Anybody running a newer FMII kit? Thoughts on the manifold?
#1
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Anybody running a newer FMII kit? Thoughts on the manifold?
Better yet, is there anyone that has pics and / or experience with the current FM design and that of BEGI? The Absurdflow replacement for these? I know there aren't many of Tim's out there.
I was all set on getting an Absurdflow BEGI/FM replacement manifold but a couple of things have me second-guessing.
-Tubulars generally aren't as long lived as cast units and Tim is now doing a 2 year warranty instead of lifetime. (I don't blame him, but it may affect my decision).
-The Solidworks (I assume) images on FM's site look like there may be some internal flow management / diverter at the outlet on the FM mani? Otherwise it looks to my very untrained eye to be a sort of "cast tubular" design. Am I way off base on this?
(Caption: "We paid attention to inernal flow.")
I'm hoping to be in the 240-250 rwhp range so I know any of these will be fine with a gt2560. I was just hoping to get the best spool possible, in a reliable package.
Please don't turn this into an FM/BEGI is better than BEGI/FM thing. I like the contributions Tim Fodor has made to the community. He has proven his knowledge and skill, and I would like to buy from him. There are of course, other factors. I just don't want to pay more for something that is likely to not be as long lived unless there's a significant performance advantage.
My Miata is a street toy that I autocross and may do some HPDE stuff with once it's sorted to my satisfaction. Not looking to build a serious engine or tinker too much once I'm happy with it.
I was all set on getting an Absurdflow BEGI/FM replacement manifold but a couple of things have me second-guessing.
-Tubulars generally aren't as long lived as cast units and Tim is now doing a 2 year warranty instead of lifetime. (I don't blame him, but it may affect my decision).
-The Solidworks (I assume) images on FM's site look like there may be some internal flow management / diverter at the outlet on the FM mani? Otherwise it looks to my very untrained eye to be a sort of "cast tubular" design. Am I way off base on this?
(Caption: "We paid attention to inernal flow.")
I'm hoping to be in the 240-250 rwhp range so I know any of these will be fine with a gt2560. I was just hoping to get the best spool possible, in a reliable package.
Please don't turn this into an FM/BEGI is better than BEGI/FM thing. I like the contributions Tim Fodor has made to the community. He has proven his knowledge and skill, and I would like to buy from him. There are of course, other factors. I just don't want to pay more for something that is likely to not be as long lived unless there's a significant performance advantage.
My Miata is a street toy that I autocross and may do some HPDE stuff with once it's sorted to my satisfaction. Not looking to build a serious engine or tinker too much once I'm happy with it.
Last edited by soloracer; 04-22-2010 at 10:15 AM. Reason: typo
#3
Go with tim's manifold and you wont be disapointed. He makes those tubular manifolds out of schedule 40 steel which is near indestructible. If you're worried about it not lasting, put a brace on it and it will last forever. If you're the least bit concerned about flow you'll go with Tim's design.
Besides, his newest BEGi/FM replacement manifold is just a work of art. When was the last time you saw a cast manifold and thought "man, that looks awesome!"
Besides, his newest BEGi/FM replacement manifold is just a work of art. When was the last time you saw a cast manifold and thought "man, that looks awesome!"
#6
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My AF manufeould is still very alive and lasted several track events longer than the cast piece (which is recently surfaced and available with the begi DP for $500 in the classifieds).
#7
I'm not saying that he did. But if he didn't, then why not just deny it?
#8
http://www.turbotimmurderedagirlwithchuckyz.com
I'm not saying that he did. But if he didn't, then why not just deny it?
I'm not saying that he did. But if he didn't, then why not just deny it?
#10
OP -
In all seriousness, I would stick with your initial thought of going with Tim's manifold. While the FM design is definitely better than a traditional log style manifold, it just cant compete with a true directed port tubular. And like others have mentioned, his **** is built to last, and I have no doubt that it would probably outlast the car.
#12
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So I see a lot of argument for Tim's mani. Trust me, it's what my heart wants...I appreciate fine art. My wallet however wants the FM or BEGI unit.
Brain, you really think that's how the air flows? You have a lot more knowledge than I about it, but it looks like there are internal elements in there that might direct the flow outward and minimize if not prevent the 1-4 crash.
It's OBVIOUS that the BEGI unit accounts for this, so there are no questions to be asked there. I'd love to see something more scientific. Perhaps there's been insufficient testing......
Brain, you really think that's how the air flows? You have a lot more knowledge than I about it, but it looks like there are internal elements in there that might direct the flow outward and minimize if not prevent the 1-4 crash.
It's OBVIOUS that the BEGI unit accounts for this, so there are no questions to be asked there. I'd love to see something more scientific. Perhaps there's been insufficient testing......
#17
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If durability is your #1 priority above all else, go with a cast manifold.
#18
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No kidding. Like I said, I get it.
I never would have considered a tubular before yours at all, but they seem to be well built. All told, I'm looking at somewhere around a $400-500 difference between your piece and an FM 'kit' with their mani. I don't mind the price difference if the thing lasts me 5 years and provides a noticeable performance (spool) benefit.
My real motivation in starting this thread was to find out if anyone had any real analysis of the current FM design. Perhaps I made it too personal. I was kind of hoping somebody had a good pic of the inside of one of those units, or some real data on them.
I never would have considered a tubular before yours at all, but they seem to be well built. All told, I'm looking at somewhere around a $400-500 difference between your piece and an FM 'kit' with their mani. I don't mind the price difference if the thing lasts me 5 years and provides a noticeable performance (spool) benefit.
My real motivation in starting this thread was to find out if anyone had any real analysis of the current FM design. Perhaps I made it too personal. I was kind of hoping somebody had a good pic of the inside of one of those units, or some real data on them.
#19
Personally I am doing the mental shopping thing all the time right now. And just my .02, but I look at it like this:
What do I get for spending x more dollars?
You can get a basic decent cast Begi/FM type mani for about 400 bucks IIRC. Which will not have a EWG provision.
You can get a quality tubular from a memeber here starting at around 600, maybe a bit more, maybe a bit less IIRC.
Pretty much everyone who has really talked about these units has done a great amount of track abuse but also does some street driving too. And they swear by a quality tubular. And not just for power, but for a much lower boost threshold and durability, which is usually the #2 problem people have with a tubular after price.
For me, personally, I will spend the extra 200 bucks to get better boost threshold by at least a few hundred RPM, better spool, another 10-20 (or more?) WHP and a proper EWG. 200 bucks more for those benies is about as cheap as anyone even in the age of Ebay can hope for. Excellent service from AF, Wayne Curr, or ARTECH is icing on the cake.
Just MHO. And by the way, I am cheap. Like really cheap. Like single ply TP and Old Milwaukee cheap.
What do I get for spending x more dollars?
You can get a basic decent cast Begi/FM type mani for about 400 bucks IIRC. Which will not have a EWG provision.
You can get a quality tubular from a memeber here starting at around 600, maybe a bit more, maybe a bit less IIRC.
Pretty much everyone who has really talked about these units has done a great amount of track abuse but also does some street driving too. And they swear by a quality tubular. And not just for power, but for a much lower boost threshold and durability, which is usually the #2 problem people have with a tubular after price.
For me, personally, I will spend the extra 200 bucks to get better boost threshold by at least a few hundred RPM, better spool, another 10-20 (or more?) WHP and a proper EWG. 200 bucks more for those benies is about as cheap as anyone even in the age of Ebay can hope for. Excellent service from AF, Wayne Curr, or ARTECH is icing on the cake.
Just MHO. And by the way, I am cheap. Like really cheap. Like single ply TP and Old Milwaukee cheap.