New Turbo Kit in the works.
#101
It's the logo for the new Mustang targeted at aging boomers. It encapsulates the essence of speed and acceleration by drawing upon the demographic's collective experience with spicy Mexican food and rectal dysfunction.
In academic circles this is referred to as the Habenero Hemorrhoid Paradigm.
It also signals to this great generation that after decades of success the Mustang has finally "come of age". No sir, this isn't your father's mustang. This 'stang's for you, Gramps!
To help alleviate any lingering memories of discomfort the New Mustang is equipped with a soothing Preparation-H air freshener.
In academic circles this is referred to as the Habenero Hemorrhoid Paradigm.
It also signals to this great generation that after decades of success the Mustang has finally "come of age". No sir, this isn't your father's mustang. This 'stang's for you, Gramps!
To help alleviate any lingering memories of discomfort the New Mustang is equipped with a soothing Preparation-H air freshener.
buck
#102
Hey guys just posting an update. Got the 1.8 flange design finalized and the first set is supposed to be cut out and machined this week. Here is what it looks like rendered in 3D CAD software:
MiataTurboFlangeFinal.jpg
Notice the transition from the oval port shape to the circular shape of the manifold tubing.
MiataTurboFlangeTopView.jpg
Heres the face view, just for another look at the details.
More details, and pictures of the actual flanges later this week.
MiataTurboFlangeFinal.jpg
Notice the transition from the oval port shape to the circular shape of the manifold tubing.
MiataTurboFlangeTopView.jpg
Heres the face view, just for another look at the details.
More details, and pictures of the actual flanges later this week.
Last edited by jc_rotor; 09-22-2008 at 04:31 PM.
#103
That oval-to-round transition in the flange is way too abrupt. You're better off just oversizing the ports in the flange. That way you can form a nice gradual transition in the primary tubes themselves (just squish the ends of them gently in a vise). Then slip the primary tubes into the oversized ports in the flange and weld them on the inside and out.
This way, the flange can easily be lasered or water-jetted and will be cheaper, and the joints from flange to primary tubes will be stronger and less likely to warp during fab.
This way, the flange can easily be lasered or water-jetted and will be cheaper, and the joints from flange to primary tubes will be stronger and less likely to warp during fab.
#104
that oval-to-round transition in the flange is way too abrupt. You're better off just oversizing the ports in the flange. That way you can form a nice gradual transition in the primary tubes themselves (just squish the ends of them gently in a vise). Then slip the primary tubes into the oversized ports in the flange and weld them on the inside and out.
This way, the flange can easily be lasered or water-jetted and will be cheaper, and the joints from flange to primary tubes will be stronger and less likely to warp during fab.
This way, the flange can easily be lasered or water-jetted and will be cheaper, and the joints from flange to primary tubes will be stronger and less likely to warp during fab.
#105
That oval-to-round transition in the flange is way too abrupt. You're better off just oversizing the ports in the flange. That way you can form a nice gradual transition in the primary tubes themselves (just squish the ends of them gently in a vise). Then slip the primary tubes into the oversized ports in the flange and weld them on the inside and out.
This way, the flange can easily be lasered or water-jetted and will be cheaper, and the joints from flange to primary tubes will be stronger and less likely to warp during fab.
This way, the flange can easily be lasered or water-jetted and will be cheaper, and the joints from flange to primary tubes will be stronger and less likely to warp during fab.
I agree that it doesnt look that smooth, but once all the pieces are in place it makes for a very nice fit and smooth transition. See integra manifold below:
09-18-08_1035.jpg
09-18-08_1034.jpg
Thanks for the advice though, Pat mentioned a smoother port opening so I may play around with that too, and see which one works better.
And youre right, the main thing is keeping it economical, so the feature may be deleted altogether. Wont know until I get my hands on one later this week.
#107
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squeeze the tubes! I'm sure you can make a fancy fixture that sits in a hydraulic press to do it. then you can make the counterbores ovalized like the ports and the tubes will be your transition.
#114
- Simpler
- Cheaper
- Faster
- Prettier
- Less transitioning
- Flows better
#115
Well, honestly i dont think it makes that much difference in flow. You have to remember which way the gases are flowing here. They are coming out of a relatively small diameter port compared to the 1 1/2 ID of the SS piping.
