Garman

I've been searching everywhere for a solution to my issue and I've tried several "fixes" but I'm just out of ideas and apparently knowledge.

I've got a 1999 engine and a second hand MSPNP2 (I know, first mistake) and am just getting my feet wet in the whole standalone ECU and tuning world.

I have everything hooked up as it should be, I think, with an Innovate MTX-L and the GM IAT sensor. No turbo yet. Everything seems to be working fine except that I'm not getting any spark and I'm getting the "not RPM synced" red button illuminated.

The OEM ECU works fine which tells me my crank sensor is set correctly and the car runs perfect with the OEM ECU.

I've downloaded the most recent firmware and followed several videos on setting up the base map for the '99. I've tried several different settings based on some forum recommendations but they make no difference. I'm concerned at this point that my MS2PNP is suspect. Since I didn't build this one I really don't know where to begin on troubleshooting the damn thing, so here I am.

Pics below of the MS2PNP innards and I've included my tune files if anyone is interested in helping.

I'm so close with my turbo build and I'm in the final stretch but this one has me stumped.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

I forgot to respond to your text. I'm unsure how to help with this one. Maybe someone else can offer something.

acedeuce802

iTrader: (1)

That's a DIYPNP, not an MSPNP2. Was it wired for an NB1? Run a composite log so you can see the cam and crank signals to see what's the culprit.

Garman

DIYPNP. My mistake. The guy I bought from had it running in his ‘99 Miata so I’m assuming it was wired correctly for the NB1’s. I included an attachment of my composite log. I’m not really sure what I’m looking at. I see that the RPM is zero but not sure where to look for cam and crank signals.

Garman

It seems like everyone who has had this issue downloads an updated firmware and then they stop posting. I’m assuming the firmware fixed their issue. I downloaded the Microsquirt firmware. Is there another firmware version I should be using instead?

I’m afraid to just start swapping firmware because I read that using the wrong firmware can fry your ignition.

Can anyone point me in the right direction on which firmware I should be using for my build version?

Thanks

SpartanSV

Forget the firmware change for now. It's not likely to be your issue.

Do a composite log as already suggested.

Garman

My first post has my composite log attached. I attached my tune and composite log. I’m pretty sure the .msl file is a composite log, correct?

SpartanSV

Nope.

Garman

****. Okay.

I’ll have to figure out how to do that tomorrow.

Garman

Okay. I see what the composite log is now. I’ll log and post it up tomorrow.

I appreciate the help.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

You are on the right track

Garman

I should be back at it this weekend. I'll get that composite log up by Saturday.

Garman

Here’s a photo of my composite log.

Garman

Here's the composite log file.

SpartanSV

Missing cam signal.

What year miata was this ECU built for? What alternator are you running? What harness are you running?

Garman

It was built for a 99 which is the same as mine. I’ve got the original 99 harness.

Garman

I’ve got the stock alternator I think.

Garman

SpartanSV

I've only built a MS3. I don't really have any experience with MS2. I believe MS2 does not support alternator control which means you'll have issues with a NB alternator

Edit: To clarify, I believe the lack of alternator control applies to a DIYPNP. Which is what you have. A MS2PNP has a separate circuit for alternator control. That's why I'm a bit suspicious of this ecu being built for a 99 chassis.

Garman

Mine has the alternator control board but I’m not sure if I need to do anything to get it working. It has a tuneable pot for adjustment.