Looking for a 2001-2005 1.8 tune for my MSPNP
12-14-2010, 01:32 AM
#21
That'd be sort of difficult, I'd have no way to test for fitment nor know exactly what your configuration was Nagase 
However, I don't like the S4 or S5 rotaries. I love the 13BRE (Cosmo, if you will), and I personally feel that even 12A's are superior to the 2nd gen. However, do you know what goes into building a 230rwhp non-pport n/a rotary out of curiousity?
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12-14-2010, 01:40 AM
#22
That'd be sort of difficult, I'd have no way to test for fitment nor know exactly what your configuration was Nagase However, I don't like the S4 or S5 rotaries. I love the 13BRE (Cosmo, if you will), and I personally feel that even 12A's are superior to the 2nd gen. However, do you know what goes into building a 230rwhp non-pport n/a rotary out of curiousity?
Why don't you like the S4 or S5?
Yeah, I have some idea... intake, exhaust, megasquirt, RE/W housings, massive street port, S5/Renesis rotors should do it. Been following the max street port N/A whp thread on 7club for /years/.
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12-14-2010, 01:43 AM
#23
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=818133
That's probably my favorite thread on the topic - but check out his port work. It's amazing.
As for why I don't like the S4 or S5, frankly, I feel it takes a lot more work to get them in an equivalent state to an S6+. The housings alone are *** compared to S6+, as an example. S6+ is so much better made, and S3- are rock solid. S4 and S5 just...aren't that great in my eyes compared to other options.
That's probably my favorite thread on the topic - but check out his port work. It's amazing.
As for why I don't like the S4 or S5, frankly, I feel it takes a lot more work to get them in an equivalent state to an S6+. The housings alone are *** compared to S6+, as an example. S6+ is so much better made, and S3- are rock solid. S4 and S5 just...aren't that great in my eyes compared to other options.
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12-14-2010, 01:47 AM
#24
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=818133
That's probably my favorite thread on the topic - but check out his port work. It's amazing.
As for why I don't like the S4 or S5, frankly, I feel it takes a lot more work to get them in an equivalent state to an S6+. The housings alone are *** compared to S6+, as an example. S6+ is so much better made, and S3- are rock solid. S4 and S5 just...aren't that great in my eyes compared to other options.
That's probably my favorite thread on the topic - but check out his port work. It's amazing.
As for why I don't like the S4 or S5, frankly, I feel it takes a lot more work to get them in an equivalent state to an S6+. The housings alone are *** compared to S6+, as an example. S6+ is so much better made, and S3- are rock solid. S4 and S5 just...aren't that great in my eyes compared to other options.
Never got back to me.
I think the FB is the best 7, honestly. The FC is just too heavy for N/A, and I don't like the feel of a turbo on a rotary. It detracts from the character and feel of the engine (then again, I'm not much of a turbo person...).
And yeah, I'm totally in agreement with S6's. That was always my end goal.
He said 230whp wasn't even optimized as a setup. Nice.
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12-14-2010, 01:52 AM
#25
Ehh, I like the FB a lot, but the FD has it's own sex appeal. I use my fail chariots as daily drivers though - they make surprisingly good ones, although my 24-25mpg is a bit low.
Still, I think your goals might be a bit high for an n/a rotary. Duplicating what he achieved would require a 13BRE core - down to the mani. You couldn't start with a S4/S5 engine. And if you are willing to spend that much on a 13BRE (The port work gets expensive when doing that) you could just as well seriously consider a 20B.
Still, I think your goals might be a bit high for an n/a rotary. Duplicating what he achieved would require a 13BRE core - down to the mani. You couldn't start with a S4/S5 engine. And if you are willing to spend that much on a 13BRE (The port work gets expensive when doing that) you could just as well seriously consider a 20B.
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12-14-2010, 01:58 AM
#26
Ehh, I like the FB a lot, but the FD has it's own sex appeal. I use my fail chariots as daily drivers though - they make surprisingly good ones, although my 24-25mpg is a bit low.
Still, I think your goals might be a bit high for an n/a rotary. Duplicating what he achieved would require a 13BRE core - down to the mani. You couldn't start with a S4/S5 engine. And if you are willing to spend that much on a 13BRE (The port work gets expensive when doing that) you could just as well seriously consider a 20B.
Still, I think your goals might be a bit high for an n/a rotary. Duplicating what he achieved would require a 13BRE core - down to the mani. You couldn't start with a S4/S5 engine. And if you are willing to spend that much on a 13BRE (The port work gets expensive when doing that) you could just as well seriously consider a 20B.
I hadn't looked too far into the manifolds, honestly. That or exhausts. The wiring scared me away from the project, and now I have neither part to it... and another turbo miata coming together instead.
Still though, is there no one making an aftermarket intake for the 13b? Is it only carburator or hack on stock manifolds?
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12-14-2010, 02:05 AM
#28
By the time you sell off the turbo stuff, maybe 1k?
Port it, put in Renesis rotors, shorten the intake manifold by 2", make an exhaust, intake, and 230whp.
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12-14-2010, 02:27 AM
#32
Guess it's not bad, 4k is pretty typical engine rebuild costs, and starting out with an FC+Miata would get a car running for a long time to save up money, and could optimize ecu/intake/exhaust while doing so.
That was my plan:
Stage 1: Get the car running with an FC engine, make it reliable
Stage 2: Optimize everything that can carry over to the next engine.
Stage 3: Pop in super engine
Coolant, easy. Motor mounts, easy. V8Roadster subframe, easy. Exhaust worried me, but I could wrap my head around it.
Looked at the wiring harness... thought about wiring... sold the FC. -.-
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12-14-2010, 02:45 AM
#35
That's actually pretty impressive.
I've been working on various PC components since the '90s, so soldering and dealing with electrical connections is old hat. Do you know how to use continuity testers and DMMs? That covers really 95%+ of troubleshooting anything with wiring.
I've been working on various PC components since the '90s, so soldering and dealing with electrical connections is old hat. Do you know how to use continuity testers and DMMs? That covers really 95%+ of troubleshooting anything with wiring.
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12-14-2010, 02:58 AM
#36
That's actually pretty impressive.
I've been working on various PC components since the '90s, so soldering and dealing with electrical connections is old hat. Do you know how to use continuity testers and DMMs? That covers really 95%+ of troubleshooting anything with wiring.
I've been working on various PC components since the '90s, so soldering and dealing with electrical connections is old hat. Do you know how to use continuity testers and DMMs? That covers really 95%+ of troubleshooting anything with wiring.
Still going ahead on your own swap?
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12-14-2010, 03:01 AM
#37
My rotary swap is being temporarily put off, honestly. I had a rotary engine that was waiting to go in, pulled it apart to replace the soft seals, and BAM...
Damage from a coolant leak.
Not rebuildable, center plate and front iron damage.
DMM is a Digital MultiMeter. A continuity tester is one of those things that lights up. It's literally all you need to test and diagnose just about any wiring problem in a DC system.
Damage from a coolant leak.
Not rebuildable, center plate and front iron damage.DMM is a Digital MultiMeter. A continuity tester is one of those things that lights up. It's literally all you need to test and diagnose just about any wiring problem in a DC system.
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12-14-2010, 03:15 AM
#38
My rotary swap is being temporarily put off, honestly. I had a rotary engine that was waiting to go in, pulled it apart to replace the soft seals, and BAM...
Damage from a coolant leak. Not rebuildable, center plate and front iron damage.
DMM is a Digital MultiMeter. A continuity tester is one of those things that lights up. It's literally all you need to test and diagnose just about any wiring problem in a DC system.
Damage from a coolant leak.
Not rebuildable, center plate and front iron damage.DMM is a Digital MultiMeter. A continuity tester is one of those things that lights up. It's literally all you need to test and diagnose just about any wiring problem in a DC system.
I can figure out headlights, turn signals, that should just be line up hot and grounds, I guess I'd end up using the FC dash in the Miata (ugly) and hope the heater fan/light bulbs had the same amount of connections. I just knew things wouldn't be that simple.
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12-14-2010, 03:18 AM
#39
Well there goes my plan to ask for your wiring harness remaking knowledge. -.-
I can figure out headlights, turn signals, that should just be line up hot and grounds, I guess I'd end up using the FC dash in the Miata (ugly) and hope the heater fan/light bulbs had the same amount of connections. I just knew things wouldn't be that simple.
I can figure out headlights, turn signals, that should just be line up hot and grounds, I guess I'd end up using the FC dash in the Miata (ugly) and hope the heater fan/light bulbs had the same amount of connections. I just knew things wouldn't be that simple.
You should only need the FC engine harness, NOT the other harnesses.
Remember, FC's have several harnesses in them. The engine harness is it's own little thing. As I think about it, if you are good with reading wiring diagrams, you might be able to get a working hybrid of a FC engine harness and a Miata standard harness plugged into a MegaSquirt. You may have to extend a few connections onto the FC engine harness, but...The engine harness is it's own little thing.
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12-14-2010, 03:32 AM
#40
Frankly, I think you are overthinking it.
You should only need the FC engine harness, NOT the other harnesses.
Remember, FC's have several harnesses in them. The engine harness is it's own little thing. As I think about it, if you are good with reading wiring diagrams, you might be able to get a working hybrid of a FC engine harness and a Miata standard harness plugged into a MegaSquirt. You may have to extend a few connections onto the FC engine harness, but...The engine harness is it's own little thing.
You should only need the FC engine harness, NOT the other harnesses.
Remember, FC's have several harnesses in them. The engine harness is it's own little thing. As I think about it, if you are good with reading wiring diagrams, you might be able to get a working hybrid of a FC engine harness and a Miata standard harness plugged into a MegaSquirt. You may have to extend a few connections onto the FC engine harness, but...The engine harness is it's own little thing.
So to swap over the engine harness, I'd need to splice in coils, crank/e-shaft position sensor, oil pressure, coolant temp, throttle position, tach...
Is that it? That makes it sound almost doable. o.o;
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