urgaynknowit

iTrader: (5)

first, i have a question about my greddy kit, for anyone who has the oil return that wraps around the block
im getting a kind of condensation on the line it self, it seems to be water, but has a light layer of oil on it too, im mean real light, as if u didnt touch it, you wouldnt know.

its on the whole line, not in spots, i was just wondering if anyone else had this, maybe its the climate im in, mass weather is pretty odd, one day its 60, next day its -10 and snowing for 3 days, then back to 60 the next




the second thing, today, while i was driving to work,
i was in 3rd gear, not in boost, going up a very gentle incline,
i flicked my headlights on ( hid at 6k temp)
as soon as i flicked the lights, the car stuttered, stumbled, i got a check engine light, and then as soon as it all had happened, car went right back to normal, whole thing took no more than a second to a second and a half.
my question is, what would cause this stumble when i flicked the lights on, and y did it go away almost immediately.

neither of these things is right now impeding my driving of the car,
they are just concerns i keep in the back of my head
i dont beat on the car , my ride to work is between 15-20 minutes long, mostly straight flat ground, i boost maybe 2-3 times max, for no more than 4-5 seconds at a time, usually to pass another car. the rest of the time i keep it out of boost and coast in 4th or 5th

any comments are greatly appreciated,

mike_671

iTrader: (4)

those are pretty hard problems to answer, my return line is fine it doesnt have oil or condensate, as for the head lights

maybe you should just change your return line and see if it does the same thing

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Probably not helpful, but after I swapped transmissions in my car (pulled the motor to do it), I left the alternator harness a little loose, and when I flicked the headlights/high beams on, the car stuttered very briefly and then came right back. I don't think the MS will trigger CELs so I didn't get a CEL, but it's something to check.

urgaynknowit

iTrader: (5)

i did do my clutch recently,and ripped alot of things off the car to see how hard they were to take of, so that might be it, thanx alot



any other info would be great, thanx

gompers

iTrader: (4)

I had the same **** with my headlights, but it turned out the connections to my battery were loose.
Fixed it for me ;p

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

well when i was having alternator problems during the worst of it when i turned on my turn signal the motor's revs would fall every time the light flashed. Check the alternator belt and make sure it hasn't hardened into an odd shape making it difficult to turn.

urgaynknowit

iTrader: (5)

it does whine when i turn my lights on,
i think its time for a new alternator and belt combo

can any one quote me on a price for belt and alternator

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

alternator i've got no idea, but i get all of my belts either OEM or NAPA, (about $10 from NAPA i think) i'll never make the mistake of trying to use autozone/advanced for anything other than slave cylinders

urgaynknowit

iTrader: (5)

ide get the belt from the dealer, im just afraid they would rape me on the alternator,
also, how hard is it to change this bugger, i would like to get this out of the way
before i drive down to the ne dyno meet in april. im concerned about driving 600 miles
and then have the alternator go on me.... that would really blow...

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

i've never sourced alternators, i have thought about buying a refurbished ac compressor for my 240 from NAPA but i never did because i'm just going to try to change the clutch on it. You may be better off waiting till the morning when some people who have really fucked up their cars will get on and share the wisdom

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

Alternator takes maybe 30 minutes to R&R, take it out and have it checked autozone has them for 100$ or so, they also have the belts. I am surpirised your alternator light didn't come on as well.

FHS

iTrader: (2)

If you've never changed your alternator, especially in your Miata, it can be a bitch. The spaces are tight so make sure you have nice compact tools. It took me a couple of hours to replace mine. It wasn't especially difficult. It was just tough to get to all the nuts and bolts and it was my first time trying to adjust belt tension.

urgaynknowit

iTrader: (5)

ive change 2 alternators b4, one on my nissan altima, and one on my civic

so it cant be too hard, car need to be in air? like do i need to be under it for any reason?

or is it just lean over motor bay, and go nuts

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

alternator light? you guys have fancy cars, i've never seen the low fuel light in my car and i don't want to go any lower than i usually do to find out (did run it out once and still no light )

urgaynknowit

iTrader: (5)

yea, i got mine real close to dieing on me, no light,
i wasnt even aware that there was such thing as an alternator light
in my old cars, i just got the battery light

reddroptop

iTrader: (4)

There is no low fuel level light on the 90-97 Miata. Can't speak for 99+.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

There is no fuel warning on any miata, the alternator light is the shape of a battery, I seen it when i threw my harmonic balancer out off the car it was not a fun night. :(

mazda/nissan

iTrader: (2)

oh well if thats the battery light i know i've seen that one before. I think i saw it when my car spat out my belts while going down the road, looked like a grenade had exploded near my pulleys, i had bits and pieces of belts all over the engine compartment

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

When I removed AC and PS, my accessory belt was half as wide as it originally was. Part of it jammed itself into my slim electric fan.

I don't think moisture would be able to get into the oil return line.

urgaynknowit

iTrader: (5)

how bout on the line?