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Begi S3 questions

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Old 03-01-2012, 03:33 PM
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Default Begi S3 questions

Hi all, I'm considering buying a Begi S3 kit and was hoping for some advice.

First off, I've done a lot of research and think I'm on the right track here, just looking for final advice and suggestions.

I currently have a JR M45 kit installed on my '93 1.6L that is running with a JR AFPR and a Bipes ACU, as well as JR header and catback. I also have a ACT stage 2 organic clutch with a Fidanza 1.8 flywheel which I think should be sufficient for the turbo kit and my whp goals. Stock open diff that will be replaced at a later date.

I am leaning towards the S3 because it appears to be the turbo kit that produces the most power (and appears to be quite reliable) for the 1.6 and retains CARB certification. It also appears to be capable of meeting my goals of 200rwhp.

First I will do a compression test, replace my plugs/wires, replace the tstat with a 180* and do a coolant reroute.

Then my plan is to go one of two ways (I have a feeling which way you guys will suggest). The first would be to retain the Bipes and AFPR and run at 5-6 PSI, but I'm thinking most likely I'll be looking at increasing boost after a month or so. My second plan would be to buy a wideband/MS and install them prior to the turbo going in (how hard are these to get used to? of course I would pay to have it dyno tuned).

Basically, my questions are, is it really infeasible to use the AFPR and Bipes to make around 200rwp and also, and to get to that goal, will I need to upgrade my fuel pump and injectors? From what I've read, it appears a larger fuel pump and at least 440 injectors seem to be the way to go.

Sorry, one more question, the JR catback shouldn't be too much louder than it is now with the blower, correct? Anyone had fittiment issues?

Thanks in advance..
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Old 03-01-2012, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by charlie_hustle
Basically, my questions are, is it really infeasible to use the AFPR and Bipes to make around 200rwp and also, and to get to that goal, will I need to upgrade my fuel pump and injectors? From what I've read, it appears a larger fuel pump and at least 440 injectors seem to be the way to go.
As a general rule of thumb, it's more cost effective to buy a Walbro 255 or 190 from Deatsch, 500+cc injectors (preferably EV14), and MSpnp2 or MS3x from the start because this is the path to glory. I've never owned anything on a FPR/spark retard, because I've driven two with it and never would want to own something that drives so miserably. Save your money, get engine management buttoned up first, then buy turbo parts.
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:14 AM
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Well, that was fast. Thanks for the advice, Hustler. I know the next three things I'll be searching the classifieds for.
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:22 AM
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The wideband should be part of any build that's not stock, even N/A. That brings the cost of MS much closer to the cost of bandaids. In the end you'll just be throwing money away for what? Wait off on a few turbo parts here and there, and you'll end up with a MS, and 90% of your turbo. Save up for the last 10% rather than saving for the MS.
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by curly
The wideband should be part of any build that's not stock, even N/A. That brings the cost of MS much closer to the cost of bandaids. In the end you'll just be throwing money away for what? Wait off on a few turbo parts here and there, and you'll end up with a MS, and 90% of your turbo. Save up for the last 10% rather than saving for the MS.
I'm not quite sure what you're saying here.. but:

Originally Posted by charlie_hustle
My second plan would be to buy a wideband/MS and install them prior to the turbo going in
This is now confirmed as my plan of action. They will be bought and installed at the same time.
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Old 03-02-2012, 12:02 PM
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+1 on ms and wideband
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Old 03-02-2012, 12:06 PM
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UR smart!!

To answer your last question, the turbo is an effective muffler and will quiet your car further with whatever exhaust you have on.
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Old 03-02-2012, 12:16 PM
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i agree with the wideband and MS first. It's one thing to use MS and copy settings that others have used to get the car to work. It's entirely different to understand what you are changing and why you are doing it. To "know" MS, the learning curve is steep. BUT once you know what you are doing, then you really don't need to spend money on a dyno. this alone, can offset a major portion of the upfront MS cost.

Then it will be super easy for you to retune idle and enrichments when you add the turbo parts.

Edit: I'd get MS3x. I think it is future proof for a good while.
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Old 03-02-2012, 03:01 PM
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^ But then I don't get the pretty box :(
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