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So what are your shanghais boosting?

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Old 10-10-2012, 04:08 PM
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Default So what are your shanghais boosting?

As the title says, what boost levels are you fellow shanghaiers (or ppl with comparable turbos, ie. 2554) running?

Street tuned the car today and ended up with 13 psi, this is fun, but I'm curious about if it is safe. I won't have a possibility to dyno tune / dyno the car for a while, so therefore I'm womdering, will I break my gearbox, oem rods and the like?

AFR 11.9-12.4 in boost, pulling 14 degrees of timing between 4000-5000 rpm.
98 RON.

I do realize that this might be noobish of me, but as there is a whole lot of boosted miata knowledge here, I'd like to ask. Will turn boost down for track duty.

I might have to wear my flame suit here, but hell, if the flaming has any usefull info, bring it on!



Edit: title is supposer to say your, if someone feels like it, please change it or I'll keep sounding like a retard.
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Old 10-10-2012, 04:24 PM
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Get VirtualDyno, load a log into it, and you'll have a decent idea of where you are power-wise.
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Old 10-10-2012, 04:30 PM
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0psi because it lasted less than 1000 miles.
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Old 10-10-2012, 05:17 PM
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I run ALLOFIT
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Old 10-10-2012, 05:18 PM
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12.4afr @13psi...have fun with your melted pistons
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Old 10-10-2012, 05:24 PM
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I'd take that as a suggestion to go for 12.0? I suppose I'll go tune some more

To clarify, I have a spot where it goes to 12.4, I figured "hell, its under 12.5.

I consider myself educated.

My aim here is to keep my 5-speed alive and still having a setup I can track. Your recommendation then would be to aim at AFR 12? Or should I lower the boost as long as I dont know what rwtq I'm making?

Experience is what counts here.

Last edited by Sentic; 10-10-2012 at 05:40 PM.
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Old 10-10-2012, 05:41 PM
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Shoot for 11.5 - 11.8 at peak boost.
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Old 10-10-2012, 05:44 PM
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Are you running stock clutch? I found mine slipping at 10 psi on my gt2554
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Old 10-10-2012, 05:47 PM
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The clutch has been changed by a previous owner. I have no info on whats in there now, have always thought it is a little heavier than other nb's and have not had a look.

It is holding on though, and I do realize that it shouldn't. As long as it does, I'm a happy camper.

I suppose the reasonable thing to do here would be to lower the boost to 12 psi and add some fuel. I dont have enough injector left to be able to tune richer without seeing duty cycles over 80%.

Ah hell, better safe than sorry I suppose.

Last edited by Sentic; 10-10-2012 at 06:00 PM.
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Old 10-10-2012, 05:55 PM
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who cares about that 80% mark as long as the mixture is still richening? What are you running at now? 15 ms total open time?
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Old 10-10-2012, 05:56 PM
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people whose injectors go static
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:05 PM
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I have the log at the tuning laptop, so I can't tell youmthe timers. Just concentrated on duty.

But I think the wise thing to do here is what I stated before. 12 psi, more fuel and pistons, rods and hopefully a 5-speed that lasts for a while

Thanks for the input!
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Old 10-13-2012, 10:51 AM
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Forged pistons/rods is going to be overkill on a 12psi 2554 setup IMO
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Old 10-13-2012, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Sentic
I have the log at the tuning laptop, so I can't tell youmthe timers. Just concentrated on duty.

But I think the wise thing to do here is what I stated before. 12 psi, more fuel and pistons, rods and hopefully a 5-speed that lasts for a while

Thanks for the input!
Why not spend the money in the right place. A SIX SPEED NOT RODS AND PISTONS.
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Old 10-13-2012, 03:19 PM
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A six speed would be nice. It's on the "future"-list. But I'm still in uni and for a year more, I'll really have to plan my expenses.
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Old 10-13-2012, 05:58 PM
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10psi currently at 11 afr. It has seen 14psi about 2 years ago but that was scary since my budget would not allow a new motor.
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Old 10-13-2012, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Sentic
A six speed would be nice. It's on the "future"-list. But I'm still in uni and for a year more, I'll really have to plan my expenses.
Univ obviously not teach ya jack **** cus

YOU DONT NEED RODS AND PISTONS FOR 250hp

BUT

250hp WILL BREAK A FIVE SPEED

SO BUY A SIX SPEED YA DUMB ****
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Old 10-13-2012, 07:59 PM
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I think a poorly tuned 250whp would probably take out the rods before the trans unless you are flatshifting like a dumbass.
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Old 10-14-2012, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Faeflora
Univ obviously not teach ya jack **** cus

YOU DONT NEED RODS AND PISTONS FOR 250hp

BUT

250hp WILL BREAK A FIVE SPEED

SO BUY A SIX SPEED YA DUMB ****

Enough to know how to remove and reattach you tounge to your anus so that your fu**ing syllable diahrrea would make some sense! Stop doing uppers and learn some manners fu**er!

I could have said that, but you might actually be right about the trans, so I'll let it slide.
My ambition is that it will last one season, that means lowering boost on track, but I'm ok with that.
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Old 10-14-2012, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by flounder
I think a poorly tuned 250whp would probably take out the rods before the trans unless you are flatshifting like a dumbass.
No **** sherlock. A poor tune breaks rods. Really??? pAnd you are ******* wrong. Five speed trans breaks with stock power.

Originally Posted by Sentic
Enough to know how to remove and reattach you tounge to your anus so that your fu**ing syllable diahrrea would make some sense! Stop doing uppers and learn some manners fu**er!

I could have said that, but you might actually be right about the trans, so I'll let it slide.
My ambition is that it will last one season, that means lowering boost on track, but I'm ok with that.
The damn transmission will break especially on the track.

I hope that when it breaks, it somehow explodes your shortblock at the same time, and that the oil catches fire, your throttle gets stuck wide open, your key breaks off in the ignition, and your injectors spray nonstop WOT fuel quantities everywhere, and that your university car burns to the ground around you. Slowly. And that you are sad. You can walk away unharmed but you dont deserve a turbo miata cus ur so ******* dumb.
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