i get slight idle hunting maybe 100rpm up and down. The AFR's are pretty good in the 14's. Dasport set to 1.2 i read to leave the D in PID at 0 and work with the P and I. Anybody got a good idle with RX7 550's? What are your settings?

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Get your VE table smooth and disable EGO correction unless fully warmed up. Your problem is likely not idle valve related.

musanovic

iTrader: (2)

Thank you Sr. I'll give that a try.

aballoonflies

can I wire the LED/pushbotton ground to Heater ground on ECU?

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

As a reference for others, the black LC-1 wire after the led and the pushbutton should be connected to the WHITE wire (#3), not to the blue wire. MTX-L owners, the black ground wire should be connected to the BLUE (#2) wire.

musanovic

iTrader: (2)

This is the situation
I am trying to get my car to idle better. Driving and everything else is great I mean Great. Idling is not the best, I can live with it but maybe some bright minds can look at my logs and file and hopefully shine some light here.

The idle is just not steady, up and down, I tried to get the VE table as good as I can around idle. Tried both EGO on and off, did little PID but whatever I do it will not listen to me.
What am I doing wrong.
Thanks for all the help.

Files and logs.
log 1 with EGO disabled
log 2 with EGO enabled
File

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

You need more fuel in the idle areas. Try 58 to 60.

musanovic

iTrader: (2)

Ill give it a shot after work. Thanks D

musanovic

iTrader: (2)

good recommendation getting there.
it really did help adding fuel and watching how it fluctuates and what it does on AF gauge. Another question, my knock retard always shows 6 which is the max i have set. Should i turn it off? timing reads around 11 when idling.
I'll post another log tom.

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

You can disable it for now through the software, but you need to adjust the sensitivity of the onboard circuit, by adjusting the blue potentiometer that is on the mainboard. Counter-clockwise rotation makes it less sensitive (what you want), clockwise rotation makes it more sensitive.

musanovic

iTrader: (2)

Thanks D
This is the support that everyone should provide to their customers !! Damn I just noticed this timing retard and there is more potential to gain more power by gaining back these 6.

aballoonflies

Finally installed it and base map that Reverant provided is GREAT. Drive's fine, idle fine (Only with fan off)
Here's my problem. With interior fan off everything is fine. When i turn on the fan(No A/C on), the idle stumbles but the engine will not die. If I give some throttle and let go, the rpm will dip to below 600k but still, engine will not die. CEL and battery light comes on occasionally when I let go of throttle in idle with fan on and rpm dips.

Another problem is for some reason my Door Lock light (no idea what's it called, see video) comes on random and blinks in random sequence thru out driving, idle, regardless fan on/off.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30PEES8UHpk

I havent get a chance to datalog yet. but will do this weekend.

Thanks!

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

CEL and battery light do come on if the RPM dip more than 600.

The "door lock light" is actually the immobilizer unit light. It warns you that it can't communicate with the stock ECU (duh).

You need to make it a tad richer at idle, try 14.7 as usual.

A datalog will definitely help me in eradicating this issue.

aballoonflies

Any ways to turn off that immobilizer light? if its on solid I wouldnt mind. but blinking is annoying.
I did TS autotune using its default AFR map tonight. seems like it made it better. So I should upload a msi log. Here's a pic of my table after autotune.

aballoonflies

will do a datalog of the stumble idle tomorrow.