200hp is is possible or i am dreaming
04-06-2009, 10:51 PM
#1
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200hp is is possible or i am dreaming
Hey Everyone.
Got a question. I got a 1990 miata with begi-s kit, diy intercooler, mspnp, and soon will have 600cc injectors. I am planning on running somewhere withing 11-12psi.
I got the car dynoed with stock injectors rough tune and 5psi and i got 150hp.
So will i be able to get close to 200hp with good tune and 600cc injectors at 12 psi?
Granted it will be dynoed on a DynoJEt.
Thanks.
Got a question. I got a 1990 miata with begi-s kit, diy intercooler, mspnp, and soon will have 600cc injectors. I am planning on running somewhere withing 11-12psi.
I got the car dynoed with stock injectors rough tune and 5psi and i got 150hp.
So will i be able to get close to 200hp with good tune and 600cc injectors at 12 psi?
Granted it will be dynoed on a DynoJEt.
Thanks.
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04-06-2009, 10:53 PM
#2
Hey Everyone.
Got a question. I got a 1990 miata with begi-s kit, diy intercooler, mspnp, and soon will have 600cc injectors. I am planning on running somewhere withing 11-12psi.
I got the car dynoed with stock injectors rough tune and 5psi and i got 150hp.
So will i be able to get close to 200hp with good tune and 600cc injectors at 12 psi?
Granted it will be dynoed on a DynoJEt.
Thanks.
Got a question. I got a 1990 miata with begi-s kit, diy intercooler, mspnp, and soon will have 600cc injectors. I am planning on running somewhere withing 11-12psi.
I got the car dynoed with stock injectors rough tune and 5psi and i got 150hp.
So will i be able to get close to 200hp with good tune and 600cc injectors at 12 psi?
Granted it will be dynoed on a DynoJEt.
Thanks.
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04-06-2009, 11:11 PM
#7
You'll be able to make the power no sweat. (barring unforeseen or undisclosed issues or limitations with your setup)
As for the clutch and rear, the clutch won't be able to take it, will begin to slip soon most likely. The slipping clutch will help to cushion the rear end, so once you change it, the rear end's a time bomb. Kinda depends on how you treat it.
As for the clutch and rear, the clutch won't be able to take it, will begin to slip soon most likely. The slipping clutch will help to cushion the rear end, so once you change it, the rear end's a time bomb. Kinda depends on how you treat it.
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04-06-2009, 11:15 PM
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You'll be able to make the power no sweat. (barring unforeseen or undisclosed issues or limitations with your setup)
As for the clutch and rear, the clutch won't be able to take it, will begin to slip soon most likely. The slipping clutch will help to cushion the rear end, so once you change it, the rear end's a time bomb. Kinda depends on how you treat it.
As for the clutch and rear, the clutch won't be able to take it, will begin to slip soon most likely. The slipping clutch will help to cushion the rear end, so once you change it, the rear end's a time bomb. Kinda depends on how you treat it.
. Will the rear end hold up for a while. I am just trying to figure out if it will blow up right on the dyno
. If it does break is it usually just breaks so you cant drive anymore or its a violent kind of that that can get me into an accident.
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04-06-2009, 11:27 PM
#11
You're not gonna see 200whp on any dyno on the stock clutch... not even a fresh stock 1.8clutch. You're really not gonna see any torque either. Nearing 150ftlbs or less, it's gonna let loose.
If you don't drag or drift, and you treat the stock dif with some level of understanding, then you can get it to last quite a long time. I ran 200whp+ for about 20k miles on my stock dif. I wasn't exactly sweet to it, but I didn't purposely attempt to hurt it.
Are you running the GT2554r and is your Magnaflow a 2.5"?
If you don't drag or drift, and you treat the stock dif with some level of understanding, then you can get it to last quite a long time. I ran 200whp+ for about 20k miles on my stock dif. I wasn't exactly sweet to it, but I didn't purposely attempt to hurt it.
Are you running the GT2554r and is your Magnaflow a 2.5"?
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04-06-2009, 11:29 PM
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You're not gonna see 200whp on any dyno on the stock clutch... not even a fresh stock 1.8clutch. You're really not gonna see any torque either. Nearing 150ftlbs or less, it's gonna let loose.
If you don't drag or drift, and you treat the stock dif with some level of understanding, then you can get it to last quite a long time. I ran 200whp+ for about 20k miles on my stock dif. I wasn't exactly sweet to it, but I didn't purposely attempt to hurt it.
If you don't drag or drift, and you treat the stock dif with some level of understanding, then you can get it to last quite a long time. I ran 200whp+ for about 20k miles on my stock dif. I wasn't exactly sweet to it, but I didn't purposely attempt to hurt it.
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04-07-2009, 12:30 AM
#15
lol grab a ebay clutch and be on the look out for a 1.8 dif to swap into your car i made more than 200 whp no problem on my DIY kit with a whole lot less hardware and support than you have. Hell i was on stock ecu 
It sounds like u are aproaching this carefully wich is good but given that you educate yourself on what we have here for you on this site. You can take pride in knowing that you should be able to confidently make a very nice fast car that you enjoy to the fullist.
eBay Motors: XTD® STAGE 3 RACING CLUTCH- 90 91 92 93 MIATA 1.6L (item 350187611310 end time Apr-16-09 12:29:22 PDT) IT is cheap it works and you will need a clutch sooner or later anyway. Given good tunning 200 whp can be seen sub 10 psi my 1.6 was nothing special and it managed just fine.
