Boris

iTrader: (1)

You want to buy all them fancy, expensive parts and throw them into a 1.6 block ??
Spend the extra $200 and get a 1.8.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Exactly what 2.0 are you talking about?

dieselmiata

iTrader: (3)

Have you seen my car?

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

That's different though. You're a hobbiest and that's your car. You didn't pay a pro to build it.

This is a guy taking money to build this thing. This thread is a result.

c4boom

First off I totally agree on the 1.8 swap thing and he didn't want to. Not my choice. if it was mine i would swap a 2.0l by stroking out a 1.8 not the 2.0 from the newer chassis. lesson is just because you know some thing is better doesn't mean the costumer will let you do it.it is their call in the end

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

You do know that the 2.0 from the NC miata has as much similarity to the 1.6 as much as a dog does to a monkey right?

c4boom

yes I do and if you read what I said I specifically said not the 2.0 from the newer chassis (NC chassis) I say I would stroke the 1.8 to make it a 2.0 thus fitting well and not having to figure out all the wiring and mounts for the NC

vitamin j

iTrader: (5)

just take the 1.6 out and put a 5.8 in i know the 1.8 is easiest and 2.0 is best but 5+ is the way to go for sure not as sensitive and also not small (miatas have small engines haha) other than than you could do a 3.2 or maybe a 3.6 also i've heard some 2.5 are good and also 6+ but probably the best is 1.6 if the customer wants it then you can supercharge it then no lag = faster than 5.8 easy

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

The 1.6 and 1.8 have forged crankshafts from the factory and will not fail. The 1.6 head doesn't flow like the 1.8 and it is obviously missing a little displacement. Both use the same rods. Aftermarket forged rods are necessary for your goals. 949Racing has the forged rods for a good price.

You will likely also want to upgrade to forged pistons and pick up other necessary drivetrain parts from 949Racing while you are there.

The oil pumps are a weak spot and should be upgraded to a Boundary Engineering billet pump for the horsepower level you desire.

A 2560 may get there if you do everything just right but likely not. A 2860RS will get there easier but may be a little laggier to get spooled. A Borg Warner EFR series will take advantage of technological advancements made in the last 15 years that the 2560 is lacking, and will give you better power with less lag. But it is pricey.

Get some 1000cc injectors and have Abe at Artech or ABSURDflow build you a really strong and efficient manifold and downpipe. Our engines have vibration/harmonics issues that tend to break manifolds of lesser build quality. You won't likely make that power level with a log style manifold at all, so it will need to be engineered and fabricated.

Consider using the MS3 Basic from MS Labs as a good standalone ECU for the Miata. They are listed in the vendor section here.

The 1.6 cars have smaller brakes, clutches, weak differentials, lack a TPS, and have a few other issues to overcome. You will want to do a coolant re-route on either the 1.6 or 1.8. If you don't know what that is, you have some reading to do before embarking on this project.

I would seriously consider reading build threads on this forum to see what has been a success and failure for others in the past in reaching for similar goals. We have a large volume of useful info for you already chronicled here.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Hahahahah this gets better and better. We started with 300whp on a 1.6 and not knowing anything about turbos, and now we're stroking BPs?


And it's NOT their call in the end. You're perfectly able to refuse business for the better of everyone involved. "No, sorry, your ideas are retarded and i don't want to be held responsible for your ignorance. In addition, i'm not comfortable in my knowledge enough to be able to do this job without asking for inputs from non-professionals every step of the way."

18psi

iTrader: (76)

My favorite part is he starts off with "my buddy" then goes on to say "the customer".

Apparently some people don't even have the brainpower to bs properly.

Such a sad world we live in.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

I have customers who are buddies.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

What boggles my mind is that this guy is getting PAID to do this, yet he comes here expecting us to regurgitate all sorts of information that has been discussed here ad nauseum, FOR FREE, because he "doesn't have time to search."

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Wonder if he'd pay us for our work/knowledge if we're to help him.

c4boom

ha ha funny every one judge the new guys skills. I have rebuilt a few 1.6s and a 1.8 just never turbocharged one. If you stop judging and start reading. All I have asked in this post is whats the failure point of the motor and what kit is suggested due to I do not know the quality of them and what turbo because I don't know how lag sensitive it is due to it has allot to do with the exhaust ports cam profile and timing the size is a good part but not all. For the people that helped and productive thank you very much.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

You'd have to pretty much TRY to NOT find that information, quite honestly.

NW Bill

Since you are asking about a kit, you might get some ideas for what to use with a 1.6l by looking at these kits, especially the "no electronics" versions: BEGi - Pages and Flyin' Miata : Turbos : 1999-05, as well as the 1.6l build threads on this site.

Bill