Plus like i said, ovalizing the primaries will create stress points in the form. If you take this O and turn it into () this, then the sides that have a smaller radius will have pre stress from the pressing, forming, and whatnot. And which form do you think is better for flow? Crush a drinking straw and blow through it and youll see what i mean. The ID of the tubing is very close to the extents of the ports and after its welded on the outside, the inside can be ported to match the size and you have no restriction, plus you have the knowledge that its not going to crack on the first heat cycle. This has to be a reliable manifold.
Plus like i said, ovalizing the primaries will create stress points in the form. If you take this O and turn it into () this, then the sides that have a smaller radius will have pre stress from the pressing, forming, and whatnot. And which form do you think is better for flow? Crush a drinking straw and blow through it and youll see what i mean. The ID of the tubing is very close to the extents of the ports and after its welded on the outside, the inside can be ported to match the size and you have no restriction, plus you have the knowledge that its not going to crack on the first heat cycle. This has to be a reliable manifold.
#116
Well I don't think crushing the pipe a little bit is gonna hurt it, at least not mild steel. I've never seen or heard of one cracking from it being crushed, have you? Heat cycle it afterwards if you are worried about it. If for some reason I could not crush the pipes, I would just weld them right to a regular flange. It would flow about the same as your tapered one and be a lot faster and cheaper to produce.
Somebody with time, fab skills, and some common sense needs to man up and start making decent affordable manifolds. There's not much market for a $700 manifold. That's all I'm saying. It's not like their are a slew of $600 heavy duty tubular manifolds available from 14 different vendors and yours for 700 is worth the jump in price. Not like they all use steel crushed pipes and the manifolds break in half within an week, or the inferior mild steel welds are just cracking left and right. Not like your 700 dollar one is gonna corner some market. If you made ANYTHING that was a mild steel regular length 4:1 turbo manifold that accepted a t25 or t3 turbo for 500ish bucks you would sell the hell out of them. Who's gonna buy an ETD shorty manifold for 500 when they can get the full length one that flows better and makes more power for the same price? ETD claims they've sold hundreds of their shorty manifolds...
Somebody with time, fab skills, and some common sense needs to man up and start making decent affordable manifolds. There's not much market for a $700 manifold. That's all I'm saying. It's not like their are a slew of $600 heavy duty tubular manifolds available from 14 different vendors and yours for 700 is worth the jump in price. Not like they all use steel crushed pipes and the manifolds break in half within an week, or the inferior mild steel welds are just cracking left and right. Not like your 700 dollar one is gonna corner some market. If you made ANYTHING that was a mild steel regular length 4:1 turbo manifold that accepted a t25 or t3 turbo for 500ish bucks you would sell the hell out of them. Who's gonna buy an ETD shorty manifold for 500 when they can get the full length one that flows better and makes more power for the same price? ETD claims they've sold hundreds of their shorty manifolds...
#118
^Absofuckinglutely.
FM/BEGi/ETD/HKS/JGS... is anybody else making production manifolds?
So that's 5 total and HKS really does't count and Greddy isn't a factor? Competition is good for the consumer... but 4 real options just aren't enough. Tim might be #5 someday...
Within the next 6months, I'll be building an NB turbo in some form or another... right now it looks like I'm back to the cast BEGi unit for absolute reliability and ease of install. I wish I had more choices.
FM/BEGi/ETD/HKS/JGS... is anybody else making production manifolds?
So that's 5 total and HKS really does't count and Greddy isn't a factor? Competition is good for the consumer... but 4 real options just aren't enough. Tim might be #5 someday...
Within the next 6months, I'll be building an NB turbo in some form or another... right now it looks like I'm back to the cast BEGi unit for absolute reliability and ease of install. I wish I had more choices.
#119
I do not do this for a living. I work in the field of Mechanical Design but not always with turbocharging. I design things like this for my job all the time but most of the time I have a team of designers that I collaborate with.
So I dont have extensive experience with designing turbo manifolds but the people at Top Speed that do this 6 days a week, 48 weeks a year do. Im taking my knowledge and applying it to the real world with the help of the guys there at the shop. It was per their suggestion all the design changes in the flange.
I know it doesnt always pan out exactly how its planned on paper but in my experience it gets pretty damn close.