Newbsauce

iTrader: (2)

Nice build... nice fans.. they used to be mine haha

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

Nice progress Vash, looking good. I really want to clean up my bay a bit too now that I see what yours looks like after the flat black treatment.

Vashthestampede

iTrader: (17)

I haven't touched the timing, so I'm almost sure it cant be that. I figured that if my TD04 was at 9ish psi and my now Tial wastgate is set at 8psi, that there wouldn't be much of a difference at idle.

I'm looking into injectors now. I am looking between the supra 305's, and both the RX7 440's and 460's. Right now all I have are the 1.8 265's and a Walbro hp pump. As well as the emanage map I was using with the old setup.

I have basically two options; Get the emanage cable (my bootleg one works 50% of the time), a set of injectors, and keep my AFM and walk away only spending like $250. -OR- Get MS with the AFM delete (IAC?), set of injectors, and be done with it...but for alot more coin.

I have a feeling the car is going to be sitting for a couple more weeks.

Vash-

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

How much boost do you make at idle? Ya that's right, so unlikely this is a problem.

Find the problem first before you go and buy injectors (440/460) that won't run with your setup.

Hold the phone, don't go jumping to conclusions. The LAST thing you want to do is ad more variables to a setup that isn't working correctly.

Start at the begining. What have your touched since you last drove the car? Did you mess with injectors? Did you mess with your tune? You moved and removed a bunch of **** when you were cleaning things up right? Did you mess with the AFPR at all? What's your fuel pressure at idle?

I'm willing to be you have a big *** leak somewhere and it sucking in unmetered air.

And if you have knock with out any load, you've got serious issues.

Vashthestampede

iTrader: (17)

I have touched nothing on the intake side of the motor. The tune has not changed since I was on the dyno 3 years ago. I pretty much unplugged every electrical connector and vac line that I needed to in order to paint. The AFPR is long gone. I was having issues once I installed the walbro pump, so I tried removing the AFPR and since then all problems went away. But I also barely drove the car under boost, seeing the tires rub so god damn much.

I am looking now online for a fuel pressure gauge. I was looking yesterday on summit, for a simple in-line gauge.

I still need to reference my vac lines to something to make sure what I did is correct.

I can't really tell if I hear knock. I just know everything sounds very rough.

Vash-

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

its not knock, it's just not the correct AFR. it's possible your not firing in a cylinder. pull spark plugs and fuel injectors, each should make it worse and possibly stall the car. if you pull one and it does nothing, you know you have an issue.

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

Like I said, go back and check everything you touched. You've left something unplugged or plugged in backwards.


No AFPR? Stock 1.8 injectors? EMB? 9psi boost? Is this a good idea?

Vashthestampede

iTrader: (17)

Ok, I just checked.

Spark plugs pulled;

Cyl 1 - No change in idle
Cyl 2 - Little hesitation, idle dropped but no stall
Cyl 3 - Stall
Cyl 4 - Stall

Fuel injectors unplugged;

Cyl 1 - No change in idle
Cyl 2 - No change in idle
Cyl 3 - Stall
Cyl 4 - Stall

(The car never actually stalled once, I would just reconnect before it would stall)

I have my Innovate LC1 sitting on my desk, but I haven't installed it yet. I had Jason put a bung in the test pipe for me, so I was waiting until the exhaust gets here to install it.

Does this sound normal? Or are injectors shot? At this point whatever I need to get it running I will get. If I do the injectors, I'm getting a dual feed rail. And I'm on the fence about just ordering a MS tonight. Money is tight, but I really want to finish this up. Don't get me wrong, I am looking to do everything right. I don't plan on doing anything unnecessary or rushed.

Vash-

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

Sounds like you aren't firing on 1 and/or 2. Do you have the plug wires connected in the correct order?

Vashthestampede

iTrader: (17)

The car was choking when I had the AFR in. It was almost like I was flooding the car with too much fuel. Someone at my shop insisted it was the Vortech and that I should remove it and return the lines to stock. I did and it seemed much better. But I do remember it being a **** when I would hit it hard. Like I said, I really didn't drive the car like I should have after I removed the Vortech, the ******* wheels would rub to much. This past year I didn't push the car much.

