Pics of your hot side intercooler routing please
04-16-2012, 03:07 AM
#1
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Pics of your hot side intercooler routing please
I've been trying to search to see some pictures of how people have routed the tubing from their turbo to their intercooler. Unfortunatly "intercooler" is too popular a term so I'm really having trouble finding any good pictures to check out.
I've got a GReddy kit and a "Stripes" intercooler kit that a friend gave me. He had a similar set up on his car and the hot side off the turbo dropped down in front of the engine then under the sway bar. This won't work on my car because I have a huge hollow RB sway bar plus a RB sway bar brace that effectively block that route.
You can see the top of the white brace in this pic:
Also, will I need to clock my compressor in order to drop down to try to avoid the tangle of power steering lines?
Apologies for the bad iPhone pics
I've got a GReddy kit and a "Stripes" intercooler kit that a friend gave me. He had a similar set up on his car and the hot side off the turbo dropped down in front of the engine then under the sway bar. This won't work on my car because I have a huge hollow RB sway bar plus a RB sway bar brace that effectively block that route.
You can see the top of the white brace in this pic:
Also, will I need to clock my compressor in order to drop down to try to avoid the tangle of power steering lines?
Apologies for the bad iPhone pics
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04-18-2012, 12:00 AM
#7
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The over the radiator stuff looks great and Is probably really resonsive but with my attempt to CARB legal-ish I'd probably sneak past with a less ostentatious routing.
So from what I can see, I be best off clocking the compressor so it the outlet faces straight down and then try to sneak under the power steering lines. Since I eliminated the AC compressor I hopefully will have room.
Braineack - Did you have to reroute any of the power steering lines or did you just remove them so you could get the coupler installed?
So from what I can see, I be best off clocking the compressor so it the outlet faces straight down and then try to sneak under the power steering lines. Since I eliminated the AC compressor I hopefully will have room.
Braineack - Did you have to reroute any of the power steering lines or did you just remove them so you could get the coupler installed?
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04-18-2012, 02:09 AM
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Well, my A/C never worked so I pulled everything out when I had the engine out. I figured it would give me some more room and fewer cooling problems (at least for the engine if not me)
So that last section of pipe goes under the sway bar but it doesn't need to go up again to meet the intercooler? Is the bottom of your intercooler hanging well below your radiator?
Did you have any success modifying your plastic belly pan to accommodate the intercooler piping or did you pull it out? I'm going to try my best to keep it or something to avoid cooling problems on the track.
So that last section of pipe goes under the sway bar but it doesn't need to go up again to meet the intercooler? Is the bottom of your intercooler hanging well below your radiator?
Did you have any success modifying your plastic belly pan to accommodate the intercooler piping or did you pull it out? I'm going to try my best to keep it or something to avoid cooling problems on the track.
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04-19-2012, 01:34 PM
#17
I'll follow to Curly's Greddy top mount with another in similar fashion - difference being I tilted the radiator so I can clear the OEM hood.
If you have any interest in going this route, I can send you the CAD drawings to have your own radiator brackets water jet cut.
-Zach
If you have any interest in going this route, I can send you the CAD drawings to have your own radiator brackets water jet cut.
-Zach
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04-19-2012, 02:38 PM
#18
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If I did it again I'd spend the money on getting some beaded pipes welded on to the Starion intercooler and use the OEM holes rather than cut up my upper radiator panel and a new intercooler.
However, if I knew then what I knew now, I would have gone to my current around the radiator setup and not bothered with the over the rad. It's not a bad setup, but there are some compromises.
However, if I knew then what I knew now, I would have gone to my current around the radiator setup and not bothered with the over the rad. It's not a bad setup, but there are some compromises.
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04-19-2012, 03:05 PM
#19
If I did it again I'd spend the money on getting some beaded pipes welded on to the Starion intercooler and use the OEM holes rather than cut up my upper radiator panel and a new intercooler.
However, if I knew then what I knew now, I would have gone to my current around the radiator setup and not bothered with the over the rad. It's not a bad setup, but there are some compromises.
However, if I knew then what I knew now, I would have gone to my current around the radiator setup and not bothered with the over the rad. It's not a bad setup, but there are some compromises.
I didn't have to cut the hood or the core support, though I did fold the vertical edge in some. I've got .5"+ of clearance from the hood, radiator and core support.
The 3 benefits I've found are, in order of value:
1. It makes building well sealed duct work to the radiator an incredibly easy task.
2. Charge piping is ridiculously short, ~ 4 feet or less.
3. I've got 5 joints in the charge pipes including the turbo outlet and the TB inlet - less points for potential failure (not that t-bolted silicon couplers are exactly high risk).
-Zach
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