BEGi-S w/ GT2860RS + Divorced DP
#1
BEGi-S w/ GT2860RS + Divorced DP
I was always drawn to the Greddy because you could spend x-amount of dollars, bolt on and go, and upgrade as desired. What I didn't like about the Greddy was every single part in the kit. Enter the BEGi-S. This thing is like a dream. It's customizable from the get-go and is totally forward compatible as far as you want to go. It's inexpensive and comes with everything you need to get going with the turbo.
Well I want to start off with my dead stock Miata, with my MS from Brain and the default 1.6L maps he gave me, bolt the BEGi-S on and go. I want to do the fuel, intercooler and etc. later after I've had some fun with the money I've already spent. Catch is I want the GT2860RS option from the get-go, along with the divorced DP and a bypass valve. I'll have the BEGi AFPR and total control over timing so I should be able to get a safe tune out of it. I figure BEGi wouldn't sell the kit with that turbo if it wasn't workable.
Can anyone see any potential issues?
Well I want to start off with my dead stock Miata, with my MS from Brain and the default 1.6L maps he gave me, bolt the BEGi-S on and go. I want to do the fuel, intercooler and etc. later after I've had some fun with the money I've already spent. Catch is I want the GT2860RS option from the get-go, along with the divorced DP and a bypass valve. I'll have the BEGi AFPR and total control over timing so I should be able to get a safe tune out of it. I figure BEGi wouldn't sell the kit with that turbo if it wasn't workable.
Can anyone see any potential issues?
#6
I agree, and that'd be the eventual plan.
But I also subscribe to the philosophy of changing as few things at a time as possible. The MS is supposed to run like stock. The BEGi-S is supposed to run on a stock car. It makes sense to me that I'd get the turbo kit working like it should on a stock car and upgrade like I would if I didn't already have the MS. I like to take things slow and get things working well and then upgrade one thing, get that working well, and etc.
But I also subscribe to the philosophy of changing as few things at a time as possible. The MS is supposed to run like stock. The BEGi-S is supposed to run on a stock car. It makes sense to me that I'd get the turbo kit working like it should on a stock car and upgrade like I would if I didn't already have the MS. I like to take things slow and get things working well and then upgrade one thing, get that working well, and etc.
#7
IMHO that is a very complicated approach you are taking. Start with larger injector and a megasquirt before you install any turbo or perform any other modification. That will be taking it slow and properly. The other way around will just cause you unnecessary complication when you try to tune your fuel curve to compensate for the increasing fuel pressure.
#8
Boost Czar
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yeah but the FMU is a band-aid, why limit yourself in the fueling department if you don't have to....you'll eventually sell the FMU for a fraction of the original cost and end up with larger injectors anyway. Get it running good now with 460cc injectors then once the turbo goes on, you'd only have to tune the boosted rows....
#9
Boost Pope
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Do the MS first, with the new injectors. Get the non-boosted parts of the table reasonably sorted out- you don't have to book dyno time for this, just some patience and a laptop. Once you're comfortable with that, plop the turbo on.
#10
I respect your approach, alot of us here started with AFPR's, The BEGI AFPR is a great unit.
You'll want to add a WBO2 once you start to tune outside of 14.7:1 w/ the MS.
Also the AFPR works best with an O2 clamp to trick the stock ECU into thinking its still running stoich (or a tad lean)under boost. Esp w/ the later models that stay in closed loop longer (not sure of your yr though).
I'm not sure if you want to trick the MS O2 sensor signal, it's a little smarter than the miata ECU, and might cut out...Has anyone tried it???
You'll want to add a WBO2 once you start to tune outside of 14.7:1 w/ the MS.
Also the AFPR works best with an O2 clamp to trick the stock ECU into thinking its still running stoich (or a tad lean)under boost. Esp w/ the later models that stay in closed loop longer (not sure of your yr though).
I'm not sure if you want to trick the MS O2 sensor signal, it's a little smarter than the miata ECU, and might cut out...Has anyone tried it???
#11
Never thought of getting the bigger injectors first and tuning the car without boost.
I've been away for awhile. I started messing around with aquariums and haven't had much time for cars, my head's not in it. I haven't even installed the MS yet. Weather is getting nicer though so it's time for cars and motorcycles again.
I've been away for awhile. I started messing around with aquariums and haven't had much time for cars, my head's not in it. I haven't even installed the MS yet. Weather is getting nicer though so it's time for cars and motorcycles again.
#14
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IMHO that is a very complicated approach you are taking. Start with larger injector and a megasquirt before you install any turbo or perform any other modification. That will be taking it slow and properly. The other way around will just cause you unnecessary complication when you try to tune your fuel curve to compensate for the increasing fuel pressure.
When you want to crank up the boost, get bigger injectors. I have a set of RX-7 550cc injectors, cleaned and tested by witch hunter, ready to go for when I want to increase boost above that. Bought used and cleaned all for less than $150.
Simply put, take the time and money you would put into the AFPR and put it towards the MS instead.
Last edited by ZX-Tex; 03-04-2008 at 05:36 PM.
#18
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*Disclosure* I only skimmed through the thread, but it's long, I'm sick, and frankly I don't give a damn
Now, here's my $.02
If you think you need a 2860, you need to take a serious look at the 2871r. It's going to spool the same, but be more efficient up top.
Now, here's my $.02
If you think you need a 2860, you need to take a serious look at the 2871r. It's going to spool the same, but be more efficient up top.
#20
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think we'd need to define which 2871 vs which 3071, but in general I'd expect the 2871 to spool about 400 rpm sooner. Also, you'd need to define your goals. The 2871 would be pleasant on the street, but if it's a track only car that's always at high engine speeds, then the 3071 would be the ticket...