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EPIC nuts/studs loosening thread (reposting stupid stuff without reading = warning)

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Old 09-04-2009, 10:10 AM
  #661  
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I have found in the past working on my old SR20DET that Nissan uses something to hold the nuts in place. If you can find a way to COMPLETELY secure the studs from backing out you should be good to go and would not have to drill for safety wire. Attached is an image of the part I am talking about at Step #2 of Disassembly. Take it from me... Even with the manifold off the engine this thing was a PITA to remove so I could get at the nuts to remove my T25. The idea is that the tabs bend up onto and over the nuts to hold them in place and prevent turning altogether. Worked quite well on my SR. Just a new idea to pass you guys way... This is T2 specific, however I don't see it being VERY hard to make one off any/all applications.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
Turbo Nuts Lock Mechanism.pdf (87.3 KB, 49 views)
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Old 09-04-2009, 10:30 AM
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^ The Nissan part you speak of has been mentioned many times in this post....
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Old 09-04-2009, 11:27 AM
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Who is it that sells the thick ss gasket in t3 size?
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Old 09-04-2009, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
I'm trying to ask logical, thoughtful questions, and not pick on anybody...

...except Caterpillar.
Nice.
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Old 09-04-2009, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by neogenesis2004
Who is it that sells the thick ss gasket in t3 size?
T3 Turbo Inlet Gasket - CI Motorsports
Use the dropdown next to the price to select the stainless one.
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Old 09-04-2009, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
^ The Nissan part you speak of has been mentioned many times in this post....
I had a feeling it may have been... Just WAY too many pages to go through to check.
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Old 09-04-2009, 11:39 PM
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Don't be a search *****.
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Old 09-05-2009, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by SolarYellow510


Don't be a search *****.
You'd think I'd have seen this before. Thanks. Now I need "search this thread for posts by"
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Old 09-05-2009, 09:10 AM
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I can't believe you idiots are still trying to figure this **** out. It was outted a dozen pages ago.
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Old 09-05-2009, 02:18 PM
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Really? I missed the post where someone who didn't weld the turbo to the manifold said, "This is what I did and I've beaten on it for five track days at sub-SM lap times and everything's held."
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Old 09-05-2009, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by SolarYellow510
Really? I missed the post where someone who didn't weld the turbo to the manifold said, "This is what I did and I've beaten on it for five track days at sub-SM lap times and everything's held."
change the metal or buy v-bands. /thread
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Old 09-05-2009, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by SolarYellow510
I'm just proposing that someone use a gasket that has been proven to work for other cars using the same turbo with a cast iron manifold, use quality fasteners of trustworthy origin, and install them according to the manufacturer's recommendations. I've searched this thread for "gasket" repeatedly, and not found a post where that's been shown to not work.
Well, here's your example. I tried a gasket (sourced from ATP) in late 2007, the nuts backed out, the flanges came loose, the gasket blew out, and no matter how tight I got the nuts it never sealed up again. Removed the gasket, new hardware, new nuts, sealed up (until my next track day).

Originally Posted by SolarYellow510
My turbo will be installed with OE gaskets, JIS flange bolts, OE Toyota studs where applicable and OE Toyota lock nuts, with a decent grade of anti-seize applied.
Cool. Bring tools to the track with you - I would suggest two box wrenches in the size your nuts come in, so when one of them gets too hot to hold you can use the other.

Originally Posted by SolarYellow510
Really? I missed the post where someone who didn't weld the turbo to the manifold said, "This is what I did and I've beaten on it for five track days at sub-SM lap times and everything's held."
The welding that Spookyfish did serves the same purpose as the safety wire job I did - the nuts and studs cannot move in relation to each other, period. The difference is he used Resbond and 304SS studs, and I don't think anyone else has tried it. He's on his 5th track day, no plastic deformation of studs, which is more than 98% of the people in this thread can say.

Originally Posted by SolarYellow510

I've worked with modified cars my entire adult life, and never seen this problem on any widespread basis. I have trouble believing that Miatas operate in some sort of singularity in the time-space continuum where what works for everyone else won't work for them. I'm not trying to come up with crazy new moon-shot ideas. I'm actually working in the opposite direction.
Translation: "I think you're all wrong, even though I have absolutely no experience with this problem, and instead of following the empirical data presented in this thread I am going to suggest the same stupid bullshit that has failed in the past"

Last edited by Savington; 09-05-2009 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 09-05-2009, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by AbeFM
You'd think I'd have seen this before. Thanks. Now I need "search this thread for posts by"
"advanced search" -> "search posts by"
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Old 09-07-2009, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington
I would suggest two box wrenches in the size your nuts come in...
The welding that Spookyfish did serves the same purpose as the safety wire job I did
Sav for President.
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Old 09-07-2009, 04:57 PM
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SAFETY WIRE STARTER KIT from Aircraft Spruce
Im going with 308L SS 10mm tru bolts,safety wired,.1875"thick washers,locknuts and these lock plates.I think I will not have a problem.with occasional track and daily driver use.
-G-
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Old 09-07-2009, 06:06 PM
  #676  
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I already told you idiots to get an inconel gasket from "twins," but you're all to stupid to listen to me... Which is another reason why your girlfriends will never want you like they want me.
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Old 09-07-2009, 06:45 PM
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I hand lapped my mating surfaces with a hard stone,they are dead flat.I dont need a gasket.
-G-
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Old 09-08-2009, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Reverend Greg
I hand lapped my mating surfaces with a hard stone,they are dead flat. I won't need a gasket until I've beat it on the track a few times and the surfaces warp.
-G-
I'm going to try the famed Hustler Iconel gaskets along with Belleville washers. Have never had a problem at the head, it's been the mani/turbo/dp connections that have given me trouble.
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Old 09-08-2009, 10:41 PM
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How many people here would be interested in an Inconel hardware setup? M10 studs, correct lengths, with nuts. Reasonable costs, although I need to get a quote on the specific alloy before discussing a more exact number. Under $200 for sure, probably well under that.

If there is some interest, I'll get a set for testing, borrow someone's turbo car, and go flog it for a weekend somewhere, just to make sure they will solve the problem.
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Old 09-08-2009, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington
How many people here would be interested in an Inconel hardware setup? M10 studs, correct lengths, with nuts. Reasonable costs, although I need to get a quote on the specific alloy before discussing a more exact number. Under $200 for sure, probably well under that.

If there is some interest, I'll get a set for testing, borrow someone's turbo car, and go flog it for a weekend somewhere, just to make sure they will solve the problem.
I volunteer Nicks car... lol
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