Over heating when boosting
08-03-2010, 11:07 AM
#21
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Poughkeepsie NY
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Im running 5 psi but i havent boost til redline yet because of this problem i think the boost creeps up to 10 but ill deal with that problem once i figure out this cooling issue.
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08-03-2010, 11:12 AM
#22
The coolant hose that was removed was a hard metal line that travels underneath the turbo manifold, do you know the name of this piece so i can purchase it? Im Poughkeepsie NY, your right i shouldnt assume that everyone know what the tristate area mean.... its not like when you type it in to google the first thing to come up is "The Tri-State Region is commonly used in the area surrounding New York City to refer to the greater metropolitan area, including satellite cities. Roughly speaking, the New York Tri-State area encompasses the populated areas in the states of New Jersey, New York, and Connecticut" But im changing my profile now. And im guessing its not the most functional reroute for the coolant but he works for toyota so what can you expect lol.
-Greg
-Greg
I'm going to now tell you to undo all the stupid **** your "friend" did first, before diagnosing any other problems.
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08-03-2010, 01:08 PM
#24
Parts:
E301-15-287 O-Ring (For metal pipe to mixing manifold connection)
BPE8-15-290 Pipe, Bypass (Metal Pipe)
NA75-61-211 Hose No.1, Water (Head to heater core)
NA75-61-212 Hose No.2, Water (Heater core to metal pipe)
I'm not sure I've ever seen a Toyota Miata, usually they're Mazdas
He doesn't work in throttle pedal design, does he?Edit: P.S., for posterity: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tri-state_area
Last edited by fooger03; 08-03-2010 at 01:32 PM.
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08-03-2010, 02:25 PM
#26
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Fooger thats what it is the pressure broke the radiator cap i ordered the parts from Mazda they will be here thursday! I appreciate the help dudes, i really hope i didn't blow my head gasket i only drove maybe 10 miles while i was testing it.
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08-03-2010, 02:59 PM
#28
Well done on ordering parts. I still have a concern though, because your radiator cap shouldn't be under any unusual pressure if I'm correct...If your radiator IS indeed under unusually high pressure, then you have something blocking coolant passage between your lower radiator hose and your water pump. I would suspecting your mixing manifold in this situation. How exactly did your Toyota friend go about capping the mixing manifold when he removed the metal heater core return pipe?
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08-04-2010, 09:12 PM
#34
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Location: Detroit
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Pressure testing your radiator with a possible head gasket issue is a good way to hydrolock your engine.
Do a leakdown test with the rad cap off and see if you get any bubbles. No need to go crazy with the psi, regulate your feed down to about 20 psi and go from there.
Or...pull the cap off and start the engine. Watch the radiator opening and rev it up. If you get coolant flowing out like a bitch, you've got a bad headgasket.
On another note, you got your kit already?
Do a leakdown test with the rad cap off and see if you get any bubbles. No need to go crazy with the psi, regulate your feed down to about 20 psi and go from there.
Or...pull the cap off and start the engine. Watch the radiator opening and rev it up. If you get coolant flowing out like a bitch, you've got a bad headgasket.
On another note, you got your kit already?
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08-04-2010, 09:21 PM
#35
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I received the kit a week ago, the only thing missing was the tap I order. Im happy with it, I had the hose replaced today and the dealership said its fine. It runs good, does NOT overheat anymore. I still have to get it tuned better....
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