It sounds like u are aproaching this carefully wich is good but given that you educate yourself on what we have here for you on this site. You can take pride in knowing that you should be able to confidently make a very nice fast car that you enjoy to the fullist.eBay Motors: XTD® STAGE 3 RACING CLUTCH- 90 91 92 93 MIATA 1.6L (item 350187611310 end time Apr-16-09 12:29:22 PDT) IT is cheap it works and you will need a clutch sooner or later anyway. Given good tunning 200 whp can be seen sub 10 psi my 1.6 was nothing special and it managed just fine.
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04-07-2009, 09:14 AM
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Post the plot.
It's an uphill battle with the 2554 to maintain torque to redline. You made around 110rwtq @ 6800RPM to make 150rwhp, you need to make 155rwtq to achieve 200rwhp.
I made 170rwhp at 6psi, yet I could barely make 200rwhp at 12psi with my larger turbo....
btw:
your turbo = 240BHP
your injectors = 370BHP
It's an uphill battle with the 2554 to maintain torque to redline. You made around 110rwtq @ 6800RPM to make 150rwhp, you need to make 155rwtq to achieve 200rwhp.
I made 170rwhp at 6psi, yet I could barely make 200rwhp at 12psi with my larger turbo....
btw:
your turbo = 240BHP
your injectors = 370BHP
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04-07-2009, 12:10 PM
#18
Rushin, I think the bottom line here is that your setup (with the exception of the clutch) will cover you to the limits of the turbo. IE, if the clutch will hold (which it won't) just keep turning up the boost until you hit the power you want. It will be at least 12psi, possibly as much as 14-15psi depending on how good your operator is with tuning the fuel map, and which timing map you're gonna use.
Also, are you starting with the DIY supplied Spark Table. If so, it's pretty tame. Here's a thread https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t18648/ you need to read before you hit the dyno. There are guys running upwards of 30*advance in the upper cells while others are running 10*... lots of room for tuning. If you've got EGT and KNOCK sensors, then it's just a matter of money and how long you have the dyno for. If you'd like something that other people have done the work on, pick the spark table you like from that thread and load it up... that's what I did. I forget which one I sold the car with, but it was probably the Paul-Hybrid. A lot of guys new to turbo's and tuning underrate timing... it's worth a lot of power when tuned right. READ THAT WHOLE THREAD, IT WILL MAKE YOU SMART!
Also, are you starting with the DIY supplied Spark Table. If so, it's pretty tame. Here's a thread https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t18648/ you need to read before you hit the dyno. There are guys running upwards of 30*advance in the upper cells while others are running 10*... lots of room for tuning. If you've got EGT and KNOCK sensors, then it's just a matter of money and how long you have the dyno for. If you'd like something that other people have done the work on, pick the spark table you like from that thread and load it up... that's what I did. I forget which one I sold the car with, but it was probably the Paul-Hybrid. A lot of guys new to turbo's and tuning underrate timing... it's worth a lot of power when tuned right. READ THAT WHOLE THREAD, IT WILL MAKE YOU SMART!
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04-07-2009, 12:15 PM
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I dont eat dynamite for breakfast.
Thanks for the input.
Rushin, I think the bottom line here is that your setup (with the exception of the clutch) will cover you to the limits of the turbo. IE, if the clutch will hold (which it won't) just keep turning up the boost until you hit the power you want. It will be at least 12psi, possibly as much as 14-15psi depending on how good your operator is with tuning the fuel map, and which timing map you're gonna use.
Also, are you starting with the DIY supplied Spark Table. If so, it's pretty tame. Here's a thread https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t18648/ you need to read before you hit the dyno. There are guys running upwards of 30*advance in the upper cells while others are running 10*... lots of room for tuning. If you've got EGT and KNOCK sensors, then it's just a matter of money and how long you have the dyno for. If you'd like something that other people have done the work on, pick the spark table you like from that thread and load it up... that's what I did. I forget which one I sold the car with, but it was probably the Paul-Hybrid. A lot of guys new to turbo's and tuning underrate timing... it's worth a lot of power when tuned right.
Also, are you starting with the DIY supplied Spark Table. If so, it's pretty tame. Here's a thread https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t18648/ you need to read before you hit the dyno. There are guys running upwards of 30*advance in the upper cells while others are running 10*... lots of room for tuning. If you've got EGT and KNOCK sensors, then it's just a matter of money and how long you have the dyno for. If you'd like something that other people have done the work on, pick the spark table you like from that thread and load it up... that's what I did. I forget which one I sold the car with, but it was probably the Paul-Hybrid. A lot of guys new to turbo's and tuning underrate timing... it's worth a lot of power when tuned right.
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04-07-2009, 12:40 PM
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lol grab a ebay clutch and be on the look out for a 1.8 dif to swap into your car i made more than 200 whp no problem on my DIY kit with a whole lot less hardware and support than you have. Hell i was on stock ecu It sounds like u are aproaching this carefully wich is good but given that you educate yourself on what we have here for you on this site. You can take pride in knowing that you should be able to confidently make a very nice fast car that you enjoy to the fullist.
eBay Motors: XTD® STAGE 3 RACING CLUTCH- 90 91 92 93 MIATA 1.6L (item 350187611310 end time Apr-16-09 12:29:22 PDT) IT is cheap it works and you will need a clutch sooner or later anyway. Given good tunning 200 whp can be seen sub 10 psi my 1.6 was nothing special and it managed just fine.
It sounds like u are aproaching this carefully wich is good but given that you educate yourself on what we have here for you on this site. You can take pride in knowing that you should be able to confidently make a very nice fast car that you enjoy to the fullist.eBay Motors: XTD® STAGE 3 RACING CLUTCH- 90 91 92 93 MIATA 1.6L (item 350187611310 end time Apr-16-09 12:29:22 PDT) IT is cheap it works and you will need a clutch sooner or later anyway. Given good tunning 200 whp can be seen sub 10 psi my 1.6 was nothing special and it managed just fine.
Thanks, Taras
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