I'm going outside now to check everything again. I'm 99% sure I got all the electrical connections. Its the vac lines that worries me, I guessed on everything.

Vash-

Vashthestampede

iTrader: (17)

Jay I could kiss your mouth right now! lol

How the **** did I manage to do all the work I did, but had spark plug wires 1 and 2 mixed up. I saw you asked me that and I was like "WTF, of course not!". When I went outside and check I was like SON OF A BITCH!!!
Sure enough, wires 1 and 2 were wrong.

Now the car sounds completely different and has a much faster idle. Only thing is the idle is all over the place. I gave it some throttle up to about 3k rpms and when it came back down, if I didn't touch the gas again it would have stalled.

All electrical connectors are good. AFM has a tight connection. Only thing unplugged right now are my fans.

Vac lines are as follows;

-BOV - Front of TB
-Back of TB - Plastic thing on passenger side fender (This line is also T'd off to one of my Greddy boxes. And the plastic things second nipple is capped (I'm pretty sure this went to the charcoal canister).
-Fuel pressure regulator is cut and T'd off to another Greddy box.
-Turbo - Tial wastgate

This is what I looked at while under the hood. I think that maybe the coupler that's halfassed holding my AFM might have a small amount of suckage, if any.

Thanks again Jay! I cant believe I ******* had spark plugs wires mixed up out of all things! I'm going to take another video now of the idle.

Vash-

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

I'd prefer not thanks.

This is why its important not to jump to conclusions. Start with stuff you've messed with and work your way from there. Spontaneous failure of your injectors is unlikely I'm still betting you have a big vacuum leak somewhere.

Greddy box?

Vashthestampede

iTrader: (17)

I'm going to put in all new vac lines once I know I have everything connected right. I have a box of new black silicone hoses still to go in. I think I might get one of those vacuum distribution blocks, rather than having T'd off things.

I have 2 black greddy boxes. Pressure senders I guess? One came with EMB and the other came with my Greddy boost gauge.

I took a video but its still uploading. The car wants to stall for about the first 30 seconds. Then it pretty much stays around 1k rpms. But if I play with the throttle at all, it gets fucked up.

Vash-

spike

Vash your car sounds like a bridgeported rotary engine in the video.

Vashthestampede

iTrader: (17)

New video after switching spark plugs 1 and 2.



P.S. I still need a coffee, that's why the camera is all over the place! lol

Vash-

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

How much vacuum are you getting with it running?

01TurboMiata

iTrader: (3)

is that BOV open during idle? cause if you still have the MAF and its open that could be your problem.

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

If you weren't firing right on cycl 1 and 2, id check to see if you fouled the plugs. +1 on vac, how much?

Vashthestampede

iTrader: (17)

I wish I knew. My boost gauge has not worked since the bodyshop put my new carpet set in. I just tried ******* with it and nothing. It lights, but the needle doesn't move, just points straight down.

This BOV is new to me so I don't know much about them. I know my old HKS SSQV was closed at idle. Seeing its a FM unit I would assume its for cars not running a AFM. I guess that sucks....

Hmmm....I didn't even think of that. I'm gonna pull them now.

I did move some vacuum lines around though. The one coming from the BOV to the TB was split where it connected. I put a new line there and T'd off it to the Greddy pressure sender for the gauge. And took out the T between the FPR and intake manifold and just connected the two.

Also I'm noticing some smoking by the turbo. I think its just the ceramic coating or my paint I put on the DP coming off. But I'm hoping its not the turbo itself! I have yet to get the car very warm. Doesn't the thermostat need to be open in order for the coolant to make its way to the turbo? I might unhook the turbo oil drain and make sure I have flow....

Vash-

01TurboMiata

iTrader: (3)

yeah try to disconnect the vaccum line going to the BOV and see what happens, taking the vaccum source from the BOV will keep it shut if it is staying open.