Ek9.civic

Hello everyone. I've been having a blast driving this go-kart and so far things have been going pretty well. I street-tuned it with VE Analyze Live on Tunerstudio. It has been a long learning process as this is my very first car/project that I have tuned myself. Though quite happy, I would very much appreciate some opinions on my Current tune. One thing that is bugging me is the amount of boost lag/boost offset. I feel like I am not staying in boost long enough to really take full advantage of the added power. Once my gauge reads full boost, I'm thrilled for roughly 2,000-2,400rpms before having to shift. Maybe I just shift too soon at 6,300rpms because I don't like redlining it much or maybe the turbo is just too big for my application. I am seeking to rebuild my motor in the far future.

Current Setup:
Stock 1.8L motor
BEGi manifold
BEGi 2.5" downpipe =(
Enthuza 3" exhaust system w/Magnaflow muffler
Metal Core Catalytic Converter(2.75" inlet/3"outlet)
GT2871R (.60A/R)
RX7 550cc Injectors
Intercooler
MSPNP
Castrol Syntec Motor Oil

Here are my current and most recent files:
My Overboost Protection is set at 152kPa. There are currently no fuels cuts up to redline.
I'll try to Data Log this afternoon. If there is any more information needed please feel free to ask. Thank you.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

LOL shifting at 6300 is pretty silly.
by your description revving to 7 would give you roughly 3k rpm worth of powerband which is definitely not bad at all.
also the 71R wasn't really designed to be limped at 10psi. you CAN run it that low, but it really wants to run 14+

If you're gonna limp it that low you should trade it for a tater or a 2560

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Wrong turbo for you application, +1 to exactly what vlad said. If you want to shift at 6k rpm all day, look for a t25. My tiny t25 (2554) is AWESOME for mid range but doesn't quite have the top end punch. A 2560 would be perfect.

Ek9.civic

I really appreciate the quick responses. Maybe it's just my driving style that needs a little tweaking lol. I will probably just keep the 2871R and turn out more psi once the bottom-end gets a little more lovin.

Chiburbian

iTrader: (1)

Let me clarify what you are asking...

Are you asking why it's taking so long to build boost/power, or is your "felt power" trailing off as you shift at 6300 rpm?

Are you running any sort of electronic or mechanical boost control, or are you on the actuator pressure?

EDIT: lots of replies in the time it took me to get to this tab and reply. Yikes! Question still stands though. Thought it's not magic, some sort of boost control should help.

Ek9.civic

It seems as though it's taking a bit long to hit full boost and yes it does SLIGHTLY trail off after 6300 rpm. This is probably one of the causes of me shifting early as a reaction of losing power. I would like to know if there are any improvements to be made in the current tune. I did increase the richness roughly around 90kPa-100kPa as I have researched that it will slightly improve spool. I haven't dealt with the Accel Enrichments and am wondering if it seems within specification. Also if the spark table looks okay?
I believe that Data Logging will help clarify everything up and I will get that posted as soon as I can.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Without logs we can't tell you anything about fuel.
AFR targets look not bad.
Timing looks not bad (I'm assuming it goes straight through the 140-150kpa regions per your description)
It can definitely benefit from more tuning

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

There are 3 things that are contributing to the slower spool.
1. Large turbo
2. Log manifold
3. Crappy head

Efini~FC3S

iTrader: (4)

That turbo should have no problem holding boost to redline. If it is actually falling off you need to check your boost control system.

2.5" downpipe might also be hurting your spool

Ek9.civic

Okay I just got back from a highway run.
-The weather app says that it is 80 degrees outside.
-After viewing the log it seems as though my AFR readings are off. I'm pretty sure that I'm not running that lean(according to my AFR gauge and TS gauge). -Another thing is that my car is running a bit hotter than the normal 191 degrees. It's been cruising at 210 degrees lately and sometimes my temp gauge rises while cruising on the highway. I'm assuming that it's the ducting as I don't have one and know that I definitely need one to direct airflow. What's weird is that the temp gauge sometimes flickers from "normal" to midway then back to normal. Coolant reroute possibly? Faulty temp gauge? My coolant level is okay and I have already worked out the air bubbles by leaving the radiator cap off and letting the fan kick on a few times. Any other ideas?

Well here's my Data Logging. It's my first time posting one up so please let me know if it's any good or if it's even viewable. Thanks everyone for the input.

Edit*- After further studying my data log, it seems as though the AFR readings are off by 1 point. (Example: MegalogViewer 16.0AFR = TS 15.0AFR) Everything else seems accurate I suppose. Boost gauge reads 9.5ish PSI.

Alejo_NIN

iTrader: (2)

subbinh

hustler

iTrader: (6)

My NA VVT cars take less spark angle at high kpa, low rpm than that.