92Black&Tan

iTrader: (2)

Do you think it will work?

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

Uhh i dont see how it works. is it supposed to bleed off boost? elaborate B&T please

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

welcome to the club....

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

his design will restrict the amount of pressure that will enter the fmu, so it should lower the gain...

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

Unless it is bleeding to atmosphere I don't think this will do what you want. I suspect it'll just make it a little slow to respond. What you need to do is drill and tap the body of the and install a hosebard there. Bring your vac/boost source in there and use the valve to bleed off to atmoshpere. That'll make it similar to a BEGI unit.

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

Pressure would be the same, flow would be reduced. It'll probably just make it slower to react.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

I gues so scot but a cheap MBC like jayc describes would raise the threshold and lower the gain this is mucho better in my view.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I believe that's why I went the needle valve route...which worked okay.... I never liked the MBC idea, because it blocks the FMU from raising the fuel pressure untill a certain pressure it acheveied...that's it....which is not the solution most people are looking for.

PAT!

iTrader: (1)

I think they are talking about a bleeder style MBC not a ball and spring.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

ahhh, gotcha..

92Black&Tan

iTrader: (2)

OK... I think I understand. What I have is just a needle valve that I can screw down and limit the flow and not the pressure. What I need to do is to route the vacuum line directly into the Vortech and maybe have a "tee" on top and then put the valve on the other side. Crank the valve all the way down and then adjust up slightly to bleed off pressure accordingly as needed to lean out the mixture... Provided that I am way rich like I suspect I will be with the Walbro 190lph HP and the 1.8 injectors and the 12:1 disk in the Vortech.

I will also need a one way check valve on the other side of the valve so I don't have a vacuum leak.

curly

iTrader: (25)

92black&tan, do you have a source for the bleeder valve?

any results?

looks like a nice setup if you can verify its doing what you want properly.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

so long as there isnt to much between the T and the bleeder yes that will work but remember it needs to be closed when not in boost.

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

I'm not intimate with the vortech, but this sounds about right.

I'd leave the needle valve as is, but put a check valve on the end so it can't suck un-metered air into the system. Install another hose barb and bring the boost signal in there. Adjusting the needle valve will limit the amount or pressure IN the body of the vortech by creating a leak. This is basically how the BEGI unit works. If you want to get fancy you could put an MBC AFTER the needle valve so that it won't start bleeding off pressure until you hit a certain amount of boost, basically a pressure release valve. I meant to try this with my begi unit but got ride of it before I could.

92Black&Tan

iTrader: (2)

This would allow me to bleed off pressure to regulate the regulator and NOT have a vacuum leak.

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

That could work. I still think it better that the vortech is between vac source and the bleed valve, instead of teeing off before.

Let us know how it works.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

well...that's exactly what I had working.....see above pic.

92Black&Tan

iTrader: (2)

Yes... Exactly... I was just drawing the illustration for confirmation mostly. Do you have that on your car now?

curly

iTrader: (25)

braineack, you have what seems to be a fuel hose in the way, do you have a better, less obstructed picture? where'd you get your bleeder valve and check valve? I got my bov check valve from jgs, but it would obviously be much to large for this app.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

No, It's megasquirted now...I might still have the assembly.

The needle valve is from a BEGi FMU. Check valve from Advanced Auto Parts.

The fitting on top of the FMU was drilled and taped to 3/16" or something like that...I took the vacuum line fitting directly off my BEGi FMU and screwed it in the fitting, the vacuum line on the bottom of the needle valve is on the threads....I just zipped it good and siliconed it a bit.

It would be just as easy to get a 1/8" Brass tee, and (4)four 1/8" to X fittings; one for the source the other for the needle valve....The valve B&T had pictured above can accept the same (2)two fittings....get a bit of vacuum hose and a check valve, and there you have it.