Installation of one of the first BEGi NC Turbo Kits
05-30-2009, 01:59 AM
#1
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Installation of one of the first BEGi NC Turbo Kits
One of the ATL guys purchased a BEGi turbo kit for his '06, and installation has commenced. If I was informed correctly, it's the first kit that BEGi has sold, the other 2 are in Texas and were test kits.
Anyway, as of today, we have the manifold/turbo and intercooler installed. Doesn't sound like much, but since we're basically blazing a trail here, some things required some modifying and some things could not be done by the rough draft installation manual, which we were asked to help contribute to with what we've found to work. And there were a few small issues that just took time to resolve which is the case with any install.
Overall, it's a very nice kit, definitely to par with BEGi quality and workmanship. NC's don't have a lot of room to work with and it's just odd with the manifolds on the wrong side of the car. lol
This kit is going to be Xede controlled, has a GT2860RS turbo, and an Enthuza 3" exhaust from the downpipe back (already installed, very very nice!) with dual Magnaflow mufflers, nice to have Jason basically in the backyard to make us new stuff.
Our main recommendations as of today are for the kit to be sent with the turbo preassembled to the manifold, smaller locking nuts for the turbo/manifold 10mm studs (Tim mentioned switching to this when we spoke today), and checking the clearance between the compressor housing and the motor mount stud (it touched ever so slightly, even after adjusting/checking the clocking of the compressor, a light hit with a Dremel took care of that though since there are no threads at the top of the stud).
We found that disconnecting the one nut on the passenger side motor mount stud and jacking the engine up allowed us to slip the turbo/manifold assembly into place without issue (thus the recommendation of sending it as a unit, also because it was somewhat difficult to assemble due to the 17mm locking nuts), any larger turbo would probably be more of a hassle due to the web of brake lines in that area. After getting the manifold/turbo into place, one person operated the jack and lowered the engine while the other threaded the nut back onto the engine mount stud as everything came down.
Some quick pics to show it off:
Tucked way in there:
Just the manifold:
The offending motor mount stud (hard to see, but already clearanced):
View from the wheel well:
The intercooler:
Enthuza 3" Duals:
Battery relocation:
And last but not least, the help, worn out from a long day of helping (retrieve the tennis ***** that is):
Work to commence again in a few hours.
Anyway, as of today, we have the manifold/turbo and intercooler installed. Doesn't sound like much, but since we're basically blazing a trail here, some things required some modifying and some things could not be done by the rough draft installation manual, which we were asked to help contribute to with what we've found to work. And there were a few small issues that just took time to resolve which is the case with any install.
Overall, it's a very nice kit, definitely to par with BEGi quality and workmanship. NC's don't have a lot of room to work with and it's just odd with the manifolds on the wrong side of the car. lol
This kit is going to be Xede controlled, has a GT2860RS turbo, and an Enthuza 3" exhaust from the downpipe back (already installed, very very nice!) with dual Magnaflow mufflers, nice to have Jason basically in the backyard to make us new stuff.
Our main recommendations as of today are for the kit to be sent with the turbo preassembled to the manifold, smaller locking nuts for the turbo/manifold 10mm studs (Tim mentioned switching to this when we spoke today), and checking the clearance between the compressor housing and the motor mount stud (it touched ever so slightly, even after adjusting/checking the clocking of the compressor, a light hit with a Dremel took care of that though since there are no threads at the top of the stud).
We found that disconnecting the one nut on the passenger side motor mount stud and jacking the engine up allowed us to slip the turbo/manifold assembly into place without issue (thus the recommendation of sending it as a unit, also because it was somewhat difficult to assemble due to the 17mm locking nuts), any larger turbo would probably be more of a hassle due to the web of brake lines in that area. After getting the manifold/turbo into place, one person operated the jack and lowered the engine while the other threaded the nut back onto the engine mount stud as everything came down.
Some quick pics to show it off:
Tucked way in there:
Just the manifold:
The offending motor mount stud (hard to see, but already clearanced):
View from the wheel well:
The intercooler:
Enthuza 3" Duals:
Battery relocation:
And last but not least, the help, worn out from a long day of helping (retrieve the tennis ***** that is):
Work to commence again in a few hours.
Last edited by RotorNutFD3S; 05-30-2009 at 02:35 AM.
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05-30-2009, 09:42 AM
#3
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i guess I haven't been following the NC turbo development since they were ***-mount. this is a nice looking setup. that manifold looks like it doesn't make many compromises to fit. pretty sweet.
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05-30-2009, 04:38 PM
#5
That exhaust is teh sex!
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05-30-2009, 05:48 PM
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Damn that is all very tight in there. Hope nothing rubs/melts/burns over prolonged use. Other than that a track turbo NC will seriously rock. Just saw pics of the gen 3.5 today and that car is only very slightly heavier than an NA.
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05-31-2009, 01:38 AM
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It is definitely all a tight fit, but fortunately the clearances are all good. There are also quite a few heatshields, everything should be very well protected from heat.
Made some more progress today...
Coolant reservoir relocated:
Mocked up all the intercooler pipes:
Tapped the oil pan in the prescribed location (really not sure about this since it's in the oil level and not above it, but that's what the instructions said to do... We'll see.) :
Routed the feed line from the tee at the oil filter (driver's side of the car), but instead of going under the engine and securing to the subframe brace, we decided to slide a thick lenth of 5/8" hose over the braided line and run it up over the tranmission. Still enough play and space so should be no problems:
Made some more progress today...
Coolant reservoir relocated:
Mocked up all the intercooler pipes:
Tapped the oil pan in the prescribed location (really not sure about this since it's in the oil level and not above it, but that's what the instructions said to do... We'll see.) :
Routed the feed line from the tee at the oil filter (driver's side of the car), but instead of going under the engine and securing to the subframe brace, we decided to slide a thick lenth of 5/8" hose over the braided line and run it up over the tranmission. Still enough play and space so should be no problems:
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05-31-2009, 10:18 PM
#15
I haven't heard of anybody reaching the limits of the NC motor... but the MZR isn't just sold in the NC. I don't know what the internal differences are in the other Mazda models and their power handling.
In the MS3/MS6, guys get up into the 330-350whp range and things start breaking.
In the MS3/MS6, guys get up into the 330-350whp range and things start breaking.
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05-31-2009, 10:28 PM
#16
One of the scary things about the MZR engine is that they don't have keyways in the crank or cams, nor are they press fit. Basically all you do is loosen the crank or cam bolts and its free wheelin' time. There have been a few "slipped" cam timing issues around, and unfortunately these engines are interference fit.
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05-31-2009, 11:20 PM
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One of the scary things about the MZR engine is that they don't have keyways in the crank or cams, nor are they press fit. Basically all you do is loosen the crank or cam bolts and its free wheelin' time. There have been a few "slipped" cam timing issues around, and unfortunately these engines are interference fit.
Eric: nice work my man!
What whp do you guys expect to get?
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05-31-2009, 11:37 PM
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One of the scary things about the MZR engine is that they don't have keyways in the crank or cams, nor are they press fit. Basically all you do is loosen the crank or cam bolts and its free wheelin' time. There have been a few "slipped" cam timing issues around, and unfortunately these engines are interference fit.
Thank you sir. I love doing this stuff!
BEGi made 268 whp and 212 ft-lbs at 8psi with the same setup down to the exhaust made by Enthuza. If the way he talks is any indication, he's going to run 12psi and see what it can do.
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06-01-2009, 05:03 PM
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If the motor blows, I will have one with the forged internals waiting to go.
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