EPIC nuts/studs loosening thread (reposting stupid stuff without reading = warning)
10-23-2009, 12:56 PM
#903
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the damper MAY help. who knows.
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10-23-2009, 02:11 PM
#907
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Don't you guys deal with this at Garrett? I we can't be the only people suffering from this.
edit: What really concerns me is that the F2 Williams cars are using the tial housings with Nimonic metal studs on audi 1.8t motors and they don't have this problem anymore...so if mine fail again, that means its a problem with something outside of the turbocharger or manifold I assume.
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10-23-2009, 02:36 PM
#908
There are two problems with using the Garrett bolts with the Tial hsg. The first is that the bolts are very likely seeing higher EGTs than originally intended. By itself this isn't the end of the world since there's some margin designed in there. But when you combine this with the Tial hsg, which is SS and expands a LOT more than iron, things loosen.
Nimonic is a very high nickel superalloy, and so even though it doesn't necessarily have the same coefficient of thermal expansion as SS, it won't relax either. The Tial guys are super sharp, so if they say their replacement hardware will do the job then I would go with that.
Safety wire is never a bad idea but good luck drilling thru Nimonic.
Nimonic is a very high nickel superalloy, and so even though it doesn't necessarily have the same coefficient of thermal expansion as SS, it won't relax either. The Tial guys are super sharp, so if they say their replacement hardware will do the job then I would go with that.
Safety wire is never a bad idea but good luck drilling thru Nimonic.
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10-23-2009, 02:43 PM
#909
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There are two problems with using the Garrett bolts with the Tial hsg. The first is that the bolts are very likely seeing higher EGTs than originally intended. By itself this isn't the end of the world since there's some margin designed in there. But when you combine this with the Tial hsg, which is SS and expands a LOT more than iron, things loosen.
Nimonic is a very high nickel superalloy, and so even though it doesn't necessarily have the same coefficient of thermal expansion as SS, it won't relax either. The Tial guys are super sharp, so if they say their replacement hardware will do the job then I would go with that.
Safety wire is never a bad idea but good luck drilling thru Nimonic.
Nimonic is a very high nickel superalloy, and so even though it doesn't necessarily have the same coefficient of thermal expansion as SS, it won't relax either. The Tial guys are super sharp, so if they say their replacement hardware will do the job then I would go with that.
Safety wire is never a bad idea but good luck drilling thru Nimonic.
Savington and I both used the "funky, unnamed metal" fasteners provided by TiAL. The funny part about the nimonic studs is that TiAL doesn't sell them directly (although they handled the ordering for me), don't make them, and apparently they did not develop this solution.
I suppose I'll just bolt-in the nimonic stuff and hope it doesn't cost me another $500 in CHRA in a couple sessions. At least I now have v-bands so it takes me 30-minutes round trip to take the turbo in and out.
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10-23-2009, 02:45 PM
#910
Also, before when I said the vibration wasn't causing the stud failures, I was referring to the manifold/turbo joint hardware yielding issues. Certainly when hardware is *loosening*, vibes should be looked at.
Vibration CAN be an absolute bitchwhore for durability. It is always a good idea to make absolutely certain that the turbo and/or downpipe can't rub the chassis when the motor is all torqued over in its mounts.
Vibration CAN be an absolute bitchwhore for durability. It is always a good idea to make absolutely certain that the turbo and/or downpipe can't rub the chassis when the motor is all torqued over in its mounts.
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10-23-2009, 03:05 PM
#911
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See, with my inconel safety wire I can let the tial hardware stretch and the safety wire will keep me from buying another housing. However, eventually after tightening, the tial hardware will break and I'll have to take the turbine housing to a machine shop and get the stud removed.
With the nimonic studs one can stretch or loosen , fall out, then I am out another $500 in CHRA.
I'm moving this to my other thread.
With the nimonic studs one can stretch or loosen , fall out, then I am out another $500 in CHRA.
I'm moving this to my other thread.
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10-24-2009, 07:58 PM
#912
46 pages. I've kept up with most of it. Haven't gone back through every post though. Flame me if I suck for asking this.
Did anyone try ARP's turbo stud kit? They are calling the material 300 stainless. Proprietary material apparently. About $40 a set. Ordered a set to put on when I swap my mani. May be useless crap but they are so well repected on other studs and bolts I thought I'd try them. It's not insanium but it seems nothing is perfect.
Here's from the ARP catalog...
Did anyone try ARP's turbo stud kit? They are calling the material 300 stainless. Proprietary material apparently. About $40 a set. Ordered a set to put on when I swap my mani. May be useless crap but they are so well repected on other studs and bolts I thought I'd try them. It's not insanium but it seems nothing is perfect.
Here's from the ARP catalog...
ARP manufactures a variety of premium grade bolt and stud kits to
facilitate installation of exhaust headers including the popular stainless stud
kit with 12-point nuts. The Stainless 300 material is not affected by corrosion
or extreme heat, making it ideal for the application. What’s more, the
compact 12-point nut lets you easily slip a socket close to the pipe. Each ARP
accessory stud or bolt kit includes the specific number of parts for your application,
plus premium-quality washers and hex or 12-point nuts, as required.
Studs are manufactured with a unique nut-starter nose that helps prevent
cross-threading. Studs and bolts come either black oxide chrome moly or
Stainless 300. Both are nominally rated at 170,000 psi tensile strength;
substantially stronger than Grade 8 hardware. Specially drilled “NASCAR”
models are available for those who wish to safety wire their header bolts to
Special “NASCAR” model prevent loosening.
facilitate installation of exhaust headers including the popular stainless stud
kit with 12-point nuts. The Stainless 300 material is not affected by corrosion
or extreme heat, making it ideal for the application. What’s more, the
compact 12-point nut lets you easily slip a socket close to the pipe. Each ARP
accessory stud or bolt kit includes the specific number of parts for your application,
plus premium-quality washers and hex or 12-point nuts, as required.
Studs are manufactured with a unique nut-starter nose that helps prevent
cross-threading. Studs and bolts come either black oxide chrome moly or
Stainless 300. Both are nominally rated at 170,000 psi tensile strength;
substantially stronger than Grade 8 hardware. Specially drilled “NASCAR”
models are available for those who wish to safety wire their header bolts to
Special “NASCAR” model prevent loosening.
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10-25-2009, 11:07 PM
#914
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I like how the ARP description has nothing to do with heat, expansion, plasticity, or anything that actually matters.
I should also note that my sister is now stretching and breaking turbo hardware in here bone-stock MSM, and she drives like a girl.
I should also note that my sister is now stretching and breaking turbo hardware in here bone-stock MSM, and she drives like a girl.
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