viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

Hey guys, I am sooooooo close to finally starting my beast up.

Any ways, got the MsPnP hooked up and the IAT installed. I know I can start it on this alone but it wont start up just turns over. Megatune says its not reading any rpm's. The rpm's needle should be jumping but i'm not getting any thing from it.

Any advice please! I've been waiting too long to wait any more.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Seriously, we need more info. How about the year of car, engine size and mods, what maps you're running, what you've tried/changed/modified/fucked up/fixed. Does it run on the stock ECU? Did it run before you put the MSPNP? Did you buy the MSPNP new? When you look in megatune do ANY of the gauges work at all?

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

car is 90 running the mspnp 90-93 for the 1.6. I bought it new. I'm just trying to get it started off the preloaded ms map. The engine has work done but that shouldn't be a problem for start up. Other mods are in my sig.

megatune gauges are reading the basics. manifold temp. coolant temp. etc. but it's not getting an rmp signal. The needle should bounce around but stays at 0.

I was running a sebring charger which used that MSD box and I think I may have fucked up a wire when taking it off.

I trust you Pat, you have come up with some creative stuff. I know you guys on here can help me.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I highly suggest you double check the suspect wiring. If you messed with wiring on the CAS's circuit, and now you're not getting a signal from the CAS.... I think you know where to start looking.

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

Gotcha covered. I think that was the problem. A "yellow" wire was undone and I'm pretty sure that might be problem.

I say "Yellow" because I have eye color disorder. It's like being dislexic but with colors. Very FUN!!

Any way, gonna take the comp. back out and try it again.

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

The car cranked!!! But the idle was very, very high. Over 2000rpm's. Any reason for this?

I can't think of any thing else that I might need to check.

Got any ideas guys?

holy **** it sounded so good

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak. Or the throttle is adjusted too high. (actually probably not a vacuum leak or it would hickup as you have a MAF sensor) Or the throttle is adjusted too high and the IAC valve is opening to idle the engine up, and that combination is making for a slightly higher than normal idle. I'm gonna guess that you had this throttle body bolted on the back of a sebring SC at one point, so it's very possible that it needs to be readjusted once the engine reaches normal temp now.

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

Im about 100% percent sure it's not a vacuum leak. The TB was on the back of the sebring for a long time but, what would I need to do adjust it?

The idle is really not an "idle". It is very sporadic. I've only had it cranked twice for around a minute each time. The first time I found an oil leak on the turbo inlet, it wasnt serious.

Could it be my IAT sensor? I hooked it up according to the megamanual.

I did notice some smoke too. But I am still not sure what it could have been form.

What tests can I do to help eliminate factors so I can get my car to a nice normal idle?

"btw, it's after 10 here and my neighbors love me! Those bastards would always walk by and were like, "Hey boy! When you gettin that hunk'O junk runnin!?"

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Oh yeah..... You have a MSPNP... So yeah, probably a vacuum leak. Also, if you're doing all this on a fresh engine, make sure you got all the air out of the cooling system, check for leaks, etc. Even though this has nothing to do with your high idle, it's more important to address first than a high idle. (Inadvertently, a high idle is actually a good thing to have for an engine that's being broken in from a fresh rebuild. )

Check for vacuum leaks everywhere. Odds are you have one. Or try adjusting the TB after it warms up.

Also, what do you mean it's "sporadic"? Datalog the next time you run it and post the log. Make it a minute or two long, and rev it a few times, etc.

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

The motor isn't fresh it's the same motor I was running with the SC so it's well broken in.

I think that goddamn idle air control **** is what causing this **** up. The idle was between 2000-2300. Settled more around 2200 though. That is what I meant by sporadic "all over the place". Should I check my workshop manual for potential leak points?

Alright guys. I'm gonna go tear the car apart and check for leaks tomorrow because I got an autocross at 7 am. My friend is gonna let me beat the **** out of his new e30. ***** gonna be fun.

Pat: you made it sound like the MsPnP is prone to vacuum leaks, why? Is there something I should be looking for? btw, I will make a log next start up.

Either way I am just so ******* stoked that i got to here my car for the first time in months!!! sounds so ******* sweet!

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

Started it back up today with the leaks fixed and still getting the same problem. I am really starting to believe that the problem is with me and not the megasquirt.

This is my first time EVER doing anything like this(turbo install, megasquirt) and I really should slow myself down before I pop my motor.

I am going to go back track and look at every single connection and make sure that megasquirt, the aem uego, iat, etc. are installed 100% correctly. Also gonna take a look at peoples maps and see were I can find some similarity's in turbo setups for tuning.

Still, if any one has some advice or ideas please feel free to say or blurt out whatever you want.

My goal is to be safely be boosted to 8psi for the next autocross in mid February.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Let it warm up. If it's still idling high, set the idle. Definitely take your time and make sure you know what you're doing though. You don't wanna loose an engine over something stupid. You wanna go down in glory!

hazimwood

DId you adjust your timing in Megatune; as per the instructions?

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

Haven't yet but, a buddy of mine who owns a shop is going to let me borrow his timing light, hopefully tomorrow.

Actually when I cranked the car today it did much better, since I found the source of the major vacuum leak. Still idle'd around 2200 but held it steady. When I cranked it a second time the idle actually went to around 2600 and held steady.

I'm really starting to think that Pat was right about my throttle needing to be adjusted do to having that ******* sebring charger on here for so long. I have a little slack in the throttle cable; is this something to worry about and attend to?

I'm just killing time between classes now but, what should I need to change from the base mspnp map to get a decent idle? Or is this really to broad of a question?

cantrade

I'm just killing time between classes now but, what should I need to change from the base mspnp map to get a decent idle? Or is this really to broad of a question?
__________________

I would not start changing any of the base tables or settings to correct the idle.
First I would check the timing and get it right on--probably 10 degrees.
While doing this you will have to keep playing with the idle screw to keep the idle where you want it. Around 1,000 rpm would be great.
These things should be done step by step and if you jump ahead and start tweaking around you will make yourself sad. Get it to idle first then proceed to gradual tuning of the VE table and the Spark Table.

I can send you a quick start manual in .pdf format if you think it will help. Don't get discouraged, slow down and think about the problem and what can cause it to happen.

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

I would not start changing any of the base tables or settings to correct the idle.
First I would check the timing and get it right on--probably 10 degrees.
While doing this you will have to keep playing with the idle screw to keep the idle where you want it. Around 1,000 rpm would be great.
These things should be done step by step and if you jump ahead and start tweaking around you will make yourself sad. Get it to idle first then proceed to gradual tuning of the VE table and the Spark Table.

I can send you a quick start manual in .pdf format if you think it will help. Don't get discouraged, slow down and think about the problem and what can cause it to happen.[/QUOTE]


Gotcha covered man. I have the quick start manual and I should have a timing light in my hands tomorrow.

I played around with the idle screw and the throttle cable and got it to idle a bit better.

The only problem now is that i'm back in school (6 classes!) and I have to find breaks to work on the miata.

I'll chime in tomorrow and let you guys know if I got the idle set right.

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

Got some time recently to get back on the car and figure this idle out. All sources pointed me to the TPS. I pulled the TB off and took off the TPS and a small plastic piece fell out onto the floor when I removed the cover. After moving the TB from the back of the blower to its factory location, I wouldn't be surprised if I did some damage to it then.

I'm pretty sure that this was the problem all along.

If any one has any info as to why this would or would not be the problem please let me know.

Even if it isn't the problem I still need to get a new TPS any way.

Any ways, the last time I cranked the car is sounded much better and after ******* with the idle screw I got the idle to calm down a bit.