EPIC nuts/studs loosening thread (reposting stupid stuff without reading = warning)
#1261
Sorry bud. Not perfect. The issues are with the firesleeve:
1. Should be a stainless steel clamp securing the end of the firesleeve (looks like a zip tie in your picture!);
2. The frayed fiberglass at the cut end of the firesleeve should be finished with Red RTV to prevent wicking of combustibles into the firesleeve; and
3. You need a refill.
I only mention this because I care.
BTW, download approved aircraft repair and alteration practices here (FAA AC 43-13-1B):
AC 43.13-1B CHG 1 [Large AC. This includes Change 1.] Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices - Aircraft Inspection and Repair
Safety wiring covered in Chapter 7 Section 7.
7 minute firesleeving video here: EAA Video Player - Your Source for Aviation Videos
1. Should be a stainless steel clamp securing the end of the firesleeve (looks like a zip tie in your picture!);
2. The frayed fiberglass at the cut end of the firesleeve should be finished with Red RTV to prevent wicking of combustibles into the firesleeve; and
3. You need a refill.
I only mention this because I care.
BTW, download approved aircraft repair and alteration practices here (FAA AC 43-13-1B):
AC 43.13-1B CHG 1 [Large AC. This includes Change 1.] Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices - Aircraft Inspection and Repair
Safety wiring covered in Chapter 7 Section 7.
7 minute firesleeving video here: EAA Video Player - Your Source for Aviation Videos
#1262
We use this ones and had never trouble with loosening Bolts or Nuts.
I.L. Motorsport - MX-5 Tuning, Zubehr und Ersatzteile
I.L. Motorsport - MX-5 Tuning, Zubehr und Ersatzteile
#1263
We use this ones and had never trouble with loosening Bolts or Nuts.
I.L. Motorsport - MX-5 Tuning, Zubehr und Ersatzteile
I.L. Motorsport - MX-5 Tuning, Zubehr und Ersatzteile
Grade8 hardware isn't terrible expensive and it absolutely will not move. Why seek other options when you can buy perfection?
-Zach
#1266
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
Sorry bud. Not perfect. The issues are with the firesleeve:
1. Should be a stainless steel clamp securing the end of the firesleeve (looks like a zip tie in your picture!);
2. The frayed fiberglass at the cut end of the firesleeve should be finished with Red RTV to prevent wicking of combustibles into the firesleeve; and
3. You need a refill.
I only mention this because I care.
BTW, download approved aircraft repair and alteration practices here (FAA AC 43-13-1B):
AC 43.13-1B CHG 1 [Large AC. This includes Change 1.] Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices - Aircraft Inspection and Repair
Safety wiring covered in Chapter 7 Section 7.
7 minute firesleeving video here: EAA Video Player - Your Source for Aviation Videos
1. Should be a stainless steel clamp securing the end of the firesleeve (looks like a zip tie in your picture!);
2. The frayed fiberglass at the cut end of the firesleeve should be finished with Red RTV to prevent wicking of combustibles into the firesleeve; and
3. You need a refill.
I only mention this because I care.
BTW, download approved aircraft repair and alteration practices here (FAA AC 43-13-1B):
AC 43.13-1B CHG 1 [Large AC. This includes Change 1.] Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices - Aircraft Inspection and Repair
Safety wiring covered in Chapter 7 Section 7.
7 minute firesleeving video here: EAA Video Player - Your Source for Aviation Videos
#1267
The M10 Inc Nut has 12mm height, 17mm width at the collar and 14mm wrench size.
The M8 Inc Nut has 11mm height, 15mm width at the collar and 12mm wrench size.
A normal M10 copper nut (Thermag-Nut) without collar has 10,5 height and 15mm width.
I used it on a T3, GT2860RS and the IL Turbo housing. T3 no problem, GT2860RS and IL Turbo you have to dremel the housing a bit for the two nuts on the WG-Side of the housing. The nut fits without dremel but you need some space to tighten it.
The M8 Inc Nut has 11mm height, 15mm width at the collar and 12mm wrench size.
A normal M10 copper nut (Thermag-Nut) without collar has 10,5 height and 15mm width.
