Harv

iTrader: (4)

Been lurking for a bit since I got hold of this kit.

Okay, first question.

I bought the kit used. It was packed a bit hastily. So, the turbo has some bolts that come from the outlet side. One of them is bent. See pic below.

http://www.ihatethissite.com/images/...turbo-bolt.jpg

Now, I assume that bolt can that be replaced? I think the original owner mentioned replacing them originally with higher quality bolts. How is it attached in there? Sorry if this seems pathetically lame to be asking.

The other question I had was, should I put this on first and then get the Stripes intercooler setup? I was thinking of just getting the intercooler and doing it all at once, but then I also thought that if something for some reason say the turbo doesn't work and I have to fix it/replace it then I'd rather not have spent the money on the intercooler. So, I guess the question is, will it make it a lot harder to install the IC if I don't do it at the same time as the turbo? Now that I write this it seems like another dumb question.

Oh and one more thing since I'm asking questions. I need to get an oil return line (I guess the one the seller was using wasn't that great after 11k miles) and a filter for the intake. What/where should I get those? Also, I talked with a fellow who had plumbed a new outlet from his oil pan on the opposite side because he thought the oil return line setup was a bit haphazard with the stock setup. Is he just being overcautious or should I look into this option?

Thanks for any help.

dedoky

Post about bolts here

Cant really answer your question but I do have stripes kit on order now and after installing the base greddy kit I dont think it would be any harder to do the intercooler after. I'll find out for sure in about a week.

I do know though that no intercooler =

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

should be M8s, just unscrew them and bolt up some better ones....those seem a bit long anyways...

Mach929

iTrader: (3)

yeah i don't know what those bolts are, they're very long. i'd do the intercooler setup all at once along with a bov, probably add about an hour of extra time if that

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Installing the kit now will make it no more difficult to install the complete IC setup later.
Read the DIY FAQ on how to drill and tap your pan for an oil drain on the exhaust side of the oil pan, buy high temp silicone or steel braided teflon for that drain line.
You can get more hardware at Ace Hardware, make sure it is atleast grade 8 or better.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

Okay, I'll give a go at changing out those bolts. So M8s and grade 8 or better.

I was thinking I'd just get everything together that I would want on the car (within reason) before trying to put things together. The IC setup seems pretty straightforward when you get the pipes from Stripes.

I'll definitely look to get some sort of BOV, though I noticed BEGI sells an anti-surge valve for $55. I'm not a huge fan of the blowoff valve sound, so I was considering getting that instead.

The other thing I need to get is a new air filter as that was used up. Probably need some sort of heat shield for the turbo and for the airbox I'd imagine. I think there was a heat blanket of some sort sent with the kit, I guess that goes around the turbo.

I do have power steering and AC so it sounds like it might be difficult to drill the oil pan. I might just end up getting a high quality hose and use the standard attachment.

miatamania

iTrader: (9)

Check into getting a bosch valve and running recirculation.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

yeah the studs on the exhaust should be 8mm x 25mm....

https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...3&d=1109982948

Exhondaman

Seeing that the PO didnt really care much for packing, I highly doubt he cared for the engine and turbo also. I'd get a rebuild kit and rebuild the turbo, or else you'd just end up taking it off after a month or so, like I did.

With that said, there's nothing wrong with slapping the stock kit on then adding the IC stuff afterwards. You will learn alot about your car and "butt-tuning" along the way. My IC kit is still sitting in the garage awaiting my turbo rebuild. What are you using for timing control?

As for the oil return line, remember that there's more people running the stock location then drilling the oil pan, depends on your application and how ---- you are.

The rest of your questions are all answered in the FAQs and using the search feature. Good luck!

Harv

iTrader: (4)

Good info! Thanks. I will look to pick some replacements up at Lowes or Home Despot. I guess I was just weirded out by how they are attached to the turbo itself. If they just unscrew then that should be no problem. It seems like there are just holes on the opposite side of the bolts so I was kinda wondering how they would end up coming out.

Yeah, actually my cousin was the one who packed it. I think the guy who owned it actually took decent care of it. My cousin did the best he could, but I think his packing skills need a little work. I can't get too mad at him though as he picked up the thing from the guy for me and got it to me. Overall, most everything seems in decent shape, it's just that one bolt that seems to be bent. The turbo seemed to work it's way through some of the packing and get that one bolt banging up against the side of the box. UPS isn't exactly gentle with this stuff. There doesn't seem to be any problems with the shaft though.

This is why I was looking to try putting it on first though just to make sure everything was functioning properly.

Not sure as yet what I will use for timing control. I was thinking I would eventually get a Bipes as I'm probably not going to have the wherewithal to configure a megasquirt setup. At first I'd probably just adjust the timing down and leave it there.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

1. Take off one of the nuts on another stud
2. Screw the one current on the stud down a bit
3. Screw the second one ontop of that one
4. Tighten the nuts up tight against each other
5. Put a wrench on the first nut (the lowest one on the stud) and unscrew the stud from the housing

Harv

iTrader: (4)

These are the sorts of things that would elude me for sure. Thanks.

I've been searching around for information on replacing the stock oil return line. I've seen a lot of posts about replacing the stock return line by tapping the pan on the other side, but I'm having trouble just finding info on what to use if I just want to replace the stock line (wasn't included with the kit).

I do see on that parts list linked to previously that it's a 19mm by 1600mm hose. Where to get that though. I'll keep searching.

One of the guys at our local autocross who has a Greddy kit on his Miata did offer that he had the tools to tap the pan on the opposite side and could help out if I wanted to do that. Of course, I didn't get his number. :(

Harv

iTrader: (4)

I'm over here now checking out the various lines. Not sure which of these would be applicable for replacing the stock line. It seems as if I might need some adapters as well for the ends?

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=OIL

Ben

iTrader: (33)

dude you're replacing the rubber oil return line? go the pepboys and get a long *** section of rubber line and be done.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

Ah, yes. I think I should have remembered someone suggesting that before. I guess I was wondering if I should upgrade the line, but then from what people say the stock line is good enough.

Is there any particular rubber hose I should ask for?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

heater hose, 5/8"

I personally use the high temp silicone from ATP.

MiazdaBLUE

advanced auto should help you out with lines.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

Do you run to the stock location or did you tap the pan on the other side? I'm thinking I should buy about seven feet? Seems like the original hose is a little over 6 feet long.

Yeah, that's what I've got near me. I'll probably hit them up for the line.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

dont run a greddy, yes tapped pan....see my FAQ in the Diy section for pics.

FHS

iTrader: (2)

If you can get all your components together (IC and hardware) before installing your turbo, do it. I guarantee you will have to deal with stock crossover pipe issues that will be a waste of time if you just hang on for a reasonable amount of time to install the IC and BOV along with everything else.

Tap the pan for your return line. Don't give it a second thought. Once you get the hardware together for the intsall, it takes 30 minutes even being overly cautious about measuring and drilling. There's enough information on this site about how to drill and tap that you shouldn't have an issue with it.