blue89turbo

Hey Guys,

So after buying the basic Greddy kit in March '07 and then having to rebuild the head last summer before passing emissions and installing the kit, I just finally got her up and running today.

To the basic Greddy I added the following:

Bipes
FM boost/vac gauge
AEM WB O2 - not installed yet
VTA BOV
1.8 Inj
2.5 I/C piping
I/C
Tony DP - in transit
Older guy O2 clamp - in transit
2.5 cat back with magnaflow - soon
Torsen Swap - sitting in the garage


Hopefully this will be enough to run safely at the stock 5-6 psi for a while?
And what do you guys figure I can turn up the boost too once she is tuned properly?

I had her running in the garage for a while and adjusted the idle up a bit.
Then took here down the street, unfortunately it was raining but I couldn't here any pinging and everything sounded pretty good. (probably shouldn't have gone out in the rain, but hey I couldn't wait anymore)

Looking at the boost gauge I could not seem to build any boost, but by seat of the pants I must have been boosting because I was getting some wheel spin in 2nd and 3rd!
Although the car didn't really seem to be as quick as what I was expecting. Any suggestions?
I am going to check all the I/C couplers and vac. hoses tomorrow, as I won't be happy till I see the gauge at 5-6psi...


The questions that I have are:

Is there a threaded outlet somewhere on the block to tap into for an external coolant temp gauge?

Do I need a simple one way check valve in the ISC line or anywhere else?

Can I run a simple air filter in the valve cover, or should I recirc?

I have an extra Oil Pressure gauge, can I use this to check the fuel pressure?

Any other band-aids or suggestions that anyone may have?

Thanks

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Welcome to the boost club!

That's quite a list you've got put together. And I think you're going to be pleasantly surprised when you get the Tony pipe and the full 2.5" exhaust in.

Out of curiosity- you're the first person I've known who is running a proper WBO2 sensor with the stock Vortech FPR. What sort of mixture are you seeing at WOT currently?Oh yeah, assuming everything is working, you're in good shape. Ultimately, fuel is going to be your limiting factor. You'll know by watching the AFR gauge when you've hit the ceiling- try to keep it no leaner than 12.5:1 in boost. I'm guessing you have have enough fuel for perhaps 8 PSI or so?
Where on the engine is the gauge connected to?Not on the 1.6 that I can think of. You could use an inline adapter to install one in the heater hose or upper radiator hose. Nope. This is largely an emissions issue. In theory, you will benefit from slightly reduced crankcase pressure by running this hose to the compressor inlet pipe, though it can lead to oil coating the inside of the pipes and IC. Plenty of us (myself included) just use the little vent filter with no obvious ill effects. Sure. If it's a mechanical, I'd advise mounting it outside the car, but lots of folks have done this before.

blue89turbo

Thanks Joe, I'm looking forward to feeling the boost.


I have the WB gauge mounted but am waiting for the DP to arrive before getting it up and running. I will let you know what type of mixtures I see once installed.

The boost/vac gauge is connected to one of the two ports on top of the throttle body.
The vacuum seems to be normal, at about 20, but I had to turn up the idle probably due to the VTA BOV.

Do you know where I can get one of these inline coolant adaptor, I have been looking around but haven't found one yet.

If I install the fuel gauge, what type of fuel pressure should I be seeing with this set up?

Thanks

Toddcod

iTrader: (8)

You won't see boost in neutral. But my first guage wouldn't work either. And it was brand new. I returned it, switched gauges and now works great. Sometimes those mechanical gauges do crazy things. And then they will work right again.

I would check for leaks everywhere. And have a buddy look too. They are usually less pissed about your car and may find it right away. LOL

Good Luck!

blue89turbo

Hey Todd,

I checked all the couplers for leaks. I had all t-bolt clamps installed but some of them did not seem to be sealing right, I though the t bolt clamps were the ****, but I ended up swapping a few out to the old worm style to get a better seal.
I managed to get to about 2-3 psi on the gauge now, but i may buy another gauge to confirm that it is not just the gauge.

The car seems to stutter when going from vac to boost? any ideas?

I turned the bipes to full retard for now until I get to 5 psi

Also, there seems to be some type of whistling noise when I speed up a bit. When I shut off the engine when at speed the noise was still there, i am thinking it could be because I don't have any under covers installed right now?

Anyone have any ideas on what else to look into?

Thanks

drftem2

iTrader: (3)

does your bov seal all the way? if its not sealing it will cause a major boost leak. could also happen if not hooked up correctly.

blue89turbo

The BOV should seal ok. I was using it on my Supra and it worked fine on that car. Although I did loosen it up a bit for spring tension for the Miata as i thought the little 1.6 would have a tough time opening the spring
I will tighten the spring all the way and see what happens. If that doesnt work I
could remove the BOV and seal the hole to check the boost.

Machismo

iTrader: (1)

Check with Advanced Autosports for the inline coolant adapter.
I have installed one from them and the product is nice and easy use.

mx5dude69

Joe,
I had the AEM wideband when I fitted the greddy with no IC the first time.
I saw 10.8-11.0 at WOT with 4psi.
With 5/6psi i saw AFR's of 11.8-12.0.

With the IC and Wallbro255 at 6psi I see 12.0

blue89turbo

That's the one!
Thanks for the link.