I used it on a T3, GT2860RS and the IL Turbo housing. T3 no problem, GT2860RS and IL Turbo you have to dremel the housing a bit for the two nuts on the WG-Side of the housing. The nut fits without dremel but you need some space to tighten it.
Last edited by Sandro; 07-30-2012 at 11:13 AM.
#1268
Stupid question- does anything change if you use a nut and bolt instead of a stud and nut? I saw a few pics of setups like that many pages back, but no info on how well they hold up.
Not sure what kind of difference it makes, but since the issue seems to be studs back out of the manifold, I figured it would be worth doing. Also, would washers be necessary in such an application?
Not sure what kind of difference it makes, but since the issue seems to be studs back out of the manifold, I figured it would be worth doing. Also, would washers be necessary in such an application?
#1269
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 15,177
Total Cats: 1,681
Stupid question- does anything change if you use a nut and bolt instead of a stud and nut? I saw a few pics of setups like that many pages back, but no info on how well they hold up.
Not sure what kind of difference it makes, but since the issue seems to be studs back out of the manifold, I figured it would be worth doing. Also, would washers be necessary in such an application?
Not sure what kind of difference it makes, but since the issue seems to be studs back out of the manifold, I figured it would be worth doing. Also, would washers be necessary in such an application?
#1271
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,179
Total Cats: 1,130
Only difference is I'd prefer nuts/bolts (inconel of course) to studs, as there wouldn't be any potential damaging of the threads. If you do, it's a $20(?) bolt, instead of fixing or replacing a $350+ manifold.
#1272
that's also something I've considered. I'm checking to see how much bolts would be, but I don't know how hard it will be to find something the right size/alloy. I'd pick up the TSE kit but I don't trust my own ability to tap the manifold. If it comes to it I'll take it somewhere to have it done, lol.
#1273
found these on ebay:
AIRCRAFT ENGINE BOLT / INCO 718 / 3036T34P01 2T498 / INCONEL 718 / HIGH TEMP | eBay
Looks to be approximately the right size. No guarantee of it actually being inconel though, and I don't know if 718 is the proper grade. For $20 might be worth trying?
AIRCRAFT ENGINE BOLT / INCO 718 / 3036T34P01 2T498 / INCONEL 718 / HIGH TEMP | eBay
Looks to be approximately the right size. No guarantee of it actually being inconel though, and I don't know if 718 is the proper grade. For $20 might be worth trying?
#1275
Ok. I read this entire thread. I saw welding mentioned a few times, but it was usually welding a nut to a bolt or a bolt to the manifold.
Can you weld the turbo and manifold together around the flanges? I have an S4 manifold and 2554 turbo with a support brace on the downpipe. In this case the turbo is hanging beneath the manifold.
Can you weld the turbo and manifold together around the flanges? I have an S4 manifold and 2554 turbo with a support brace on the downpipe. In this case the turbo is hanging beneath the manifold.
#1276
Did you all know that you can buy Resbond through McMaster Carr?
It's part Number 7604A56
McMaster-Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3414/=jkb14o
It's part Number 7604A56
McMaster-Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3414/=jkb14o
#1277
From: https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...d-turbo-70294/
I removed the turbo this afternoon and only one stud (lower front) is backed out.
Talked to a race shop and discusses that we're going to re-assemble the studs and then drill from the manifold into the stud (2-3mm) and then insert a pin that we will tack weld. This will mechanically lock the studs in and keep them from removing themselves.
This is much like the stage8 nuts: mechanical lock to keep them from undoing themselves.
Feedback?
I removed the turbo this afternoon and only one stud (lower front) is backed out.
Talked to a race shop and discusses that we're going to re-assemble the studs and then drill from the manifold into the stud (2-3mm) and then insert a pin that we will tack weld. This will mechanically lock the studs in and keep them from removing themselves.
This is much like the stage8 nuts: mechanical lock to keep them from undoing themselves.
Feedback?
#1279
I didn't see this posted in the thread, but I saw them mentioned. Here are the 300zx turbo studs. I believe that these are 8mm and inconel. Nissan OEM 300ZX Exhaust Manifold to Turbo Stud - Nissan performance parts