Dlaitini

with my greddy, i had to grind some rough spots on the downpipe and make cuts in the manifold

is there anything that needs modifed on the begi-s kit before i install?

harleybutter

iTrader: (34)

Which level kit?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

-S like he said.

Shouldn't require any extra effort on your part other than installing it.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Maybe seafoam your engine before hand?

Ben

iTrader: (33)

just normal stuff like make sure your plugs and wires are good, fill tank with premium, etc

budget racer

iTrader: (1)

make sure the O2 bungs are in the right location. other than that it is a pretty simple install.

Prospero

BEGi-S install is a piece of cake. Just have a tank of the highest octane you can get, already in the car and with a few miles on it.

If you're done driving the car and ready for tear down... I suggest over filling the oil by a quart or two so when you drill the oil drain hole you will have slightly less opportunity to get shavings in the mix.

On my kit there was no cutting needed... it was simple as pie. Only advice I have is regarding heat shielding. Once you have all the parts off the car, I would then start installing the heat shielding and go out and buy extra. Just cover as much as you can over by the brake lines and whatnot. Just getting the heater hoses is sorta minimal IMHO. Additionally I used stainless wire ties for a neater and easier install.

Oh, and depending upon how much time you have... start the tear down on a friday night and drill your oil pan the next morning while you're fresh. Don't get half buzzed on beer and then hit your pan with a large drill bit.

Cheers,
Prospero

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

While you've to the entire exhaust system out, I'd swap in new motor mounts. On the intake side, use this as an excuse to remove the stock intake manifold brace. You should also replace your fuel filter just for insurance... easy while the car is jacked up. Don't forget to give the engine and tranny a good cleaning while it's up in the air. Boost has a tendency to exaggerate leaks... if everything is clean, it's easier to tell where your leaks are. A bottle of Simple Green and a roll of paper towels is all you need... or you could use a can of Engine Brite and be done with it quicker... but be sure to do it in the street and HOSE everything thoroughly when you're done. It's also easier to fill your tranny with fluid with the exhaust out of the way... good time for some Redline or Royal Purple.

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

You can read the install thread in my sig which might help a bit.
+1 on the advice given above.
Go slow, think things through. The BEGi instructions have a few parts that are a little off but if you just pay attention and think through what you are doing you will be OK. Go through the checklist and make sure you got all of the parts before you start the install. Give BEGi a call if you get stuck. Sometimes they are even there on Saturdays.
Though the instructions advise that the exhaust manifold gasket (manifold to head) does not need to be replaced, I replaced mine anyway with a NAPA gasket. It is cheap insurance.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

You dont need to remove the intake manifold brace to get the oil pressure sender out if you have a deep socket and some extensions.

Prospero

I used a 24mm deep socket with a good swivel and like 16" of extentions... came in from under the car and found it to be super easy. No need to go from up top unless you're in for the extra work and scratches on your forearm!

Cheers,
Prospero

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Yes, but the manifold brace has been proven to do absolutely nothing except get in the way when you want to work in there. If the entire exhaust system can hang on it's 9 manifold studs, the intake mani can hang on with it's 10? It's just something else on the car not to replace if you ever take it off for some reason.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

I'm not disagreeing with you. But why take it off if you don't have too? Weight savings?

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Ease of future access. Having the bar out of the way makes things like servicing the alternator and starter, the oil filter, etc etc somewhat easier, especially for those of us with big hands.

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

Oh yeah forgot to mention. You might consider adding a BOV to the s-kit. See my sig for an easy, cheap, effective alternative.

I see you have the MSPNP. Are you installing larger injectors? The stock ones will work up to 6-7 psi but they will be at 100%+ duty cycle based on my experience. Larger injectors are a good idea.

Dlaitini

yes i have larger injectors, i also ordered a bypass valve with the kit.

since i have a 97 and it came withthe dummy oil pressure guage, i have converted it to a real oil pressure guage from my old 93 that was wrecked, the dummy sensor is about an inch deep while the real guage is about 3-4 inches long. is it going to interfere with anything when i add the turbo oil supply? (i dont have kit yet, im just going off of the online instructions)

Thanks

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

IIRC there is enough room to accommodate that but I would have to look again to be sure. I used the BEGi t-fitting for the oil supply but added the stock sensor back in. As I remember there was room left in the direction going away from the motor (along the axis of the tapped hole). But I also remember that the oil sensor wire is pretty short so you may have to extend it.

Go to post #10 of my install thread and there is a picture of the sensor area.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...9&postcount=10

TonyV

iTrader: (17)

I thought only the 1.6's get the oil supply from the oil filter area?? On my 1.8 (diy) I followed some instructions showing an existing supply location (no T/sandwich needed) on the exhaust side of the block...right under the heater hoses....I just took the bolt out, put in the fitting and that was that...?

However wait for one of the "turbo elders" to enlighten as I am but a peasant

ZX-Tex

iTrader: (15)

I talked to Corky himself about this during my install. It is on some of the Miatas, but not on my '99. I forget which years have that plugged hole. You can see in the picts in my install (post #3) the area where that existing hole would be; nothing but casting. It can be drilled and tapped, but only with the engine torn down of course. There is a thread about this somewhere here.

compy

In the instructions for the S3, you have to use a rubber mallet to bend the body where the turbo sits to avoid rubbing.