frogeyes

iTrader: (1)

got my greddy kit fitted yesterday and have been playing about with it since

turbine.jpg

now, im running 12 degrees timing, using the bipes to retard it 6 degrees when needed. does that sound ok to you guys?

the other thing is i get a metallic rattling sound in higher revs and again when i back off, is this the wastegate rod? it does seem quite loose, ill be ok to tighten it up yeah? i mean the vortech fpr should be able to deal with the increase in boost?

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

yeah the rattling is most likely the actuator rod

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

when you hear said noise, does your oil pressure gauge go crazy?

but typically that noise goes hand and hand with the GReddy's loose wastegate arm.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Your Bipes settings are fine, maybe even a little conservative.
What's the best octane/RON gasoline you have?

We have 93 here, and I was running 14*base pulling 7* @12psi intercooled.
With just 5-6psi (even non-intercooled), you can probably bump up your timing by a degree or two, and pull just a bit less out if you've got good gas.

Listen for knock on really hot days and watch your oil-pressure gauge.

And, I don't know what's in that plastic bottle bolted to the firewall next to the turbine housing, but it's gonna melt and make a mess. It looks like window-washer fluid.

Edit: AHA! That car is RHD, I can see the brake master cylinder on the passenger side, that's why the washer bottle is where it is... gonna melt.

frogeyes

iTrader: (1)

im on 99ron fuel, although i think UK and US ratings are different?

i tightened the actuator rod and its not rattling, also according to my boost gauge im making a touch over 6psi.

there is a faint rattle at high revs, sounds like its coming from the other side of the engine??

your right it is washer fluid in that bottle. i heatwrapped the downpipe. so far no signs of melting haha

y8s

iTrader: (8)

the rattling sound like pennies in a can being shaken? if it does, it means imminent death of your motor. it's detonation.

frogeyes

iTrader: (1)

yeah thats the one.

need to back off the timing??

y8s

iTrader: (8)

uhhhh yes.

frogeyes

iTrader: (1)

O
K

mike_671

iTrader: (4)

another thing that hose that comes off your valve cover into your pipe before your turbo. make sure thats the factory hose where it has a screen or something inside there to catch the oil..otherwise your turbo will be sucking up oil. i just put a little filter there( like alot of people do) and then cap off the pipe.

LOOINEY

You might want to move your FMU off of the brake line.. Down the road it might wear through fromt he vibrations.

frogeyes

iTrader: (1)

yeah im working on making up a bracket for it just now

i have ordered a breather filter for the cam cover, where would i find blank plugs for the intake pipe to blank it off?

mike_671

iTrader: (4)

an auto part store just have caps to cap that off. i just had something laying around that fit perfect. but iv seen caps at napa and at home depot

ThePass

iTrader: (3)

Why do you need to alter how the pipe is run from the valve cover over to the intake pipe by the tb when you add the turbo/why did you run a hose from the vc to the pre-turbo pipe instead?
-Ryan

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Because the black crossover pipe is now going to have BOOST running through it. When that boost pushes air INTO the valve cover rather than sucking air OUT of it, you'll pressurize the space. That space is connected to the crankcase via long holes drilled completely through the head and the block around the cylinders for oil to drain. Pressurizing the crankcase is bad.

The intake pipe between the MAF and turbo is always under vaccum.

frogeyes

iTrader: (1)

glad i got that sorted then, fitted a small breather filter to the cam cover and blanked the small pipe on the intake pipe

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Your "detonation" might not be detonation. If you get the same noise on deceleration as well, then it's a rattling wastegate rod. If your oil pressure gauge starts to twitch back and forth at WOT in boost, though, then you need to back the base timing off.

Or throw a few gallons of 100 at it, and if that solves the problem, then it's detonation.

frogeyes

iTrader: (1)

yeah ive noticed the oil gauge twitch at WOT :(

i think my problem is im not setting the timing correctly, the instructions i got with it are pretty confusing!

this is what im using http://www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?item=3442&cat=662

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

That's the right tool to use.
Do this when the car is warm.

Connect the inductive pickup to the #1 cylinder.
Connect the black wire to any metal part of the engine.
Connect the red wire to 12vlt. US spec Miatas have a small blue electrical connector on the drivers side fender behind the headlight that is switched 12vlt. Remove the connector cap and use it.

Open diagnostics port and jumper 10-GND.
Set idle to 850rpm via idle adjust screw on intake manifold.

Aim timing light at crank pulley and pull trigger.

You will see a small dot somewhere along the timing plate... 10* is stock and is labeled. Up the crank is higher timing and down the crank is lower timing.

On the back of the valve cover is the CAS. There is one bolt holding the CAS in place (I think it's 10mm) and is very accessible. Loose the bolt SLIGHTLY!!! The entire CAS can now rotate... so rotate it until 10* (or whatever) is achieved. Then tighten bolt and remove jumper wire (paperclip is the best thing to use).

Here's a writeup w/pictures:
http://www.miata.net/garage/ignition.html