rharris19

iTrader: (41)

When I first started wanting to do this, I couldn’t find anything with pictures on it. I know I am a picture person and I know there are others who are too. With great instruction by brgracer, who was a very nice guy, I figured it out but wanted to take some pictures for everyone else to use.

First things first, you have to have the right tools because they make all the difference. I got these c clamp pliers from harbor freight for about $4.00 and they make it light work. If you can get the ones with the tips that angle in 90 degrees like mine, it makes it even easier, but you can do it with regular c clamp pliers. Picture 1 & 2

Also, depending on how long you have had the turbo, the c clamp may be frozen and not want to move. If this happens, spray some PB parts blaster on the ring and try it again in a couple minutes. Picture 3

Depending on how much you clock the turbo you will have to remove the oil return line. More than likely you will have to remove it. The bolts are 10mm. If you do then you need to get a new return kit that lets you position the direction of the return line wherever you want. This is what I am doing. If you get this kit just go to home depot and get a 3/8” copper fitting to put on it to exit where you want. There was a post a couple days ago about getting these on here. https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=6039
Picture 4 shows how the return gets in the way and 5 shows it off the turbo.

Remove the wastegate arm from the inlet side of the turbo. Picture 6

Ok to clock the turbo take the c clamp pliers that you got and compress the ring around the inlet side. When you have it compressed you can freely move it to wherever you want it to be. It is helpful to have a friend hold the c clamp so that you position it so that you can get it exactly where you want it, but it is not necessary. Picture 7 shows the c clamp close up and 8 shows it after it is clocked straight down.

Finally you will have to make a new bracket to hold the wastegate arm in the right spot. This is pretty easy to do with just some scrap metal. It doesn’t take very long just a lot of trial fitments. Picture 9 shows how the wastegate will not mount without modification. Picture 10 shows the bracket i made. Picture 11 shows how my new bracket mates up with he turbo and how the wastegate will mount up to it. Picture 12 shows the wastegate mounted on the new bracket.

All i have left to do is my oil return line but that will be pretty easy once i get the flange in. Hopefully this helps clean up a lot of the engine bay on that side and eliminates some piping, which is always good. If you see anything wrong with this or just want to chime in with your own advice, please feel free to. Thanks to all that helped me, especially brgracer.

rharris19

iTrader: (41)

Pictures 6-10

rharris19

iTrader: (41)

Pictures 11-12

kotomile

iTrader: (24)

Nice writeup, is this possible on-car?

turbored

yes it is possible on car. also, you can clock it down without removing the oil return. I had it pointed down at about 5 o'clock, and that allowed me to not make a new bracket for the wastegate actuator.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Nice writeup. I clocked mine while it was on the car, though it's not internally gated so I didn't have to worry about mounting the actuator again.

kotomile

iTrader: (24)

I'm more curious about clocking it up myself, I wonder how that might turn out..

turbored

gonna run without a hood or notch your hood for the piping?

rharris19

iTrader: (41)

Thanks for clarifying all that turbored. it's definately doable with the turbo installed, but i just wanted to clock it straight down so that i could get the most out of the way and make it easier when i rerun my pipes. Thanks for the praise, just trying to help everyone out. i have gotten alot from this forum and i just wanted to give back alittle

kotomile

iTrader: (24)

lol, no

I'm thinking more like welding a 90* elbow onto the compressor and running 2" piping over the radiator. Maybe some clearancing of the hood but no notching.

jojonz

At the risk of sounding dumb, does clocking the turbo help with routing the IC pipes?

turbored

yes.

kotomile

iTrader: (24)

Yep. The compressor is pointed toward the DS fender when you get the kit, by clocking it you can run shorter, more direct piping to the intercooler.

zoom2zoom

iTrader: (5)

very good writeup.

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

nice writeup. I personally used the broomstick method on my gt2554r.

rharris19

iTrader: (41)

Yeah it helps with shorted pipes which is the main reason why i did it but the other great benefit is that it cleared up that whole area next to the turbo. Now i can make a seperated little area to put my air filter in that only gets cold air from my turn signal intake. Thanks agian for the praise.

jojonz

Yeah, Thanks for the great write-up!
Doing my first Greddy+IC in January, and this clocking really seems like the way to go.
Would be great to see an installed pic when you have done the IC routing.

Uncle Arthur

I'm running a TDO4 and I'm amazed at just how easy the whole thing is to dismantle and clock - both at the compressor end and turbine end.

Just undo the locking ring, and tap it off and you can rotate the bearing housing, and undo the circlip at the back of the compressor, and drill out the little locating pin, and there's the compressor end done too.....

lwindridge

Does anyone who's run their intercooler pipes down and forward have any decent pics?
I'm looking at doing the same but want to make sure my PAS pump and piping doesn't get in the way while doing it!

lwindridge

Well I finally got around to clocking the turbo and repiping the **** ****, er kit.
Just got to make a proper bracket for the actuator and I'll be happy with the turbo side, having one of Stripes intake pipes made up for the throttle side

Here's some pics anyway...