Best "set it and forget it" turbo kit for the money
07-09-2013, 01:17 AM
#62
Elite Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Santa Clara, CA
Posts: 5,165
Total Cats: 855
Start with just the wastegate pressure, that will be around 7-8 psi probably (depends on what wastegate can they put on the turbo -- you might want to call them to check on it). Once you get the system up and running you can worry about adding electronic boost control to assist spoolup or raise the boost above the mechanical level.
Doesn't the MS2 have boost control functionality built in? If so, then you can just use that with a cheap GM boost solenoid, no need for a $300 standalone boost controller.
(I have a standalone GReddy boost controller in my car, but that's because the Hydra's boost control algorithm is pathetic.)
--Ian
Doesn't the MS2 have boost control functionality built in? If so, then you can just use that with a cheap GM boost solenoid, no need for a $300 standalone boost controller.
(I have a standalone GReddy boost controller in my car, but that's because the Hydra's boost control algorithm is pathetic.)
--Ian
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07-09-2013, 11:12 AM
#65
Good choice.
I do not use any fancy boost control, just a nice Hallman MBC and had the turbine WG ported...rock solid boost all day every day. Also, I had to replace my manifold a few years ago and when I ordered a new one from FM, I had them drill/add 10mm studs to the manifold....I have NEVER had a problem with the turbo/manifold studs since then....almost 100k miles later.
I do not use any fancy boost control, just a nice Hallman MBC and had the turbine WG ported...rock solid boost all day every day. Also, I had to replace my manifold a few years ago and when I ordered a new one from FM, I had them drill/add 10mm studs to the manifold....I have NEVER had a problem with the turbo/manifold studs since then....almost 100k miles later.
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07-09-2013, 05:23 PM
#66
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 15,176
Total Cats: 1,680
Hello All,
Thank you for your input. I ended up placing an order with Brandon this morning
FMII No Electronics Kit
Hardline oil/coolant line upgrade
Iconol studs and locks upgrade
Full A-pillar Dual gauge pod upgrade
AEM UEGO Wideband
I have already ordered:
MS DIYPNP
Deatschwerks 600cc Injectors
Exedy Stage 1 Clutch
All I need to order is AEM Truboost gauge/controller
Then further down the line, I'm going to upgrade my radiator and exhaust (currently stock other than Racing Beat muffler)
Thank you for your input. I ended up placing an order with Brandon this morning
FMII No Electronics Kit
Hardline oil/coolant line upgrade
Iconol studs and locks upgrade
Full A-pillar Dual gauge pod upgrade
AEM UEGO Wideband
I have already ordered:
MS DIYPNP
Deatschwerks 600cc Injectors
Exedy Stage 1 Clutch
All I need to order is AEM Truboost gauge/controller
Then further down the line, I'm going to upgrade my radiator and exhaust (currently stock other than Racing Beat muffler)
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07-18-2013, 08:37 AM
#69
Former Vendor
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 271
Total Cats: 11
Guys,
Please don't put the 12.5 air/fuel on me for all situations. Up to a point 12.5 is rich. Then it gets just right. Eventually it turns lean. Depends on octane, boost, and IC efficiency, (charge temp, ultimately)
I work the buns off trying to keep btu's from messing with my day. When it all comes together under the defined conditions, 12.5 is safe and more powerful.
corky
Please don't put the 12.5 air/fuel on me for all situations. Up to a point 12.5 is rich. Then it gets just right. Eventually it turns lean. Depends on octane, boost, and IC efficiency, (charge temp, ultimately)
I work the buns off trying to keep btu's from messing with my day. When it all comes together under the defined conditions, 12.5 is safe and more powerful.
corky
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