200hp is is possible or i am dreaming
04-07-2009, 01:09 PM
#25
On every car I've ever owned. I generally don't since I do the clutch jobs myself, if it's in a shop you might as well pay the little bit extra.
You have to make that call based on mileage and treatment. If you're on stock power, and below 150K miles, I'd just slap a clutch on there unless you get in and notice some ugly "hot spotting."
If you really want a lightweight flywheel, this guys got one:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t32310/
Pretty indicative what they run, the benefits are really only slightly quicker free rev as far as I'm concerned. I pulled out my A/C and PS, but have never felt the need for a lightweight flywheel.
You have to make that call based on mileage and treatment. If you're on stock power, and below 150K miles, I'd just slap a clutch on there unless you get in and notice some ugly "hot spotting."
If you really want a lightweight flywheel, this guys got one:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t32310/
Pretty indicative what they run, the benefits are really only slightly quicker free rev as far as I'm concerned. I pulled out my A/C and PS, but have never felt the need for a lightweight flywheel.
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04-07-2009, 07:01 PM
#28
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Is anyone making 200rwhp with a 2554 at 12psi or less on a 1.6?
It should be do-able if you do everything right like a better downpipe, exhaust, and big IC, great tune but we're talking about the s-kit downpipe right?
It should be do-able if you do everything right like a better downpipe, exhaust, and big IC, great tune but we're talking about the s-kit downpipe right?
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04-07-2009, 07:35 PM
#29
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i would try to find a totaled NB and snag the six speed and diff actually the whole drive train then just grab an ebay six puck there dirt cheap and should be good for that hp for a while. or if your strapped for cash just 94+ torsen and a clutch then you should be good for around 240hp
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04-07-2009, 08:46 PM
#33
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So if i am shopping for a clutch i should be looking for a 1.6l clutch correct? But i if decide to go with a new flywheel i should get a 1.8l flywheel and 1.8l clutch?
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04-07-2009, 08:51 PM
#34
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If you are looking to go with a new/lighter flywheel you should take the opportunity to step up to the 1.8 because almost definitely your power plans are gonna change and 200rwhp ain't gonna be enough anymore.
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04-07-2009, 08:59 PM
#35
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eBay Motors: Miata 90-93 1.6l F1Racing Stage One Clutch + Flywheel!! (item 330320632281 end time Apr-12-09 14:39:05 PDT)
Crap or good deal. I just really cant justify replacing the clutch and not replacing the flywheel. I dont want to get a that common idle drop when getting of the gas.
Crap or good deal. I just really cant justify replacing the clutch and not replacing the flywheel. I dont want to get a that common idle drop when getting of the gas.
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04-07-2009, 09:39 PM
#39
Rushin, listen to me.
The stock 6" ring&pinion is very survivable at 200whp on stock'ish street rubber if you respect it. No drifting or dragging.
The stock 5spd is fine for the limits of the GT2554r. Put a 6-spd out of your mind for now. Yes, they're stronger, but the gearing is a lot shorter. There's a reason they all came with a 3.9 final drive. 1st and 2nd are useless with any power and 4.3... impractical at best with a 4.1.
Do not buy an eBay clutch (NO, DON'T DO IT!). This is the clutch you want: Flyin' Miata : Engine/Drivetrain : Transmission : FM Level 1 clutch
Lightweight flywheels suck on the street and are not worth the minor gain in your stoplight rev-game, IMHO. If you've never driven one, then you need to before you spend the money. If you must have one because your Honda buddies all do, then simply have a stock one shaved. You'll need an OEM 1.8 flywheel ($40) to mate with that clutch, and machine work is about $75 to shave it. Shaving the stock steel flywheel means you'll never have to buy another one. Buying any aluminum one or an eBay special almost certainly guarantees you'll be in there again, possibly before the clutch gets old.
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04-07-2009, 10:46 PM
#40
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6-spds go for about $600... $1000 for an MSM. 3.9 Torsen swaps go for $1000... which is what you need minimum with a 6-spd. So you're saying it's a good idea to go with a $150 known-to-suck-and-fail-all-the-time puck'd clutch after you possibly spend $2k on the rest?
Rushin, listen to me.
The stock 6" ring&pinion is very survivable at 200whp on stock'ish street rubber if you respect it. No drifting or dragging.
The stock 5spd is fine for the limits of the GT2554r. Put a 6-spd out of your mind for now. Yes, they're stronger, but the gearing is a lot shorter. There's a reason they all came with a 3.9 final drive. 1st and 2nd are useless with any power and 4.3... impractical at best with a 4.1.
Do not buy an eBay clutch (NO, DON'T DO IT!). This is the clutch you want: Flyin' Miata : Engine/Drivetrain : Transmission : FM Level 1 clutch
Lightweight flywheels suck on the street and are not worth the minor gain in your stoplight rev-game, IMHO. If you've never driven one, then you need to before you spend the money. If you must have one because your Honda buddies all do, then simply have a stock one shaved. You'll need an OEM 1.8 flywheel ($40) to mate with that clutch, and machine work is about $75 to shave it. Shaving the stock steel flywheel means you'll never have to buy another one. Buying any aluminum one or an eBay special almost certainly guarantees you'll be in there again, possibly before the clutch gets old.
Rushin, listen to me.
The stock 6" ring&pinion is very survivable at 200whp on stock'ish street rubber if you respect it. No drifting or dragging.
The stock 5spd is fine for the limits of the GT2554r. Put a 6-spd out of your mind for now. Yes, they're stronger, but the gearing is a lot shorter. There's a reason they all came with a 3.9 final drive. 1st and 2nd are useless with any power and 4.3... impractical at best with a 4.1.
Do not buy an eBay clutch (NO, DON'T DO IT!). This is the clutch you want: Flyin' Miata : Engine/Drivetrain : Transmission : FM Level 1 clutch
Lightweight flywheels suck on the street and are not worth the minor gain in your stoplight rev-game, IMHO. If you've never driven one, then you need to before you spend the money. If you must have one because your Honda buddies all do, then simply have a stock one shaved. You'll need an OEM 1.8 flywheel ($40) to mate with that clutch, and machine work is about $75 to shave it. Shaving the stock steel flywheel means you'll never have to buy another one. Buying any aluminum one or an eBay special almost certainly guarantees you'll be in there again, possibly before the clutch gets old.
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