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How much timing at 14 psi

Old 05-24-2007, 03:24 PM
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Default How much timing at 14 psi

Assuming I have A/F ratio around 12:1 or better how much timing advance would it be safe to run at around 14 to 15 psi? Thanks.
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Old 05-24-2007, 04:46 PM
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how much wood could a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood?

as much as is needed to avoid knock. safe? probably around 4, 5 degrees? depends on temp and a few other conditions. make sure your muffler bearing is well greased though...
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Old 05-24-2007, 06:11 PM
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total advance? intercooled? controlling device?
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Old 05-24-2007, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by curly
how much wood could a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood?

as much as is needed to avoid knock. safe? probably around 4, 5 degrees? depends on temp and a few other conditions. make sure your muffler bearing is well greased though...
:gay:
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Old 05-24-2007, 10:56 PM
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On some of the stuff below, maybe 12* advanced or more. Just be sure to remove your cat first. Truthfully, there are too many variables. We need more info about your setup. But if you're going to run that much boost on even good pump gas, it would be dumb not to have a Bipes (at a minimum) to control timing. For $175, you can set your base to 14* to keep all your low end power, and pull out as much as you need up top.

Last edited by samnavy; 08-01-2007 at 09:53 PM.
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Old 05-25-2007, 12:59 AM
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Sam, why did you suggest for him to remove his cat? Thanx
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Old 05-25-2007, 01:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Danimal
Sam, why did you suggest for him to remove his cat? Thanx
My guess is that 110 Octane Leaded Racing Gas would turn it to junk in a very short period of time...
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Old 05-25-2007, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by cyee
My guess is that 110 Octane Leaded Racing Gas would turn it to junk in a very short period of time...
Affirm.
If you're interested in adding some good fuel for a trackday or a dyno day, just call your local speed-shop and they should be able to tell you where the local hot-pumps are. If you've got a track nearby, guaranteed a gas-station close-by will sell the good stuff.
And yup, the Sunoco 110 stuff is leaded, which will eat the ceramics(or whatever) out of your cat.

If I remember correctly, the only reason for the lead was as an anti-knock agent. Now that refining techniques have made better gas cheaper, lead is out. I might be talking out my *** about that though.
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Old 05-26-2007, 02:57 AM
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Originally Posted by samnavy
Affirm.
If you're interested in adding some good fuel for a trackday or a dyno day, just call your local speed-shop and they should be able to tell you where the local hot-pumps are. If you've got a track nearby, guaranteed a gas-station close-by will sell the good stuff.
And yup, the Sunoco 110 stuff is leaded, which will eat the ceramics(or whatever) out of your cat.

If I remember correctly, the only reason for the lead was as an anti-knock agent. Now that refining techniques have made better gas cheaper, lead is out. I might be talking out my *** about that though.
no...you're right on the money!!!
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Old 05-26-2007, 12:37 PM
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yeah, the lead basically makes the gas burn slower. the lead greatly reduces its likeliness to ping. back in the day the lead was in the fuel because the octane was lower (i believe) and lead basically can take the place of octane to a point, and older cars didnt have hardened valve seats. newer cars do of course, so the leaded fuel isn't needed anymore. unless you're boosting the crap out of your car.
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Old 05-27-2007, 04:30 AM
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as juhanis implied, lead is also a lubricant. So between that and the anti-knock properties it's pretty good stuff.

Apart from the potential for lead poisoning, that is
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead_Po...iological_role
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Old 05-27-2007, 05:27 AM
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I've heard that lead was added to do something with the valves too? Valveguide lube? Maybe it was a conspiracy for population control?
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