Fallin Blade

iTrader: (1)

Ok everyone, We all know the 1.6 is slow, ive been with it bone sock for longer then i would like to admit right now. how much can i upgrade to? How does the turbo feel? Any thing said would be appreciated.

firedog25

Unless you get a timing unit like the Bipes or something similar, the response on the low end sucks because you have to set the timing to 6 degrees BTDC. When I first installed mine it was horrible because of that low end response. Then I bought a Bipes ACU and it was better because I set my timing back to stock 10 degrees BTDC. I'll probably go to 12 degrees BTDC after 500 miles.

Also, the stock downpipe sssssssSUCKS. Miniscule. I can't wait to get my Tony downpipe and go full 2.5" turbo back.

Fallin Blade

iTrader: (1)

so with that did it put a smile on your face? and this down pipe you speak of where do you get it?

nyuaznguy

turbotony2k@yahoo.com

I just got one.. i'm still waiting for my exhaust to come in and I'm going to put them both on.. =)

firedog25

In it's current configuration (Greddy kit, Bipes, TurboXS boost controller, golf ball sized exhaust) it has a nice, smooth power delivery. Almost like a small V-6. I also happen to have a mild exhaust leak because of a nut falling off. It REALLY quieted the exhaust out (except for the exhaust leak) because the turbocharger absorbs a lot of the exhaust pulse noise, a LOT. All the noise comes out of the front of the car now with the intake and wastegate chattering when shifting.

flashlegs

I've been really happy with my greddy turbo. I'm running 9psi with some upgrades to the basic kit.

LOLA - 92

Never a problem here since my installation. It has always worked great.
Some people have problems with them, but most of the time it seems to be due to lack of thorough pre-installation read-up! I myself read everyting I could about what was needed before and during installation. #8 bolts and studs, Manifold cuts, Upgraded turbo clamps and Hoses, Bipes installation, FPR installation, Gauges, Blow-off valve, and proper vacuum.
Oil change and filter + 92 octane fuel. Another thing - either get rid of the filter for the GReddy or make sure that you LOCTITE the little nuts,screws that can work themselves out and get sucked into your turbo!

gman3

I just have the basic kit and am very happy with it. Running just under 6 lbs with the only extras being BIPES and a 2.5 inch cat back with high flow cat. Its not crazy power but noticeably quicker and just a blast to drive and listen to it spool up. This winter Ill probably try to get some more out of it, intercooler maybe, but for now its been well worth the two grand I spent on everything. And since my profession is networks, I really enjoyed doing the work as it was a great change of pace. Go for it!!!!

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I built a DIY running without extra management. With the trouble I went through, the GReddy would have been a better place to start and to upgrade and learn from. Just be careful once you get the bug you're never going to stop.

TurboMiatKid

Greddy turbo are great, i love mine. They are a great place to start at. Im only running 5 psi right now, looking to get a new clutch and move it up to around 10.

brgracer

iTrader: (14)

Great starter kit to get your feet wet. Makes you earn your power thru lots of searching, reading, time, and effort, but it's worth it IMHO.

Best bang for the buck if you don't include nos and your personal time. But be realistic, $1200 is going to get you about $1200 worth of power/quality so more power/reliability/"quality" is going to cost more. FWIW, I've never regretted buying it, and I've learned so much along the way. YMMV.

nyuaznguy

I purchased my car pre-turbo'd. For me personally the power was never enough in the base kit. But its much better then an non-turbo'd miata. This website is a great resource as far as finding out what exactly I need to go to the next level. I'm still in the process, but thanks to website, I'm already setting up all the "easy" stuff to turn up the boost.. =)

Pop VII

Suppose it depends on what you call slow, what your budget is, and your automotive and fabrication skills. The basic 5 PSI kit right out of the box should shave about 1.5 seconds from your 1/4 mile times. No question you will notice that. Many are quite happy with that, but most seem to want more.

May wish to look at both of my Greddy pages for some ideas prior to ripping the box open and slapping on the kit in a couple of hours. The only thing I would hesitate on doing is the manifold cuts without some additional research. Going back to the first recorded failures in 1998, unable to substantiate they have done anything to prevent manifold cracking. This deserves its own thread for discussion which I will initiate soon.

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

I really like my GReddy kit; but I LOVE my galoshes.:gay:












Name the comedian

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

Seriously, Pop, I think that thread will be helpful. I have some ideas to add.

Keith Green

As all of us know, Miatas are a blast to drive once you get them going. The only down side was acceleration. You soon learn that if there's a soccer mom in a van next to you at a stop light and you're both racing for the on-ramp, she's going to win. I wasn't looking for a corvette killer, just acceleration which equals the fun of the rest of the car's performance. The stock GReddy does that, and is the best bang for the buck in terms of performance outside of the timing bump.

Bring on that soccer mom!

Miata-MS

The Vestibules?

-------------------

I know there is some debate as to the effectiveness of the 'piggyback' fuel management, but I have a SAFC-II sitting on my desk that's been NIB for about 8 months now...with that and a BIPES, would that be sufficient mangement to safely get me in the 180HP range without losing drivability?

If I had tons of time and money i'd love to get a MS and go standalone, but for the modest goals i'm trying to reach....this might be an easier answer. The only thing i'm concerned about is at some point, wont the airflow overcome the ability of the flapper-door AFM? I know you can go to the RX7, but say theoretically that when the door is fully open, the AFM flows X amount of CFM. With a turbo sucking through that same size opening, the air flowing through the flapper door fully open maybe is 120%(X) CFM....how can the ECU know to increase the fuel delivery when the AFM is sending a "100% Air Flow signal" in both cases?

Sorry, i've read a lot, but i've never found an answer to this question, which is why i thought a standalone was probably the only way to go for higher HP goals.

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

This is why the Emanage would normally be set up with a MAP signal for tuning if not from an AFR input.

Miata-MS

So to get out of that bottleneck w/ the flapper door, you have to go with something other than the stock ECU on a 1.6 because it wont take any other signal than the flapper door. From what I gather, the Emanage can 'convert' a MAP or AFR signal to something the stock ECU understands, but the SAFC-II wont, correct?

Sounds like MegaSquirt is still the way to go for the Greddy, even for 'modest' HP levels. I know people have gotten there with AFPR's and such, but that seems like more of a 'band-aid' approach to me. You dont really have much control over the final tune as you would w/ a standalone (or piggyback fuel management).

And ya know, i just noticed I totally hi-jacked this thread... sorry, i'll go start a new one when i'm confused some more :wave: