Newbsauce

iTrader: (2)

Step 1: Collect Parts
Step 2: Install Parts
Step 3: Troubleshoot
Step 4: Get Bored, Buy More Parts

Viscous cycle, welcome to the club.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

I would like to have everything there so I can do it all at once.

I am giving the pan tapping some second thoughts. I have both AC and PS and I'm seeing indications from other threads that tapping the pan is a bit difficult with both of those.

I prefer the Torsion cycle, more durable!

Yeah, I'm predicting after the turbo, IC stuff, assorted turbo parts, new rear end (have the stock open diff) and then possibly a new clutch if I up the boost I'll be well over $2500 by the time this is all said and done. Well, that's still less than the BEGI or Flyin Miata kits!

FHS

iTrader: (2)

Tapping the pan with AC and PS is still the same procedure. Positioning the drill bit will take more care and time but basically, drill a hole, tap the hole, install the plumbing.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

nope, just as easy.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

I saw that pic linked from your FAQ. Is that JB weld?

Do you guys just drill it out, tap it and then flush the pan with a few quarts of oil to get any shavings out? Or is there some procedure for keeping shavings from going into the pan? The guy I was talking with mentioned something about using some sort of grease while drilling to capture the shavings? I'm sorry if I'm not clear on how it all works. I've never tapped anything in my life.

A friend might be able to help me with the tapping procedure if I decide to go that route.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

see page 11: http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/in...all_turbos.pdf

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

Careful with the bent bolt. There is a good chance that there is some damage to the threads on the turbo. Same exact thing happened to me (the guy was a genius at packing :( ) When I installed the DP in the car for the first time the bolt siezed and snapped (grade 10.9 metric). Once I got the bolt out I ran a tap through and cleaned up the threads.

So, get a tap and run it through the holes before you install the thing. If you get ANY resistance back it out. Don't want to break the tap in there ...

Harv

iTrader: (4)

Good point. I will double check that one. The other two seem good to go, but I'm going to probably get new studs for each one.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

Hmmm, so I need...

drill bit
tap
hose barb

It doesn't look too tough (famous last words). So the benefit is obviously that I don't have to route six feet of hose around the engine bay and risk kinking or other drainage issues.

blue89turbo

So are you guys saying the stock Greddy drain hose is ok to use?
I was going to tap the pan and buy some silicone hose but if i can reuse the stock hose when I tap the pan it would save a few $

What size connector would i need to tap with the greddy hose??

THanks

Harv

iTrader: (4)

I have a friend who is going to help me install the kit. He has done a bunch of different supercharger and turbo installs, but not the Greddy before.

He was thinking that I should upgrade my fuel pump. From reading the FAQ if I don't upgrade my 1.6 injectors and am running the Vortech FMU this is probably the right thing to do isn't it? Would I need to change the Vortech? I've heard of having to use different disks in it to adjust the ratios? I should probably search on the thing.

I was thinking the 190hp pump if anything.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

out of the box you dont need to change anything. if you add an intercooler and up the boost, then consider it, only if you need more than 75psi of fuel in the rail.

Slidin'Miata916

iTrader: (-1)

Before you put it on, I would suggest a simple compression test on your motor and check for leaky oil around your block.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

Well, I've got the Stripes IC, but I wasn't planning on boosting past stock initially because of the stock clutch I've got in there. The pump isn't that much dough though, but if I install it would I need to get a different disk for the Vortech?

Did a compression test on the car when I bought it which was about 5k ago.

Slidin'Miata916

iTrader: (-1)

Installing should be a breeze. And with the stock kit, I dont think a diff. disc is needed. Unless your in my boat where I have the 1.8 injectors, Im gonna try and get a leaner disc. I think I would be running too rich with the one thats in there now.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

Well, it looks like I will do the install on the 18th and 19th.

So far I have...

- Base Greddy Kit with manifold cuts made
- Stripes IC Pipes
- Flyin Miata heat shield
- Upgraded hoses for Greddy kit
- Upgraded bolts for Greddy kit (actually will get those when I get the bolts and stuff for the Stripes pipes, which I should probably get this weekend)
- 190HP fuel pump

Right now my intent is to install and tune for 5psi of boost initially so I don't think I need to get anything more to do that.

I have been thinking about getting...

- BEGI downpipe
- Anti-surge valve
- BEGI FPR

Maybe instead of going with the FPR I will just switch to Megasquirt PNP, but I'm not sure I have the wherewithal to make it work on my own.