BrownMiata

Seems like there is alot of these threads.

Ill give some background.

DIYPNP for 90-93 miata. Running on a 93 miata.
Bought a turbo car for cheap basically for the MS. Car ran but not well.
Put newest Frimware on and got "Conflict between spare output and Spark output"
I looked this conflict up and it seems someone has had good luck tuning off "Injection LED, Accel LED and Warm up LED"

Im very confused. I thought it would be more like place new frimware on MS and then put on startup map given by DIYAT and then start screwing with settings. I cant even get the car to start.

MAP line is ran and connected. GM AIT is installed and setting has been changed in TS. Innovate wideband.

I hope this is enough info and thank you in advanced I cannont believe after 6 years of having miatas this is my first MS!

BM

ramensoop

iTrader: (1)

Not enough info.
What does it do/not do when trying to start?

have you verified base timing?

are you getting a crank signal?

Also post your tune and a log if you can.

Part of "screwing with settings" is getting it to start.

BrownMiata

First, thank you for the reply.

The he car is getting fuel but no spark. TS states on the bottom "cranking" but when I stop trying to crank it still is green and says "cranking"

i checked base timing before Megasquirt. Do I need to do this after as well?

I'm not sure how to upload a log. But I'm see I can figure it out!

BrownMiata

Okay so I got the timing light out finally and no spark is definitely a cause. I tried jumping FP to GRN with no avil.

I updated to the latest firmware on the DIY site. 3.4.2 and uploaded a base map. I instantly get hit with an error.

Upon further reading it seems there is too many "LED's" on. So i found the setting to turn one off and after its turned off the error goes away.

Still no spark.

Very confused. I read on DIY's site that you should use an older verson firmware that the base was attached to. So I tried that on 3.3.3 also no luck. I added screenshots and attached my tune and data log. Error on startup
LED page
After I disable LED 016

BrownMiata

Link to Log

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9s0l73y90m...16.41.msl?dl=0

BrownMiata

So I decided to make sure that I was getting spark on the stock ECU.. I was. So I replugged in MS with my MAF installed and bam it started right up.

So with the MAF installed it seems to run but not very well. Super rich with lots and lots of black smoke.

At least I got it running now I guess a base tune that actauly works would be nice.

Matt Cramer

First, make sure the DIYPNP is loaded with MicroSquirt Module firmware - that screen shot appears to be set for full sized MS2 firmware. This can cause all sorts of weirdness, including it reading that you have configured outputs on the wrong pins.

BrownMiata

I noticed this during one of my Reflashes. This helped significantly. The car is now running. But Still cant get it to run with out the MAF. You rock Matt Cramer!

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you cant use LED16 as a programmable output.


you basically told your MS not to work; then expected it to work.

Matt Cramer

If it needs the MAF to run, make sure you have the high side driver supplying 12V when turned on and the ST SIGN fuse removed.

BrownMiata

Thank you again.. I figured out that my Wideband is giving me a shorting error. Im assuming the car wont start with out a o2 sensor of some sort. I ordered a new one from innovate and it will be here friday. I hope I can get the car running by next week to take it to the tooooonnerr

Matt Cramer

It should start fine without the O2 sensor.

BrownMiata

Really? I was afraid of that. Could It be that the sensor was giving 16.0 at all times throwing off the MS?

Got the new sensor and everything today I am installing as we speak

BrownMiata

BrownMiata

Alright guys.So installed the new wideband. No longer getting odd readings from it. But the car still wont start with the MAF unplugged. I was told to remove the ST SIGN and I did that previous to MS install. And now I have been trying to research to find out where the "High side driver" is. I went into the DIYPNP manual and found a section on it but did not see what pin exactly Im supposted to be checking for 12v is.

Thanks again I also uploaded the photos of the board

BrownMiata

TTT

Matt Cramer

Check to be sure the "out" wire of the high current driver supplies 12 volts when the fuel pump is commanded on.

BrownMiata

Seems im only getting 4.7v to both in and out on the high side driver.

I attached a photo of where my leads are going.

Matt Cramer

Why did you wire the high side driver to the circuit meant to power a Bluetooth adapter? If you found any directions on a DIYAutoTune page stating to do this, please send me a link so I can fix this ASAP.

BrownMiata

did not do that! the red lines were where I hooked the multimeter up to get the reading. I guess it makes sense that it was only getting 4.7v because thats what the bluetooth adapter is getting. So i guess I am not getting 12V to the High side driver.